Ford Performance Tune for 2018+ GT

[spaz mk will]

Manual here. I’ll caveat my response first by saying I’ve had 1 drive on the tune, maybe 45 minutes in town and a little highway. I did try to experiment with scenarios around the torque peak and in different gears. I have a non-pp so 3.55 rear. Quick thoughts:

More torque feels good, kinda simple. The 40tqs increase is right at cruising speed or so for a given gear/speed limit scenario, which makes it feel far more responsive in traffic etc. 2-6 all feel a little more like 1-5 now at 2k rpm in normal driving conditions which is appreciated. Masks some of the tall 3rd gear problems with the 18+ MT-82.

The computer Doesn’t hold revs nearly as much on clutch-in, making for much smoother quick shifting since the revs fall fast as expected. Maybe my most favorite part of the tune.

Some extra exhaust pops on clutch-in under heavier throttle, at least in sport exhaust (I have active).

I noticed less torque management in 1&2 overall and/or the increase plus flatter curve others have noted is the reason. Either way there, is power and responsiveness below 3500 that just was not there in the standard tune.

Intake noise sounds good (tried some full throttle in quiet mode) and all the DI pump noise/clatter around 2000-2500 is gone with the sound tube delete, im very happy with that because it was annoying and unpleasant to me.

Overall I would say this is probably what the factory tune should be, for PP cars at least. Less for the power, more for the driveability and changes to shifting behavior - I hated the artificial rev hanging that assumed you took 2 seconds to shift at all times. Honestly I didn’t notice the HP change overall, but did get a little more sideways around peak power in 2nd, still on factory 255 A/S though. Mostly feel it all below 4k. The all seasons are even more exposed due to torque which I plan to address soon. Can’t hook well on the base tune let alone now.

As for price/target market/fitment - I did snag this at 951 and installed it myself. Only a few month left on warranty, so whatever. Comparing that to the cost of a CAI, new TB/adapter, and tune, it’s a fair price for something that I didn’t have to think much about. I get that there are higher performing tunes, but for me the DD torque and overall easy solution made sense. Fitment is OK, I had some struggles with the TB to CAI as I mentioned in other posts. Two people would make it better. Hood does seem to poke up maybe 1/4 inch higher on the driver side now at the fascia/hood line. The inlet/snorkel to front bumper is a little tedious but I took my time and got it on snug. I noticed IATs at ~10 or so above ambient on a 62 degree day which is roughly the same as stock. I need to take some more measurements though, worst I saw was maybe 20 during a long stoplight.

So much for quick thoughts, I might get out some over the weekend for some cruising, but nowhere to go really and rainy weather coming.

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[AZ18yote]

I need to look into that. Want to try it. I'll search to see cost and what is all involved.

For 18+ just device and tune. On avg about $500 but can be less or more depending on where and when you do it. If the kit net you about 16whp(estimated as haven't seen any dynod yet), add another 30 at the wheels going e plus more torque down low.

 

[LetItRide1978]

I was checking out the gauges in the ProCal tool today (haven’t done anything with it since flashing the tune) and noticed an error code in the troubleshooting menu. The calibration flashed correctly and the car has been driving normally so I am not sure why it is showing this error. Also, there were no codes before and after the calibration was flashed.

 

[lb18]

Manual here. I’ll caveat my response first by saying I’ve had 1 drive on the tune, maybe 45 minutes in town and a little highway. I did try to experiment with scenarios around the torque peak and in different gears. I have a non-pp so 3.55 rear. Quick thoughts:

More torque feels good, kinda simple. The 40tqs increase is right at cruising speed or so for a given gear/speed limit scenario, which makes it feel far more responsive in traffic etc. 2-6 all feel a little more like 1-5 now at 2k rpm in normal driving conditions which is appreciated. Masks some of the tall 3rd gear problems with the 18+ MT-82.

The computer Doesn’t hold revs nearly as much on clutch-in, making for much smoother quick shifting since the revs fall fast as expected. Maybe my most favorite part of the tune.

Some extra exhaust pops on clutch-in under heavier throttle, at least in sport exhaust (I have active).

I noticed less torque management in 1&2 overall and/or the increase plus flatter curve others have noted is the reason. Either way there, is power and responsiveness below 3500 that just was not there in the standard tune.

Intake noise sounds good (tried some full throttle in quiet mode) and all the DI pump noise/clatter around 2000-2500 is gone with the sound tube delete, im very happy with that because it was annoying and unpleasant to me.

