Search results

Only the PP has the bonded bushings, as I recall. The base bar is the same size as the PP, but no bonded bushings. The GT350 bar is larger than the base and PP. — Mike

Back your swaybar firmness back one hole. This is better for the street and will give more clearance on turns. If you keep the firmness as is, mount the endlink to the inside of the swaybar. — Mike

The nipple on the Steeda bits is their drawback, but they are still the best quality I used. The encased grease joint kept mine quiet and the steering smooth; the open bearing bits I tried gave a few mm more clearance, but corroded quickly and became worthless. In any event, be sure to use...

Held up great — they actually got better over time. I just sold the Mustang. It’s sad, really, but Hawaiian roads just aren’t sport car friendly and my days of dealing with a firm ride for a great car are over. That said, adjustable dampers are the way to go in your case. Tune them for...

Sold

Sale pending

Up for sale is my 2016 Mustang GT, 6spd manual with the premium and performance packages, that I’ve owned since new. Original purchase at Fort Hood, Texas, and then spent three years in Bavaria, Germany with time on roads in Switzerland, France, Austria, Czech Republic, Italy, and of course the...

If you have poor roads in your area, for sure get the adjustables and dial-back the rebound. If your roads are smooth, the world is your oyster. Most any aftermarket choice with those springs will be good. — Mike

Interesting. Having had the original Pilot Super Sports and now the 4S currently, I hope the 5 and 5s bring the epic feel of the originals and maintain or improve the stick of the 4s. — Mike

The new 2022 — grey with red leather if possible. Right now there’s one in the pipeline I can get grey with black interior. X3 is looking awesome in the ‘22 refresh too; I’m very tempted.

M240i most likely — roads here are pretty bad for a full-on M car; I might even float into an X3 for a while. — Mike

Already working it 🍻🍻. That is brilliant, seriously. I just might if I get jaded enough. Thanks, — Mike

Or, see it from my angle on an island with three separately owned Ford dealers that price gouge, and only one Subaru and BMW dealer that do not. Fact of the matter is BMW and Subaru have their dealers in check, while many Ford dealers go rogue. Good on Grainger; maybe they’ll take my trade...

Interestingly, BMW and Subaru here are priding themselves on not gouging— they are offering cars at MSRP or less. If you drove 700 miles for a good deal, good on you; for me, I don’t go out of my way to spend thousands of dollars. These chaotic times echo for an eternity in my opinion; those...

Nothing for Hawaii that I found. — Mike

Removing all safety bracing, airbags, and so forth is worth a couple to a few hundred pounds. Strip the interior for a few hundred more. Go CF body panels and your there. I wouldn’t recommend pulling airbags, bumper bracing, and crumple-tested panels for an on-road car though. — Mike

Long time Ford and Mustang fan here. I have the Mustangs (4 now), t-shirts, and stock holdings to prove it. I move for the military to Hawaii and find HUGE ADM mark-ups of $5k+ and obscure dealer mark-ups for air conditioning “super-charging” for $2,000. A $695 random mark-up too. I get the...

Agreed. Put a jack under the knuckle and line it up. Par for the course. Great combo on dampers and springs, btw. Enjoy! — Mike

^^^ +1. Get some medium strength locktite and torque those swaybar endlink bolts down— especially the bolts on the bar (as opposed to the strut). Cheap and easy fix to try first. — Mike