Overall I would say this is probably what the factory tune should be, for PP cars at least. Less for the power, more for the driveability and changes to shifting behavior - I hated the artificial rev hanging that assumed you took 2 seconds to shift at all times. Honestly I didn’t notice the HP change overall, but did get a little more sideways around peak power in 2nd, still on factory 255 A/S though. Mostly feel it all below 4k. The all seasons are even more exposed due to torque which I plan to address soon. Can’t hook well on the base tune let alone now.

As for price/target market/fitment - I did snag this at 951 and installed it myself. Only a few month left on warranty, so whatever. Comparing that to the cost of a CAI, new TB/adapter, and tune, it’s a fair price for something that I didn’t have to think much about. I get that there are higher performing tunes, but for me the DD torque and overall easy solution made sense. Fitment is OK, I had some struggles with the TB to CAI as I mentioned in other posts. Two people would make it better. Hood does seem to poke up maybe 1/4 inch higher on the driver side now at the fascia/hood line. The inlet/snorkel to front bumper is a little tedious but I took my time and got it on snug. I noticed IATs at ~10 or so above ambient on a 62 degree day which is roughly the same as stock. I need to take some more measurements though, worst I saw was maybe 20 during a long stoplight.

So much for quick thoughts, I might get out some over the weekend for some cruising, but nowhere to go really and rainy weather coming.

Thanks for the detailed feedback! Do you run 91 or 93 in your car? Looking forward to hearing from others on this as well.

 

[Mustangpursuit]

one of the posters has this with a stock airbox, so Ford could have made a cheaper package? throttle body + procal/tune only?

I was checking out the gauges in the ProCal tool today (haven’t done anything with it since flashing the tune) and noticed an error code in the troubleshooting menu. The calibration flashed correctly and the car has been driving normally so I am not sure why it is showing this error. Also, there were no codes before and after the calibration was flashed.

P160A - Control Module Vehicle Options Reconfiguration Error P161A - Incorrect Response From Immobilizer Control Module P162F - Starter Motor Disabled - Engine Crank Time Too Long P1633 - Keep Alive Power (KAPWR) Voltage Too Low Description: This DTC sets when the body control module (BCM) detects a mismatch in configuration data and programmable parameters between the PCM and BCM

That code needs a Forscan tool to be cleared?

 

[gismo4]

one of the posters has this with a stock airbox, so Ford could have made a cheaper package? throttle body + procal/tune only?

To that point, I doubt anyone will do it, but it would be cool to see the gains between base, base+tune, and all the permutations. It's overkill, but it has my curiosity. Imagine if the tune is enough and the other 2 mods are just money grabs?

 

[rebellovw]

Manual here. I’ll caveat my response first by saying I’ve had 1 drive on the tune, maybe 45 minutes in town and a little highway. I did try to experiment with scenarios around the torque peak and in different gears. I have a non-pp so 3.55 rear. Quick thoughts:

More torque feels good, kinda simple. The 40tqs increase is right at cruising speed or so for a given gear/speed limit scenario, which makes it feel far more responsive in traffic etc. 2-6 all feel a little more like 1-5 now at 2k rpm in normal driving conditions which is appreciated. Masks some of the tall 3rd gear problems with the 18+ MT-82.

The computer Doesn’t hold revs nearly as much on clutch-in, making for much smoother quick shifting since the revs fall fast as expected. Maybe my most favorite part of the tune.

Some extra exhaust pops on clutch-in under heavier throttle, at least in sport exhaust (I have active).

I noticed less torque management in 1&2 overall and/or the increase plus flatter curve others have noted is the reason. Either way there, is power and responsiveness below 3500 that just was not there in the standard tune.

Intake noise sounds good (tried some full throttle in quiet mode) and all the DI pump noise/clatter around 2000-2500 is gone with the sound tube delete, im very happy with that because it was annoying and unpleasant to me.

Overall I would say this is probably what the factory tune should be, for PP cars at least. Less for the power, more for the driveability and changes to shifting behavior - I hated the artificial rev hanging that assumed you took 2 seconds to shift at all times. Honestly I didn’t notice the HP change overall, but did get a little more sideways around peak power in 2nd, still on factory 255 A/S though. Mostly feel it all below 4k. The all seasons are even more exposed due to torque which I plan to address soon. Can’t hook well on the base tune let alone now.

As for price/target market/fitment - I did snag this at 951 and installed it myself. Only a few month left on warranty, so whatever. Comparing that to the cost of a CAI, new TB/adapter, and tune, it’s a fair price for something that I didn’t have to think much about. I get that there are higher performing tunes, but for me the DD torque and overall easy solution made sense. Fitment is OK, I had some struggles with the TB to CAI as I mentioned in other posts. Two people would make it better. Hood does seem to poke up maybe 1/4 inch higher on the driver side now at the fascia/hood line. The inlet/snorkel to front bumper is a little tedious but I took my time and got it on snug. I noticed IATs at ~10 or so above ambient on a 62 degree day which is roughly the same as stock. I need to take some more measurements though, worst I saw was maybe 20 during a long stoplight.

So much for quick thoughts, I might get out some over the weekend for some cruising, but nowhere to go really and rainy weather coming.

Great info - now I really want it. I didn't know about the holding revs - drives me a bit crazy - I thought I was holding the throttle down too long - now I know why. Thanks.

 

[Dfeeds]

To that point, I doubt anyone will do it, but it would be cool to see the gains between base, base+tune, and all the permutations. It's overkill, but it has my curiosity. Imagine if the tune is enough and the other 2 mods are just money grabs?

They're not. I was wondering why the TB adapter is tapered and had a hunch that it's either to increase air velocity or it's because the 87mm is bigger than ideal. Fortunately I was ignorant and learned that a tapered bore on the throttle body (adapter for us) increases the air velocity into the combustion chamber and improves the scavenging affect of the engine. The two factors combined means the engine is getting more clean air per cycle, as opposed to a parallel bore on the TB. This typically equates to more torque across the power band. Even the placement of the butterfly valve can have an impact.

This little detail implies that someone with a good aftermarket exhaust would gain more from this than someone with a stock exhaust. The borla S comes to mind if those dyno graphs from that review (forgot who did it) are credible.

 

[spaz mk will]

Thanks for the detailed feedback! Do you run 91 or 93 in your car? Looking forward to hearing from others on this as well.

Just about exclusively buy from Costco, fortunate enough to have a few around the city and on my route. Believe it’s 91.

 

[spaz mk will]

Great info - now I really want it. I didn't know about the holding revs - drives me a bit crazy - I thought I was holding the throttle down too long - now I know why. Thanks.

Definitely the computer, not you. If you clutch in and coast, watch the tach - it holds revs for a second or two. I’ve observed that it will ease up after some amount of time with more aggressive throttle, but I find it annoying even during normal driving. Just causes unnecessary work to monitor revs more during shifting, glad that it seems to be gone now.

 

[LetItRide1978]

P160A - Control Module Vehicle Options Reconfiguration Error P161A - Incorrect Response From Immobilizer Control Module P162F - Starter Motor Disabled - Engine Crank Time Too Long P1633 - Keep Alive Power (KAPWR) Voltage Too Low Description: This DTC sets when the body control module (BCM) detects a mismatch in configuration data and programmable parameters between the PCM and BCM

That code needs a Forscan tool to be cleared?

Hopefully not. Although I see it’s compatible with iOS so that’s good. Had to borrow a Windows laptop just to do the tune. Not getting a check engine light or anything else from the car itself. I’ll check it again tomorrow after driving it around a bit before I order anything else. Also I connected the ProCal device that came with my MagneRide handling pack kit and it’s showing the correct software ID for the tune so I think I’m good there.

 

[gismo4]

They're not. I was wondering why the TB adapter is tapered and had a hunch that it's either to increase air velocity or it's because the 87mm is bigger than ideal. Fortunately I was ignorant and learned that a tapered bore on the throttle body (adapter for us) increases the air velocity into the combustion chamber and improves the scavenging affect of the engine. The two factors combined means the engine is getting more clean air per cycle, as opposed to a parallel bore on the TB. This typically equates to more torque across the power band. Even the placement of the butterfly valve can have an impact.

This little detail implies that someone with a good aftermarket exhaust would gain more from this than someone with a stock exhaust. The borla S comes to mind if those dyno graphs from that review (forgot who did it) are credible.

Good to hear without seeing these parts first hand. I'm getting more and more anxious to installing this.

 

[Rpinaiii]

I need to check out the tach when I shift. I have no idea what is being mentioned here about that lol. If the RPMs hold for a couple of seconds, is that because the 18+ manuals are suppose to have the no lift shift? BTW I never try that.

 

[lb18]

Just about exclusively buy from Costco, fortunate enough to have a few around the city and on my route. Believe it’s 91.

Me too! Good to have as much of an apples to apples comparison as possible. Appreciate your feedback!

 

[spaz mk will]

I need to check out the tach when I shift. I have no idea what is being mentioned here about that lol. If the RPMs hold for a couple of seconds, is that because the 18+ manuals are suppose to have the no lift shift? BTW I never try that.

I was referring to the stock tune holding RPMs on clutch-in rather than dropping more immediately as you would expect. That has always bothered me, but appears to be gone with this FP tune. Just my observation though, not something Ford specifically called out in their feature list.

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