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Adding Active Exhaust on 2018 GT

NotMarc

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This is by no means a step by step how to. Mainly consolidated information from the other thread and photos of my sketchy half assed(for now) installation. Please read through the other thread to get a full understanding and verify before proceeding. Thanks to Fishtail, Rock50, and others for putting in the hard work of tracking down information and tracing wiring from the pcm and fuse box to the passenger cabin.
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20190119_213446 - Copy.jpg
Thank you so much for this. I am going to pick this back up as a project now that it looks like this is really doable.

Can you confirm this works with the mode changing on the dash?
I'm missing the relay and power to the exhaust but I have the cable at the back.
I would love to know this as well. ^^ What is your full exhaust system and how is it performing?
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ehazel

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It works as if it was optioned at the factory. Both the manual (within the settings in the gauge cluster) and changing drive modes operate the AE. Quiet start also functions normally.(This is a life saver if you do a resonator delete) I set the quiet start to 12 too 12 so it always starts in quiet mode. If you want a rowdy cold start You can start in track mode via powering the accessories then changing to track in the gauge cluster before turning the car over.

The only non Ford part I am running on my exhaust (apart from my wiring) is a Steeda x pipe. I am super happy with the results and have no plans to make any more changes. The sound output range is incredible between quiet and track + It sounds borderline exotic at high revs in sport+ or track mode.

Can you confirm this works with the mode changing on the dash?
I'm missing the relay and power to the exhaust but I have the cable at the back.
Thank you so much for this. I am going to pick this back up as a project now that it looks like this is really doable.



I would love to know this as well. ^^ What is your full exhaust system and how is it performing?
 

acemastr

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It works as if it was optioned at the factory. Both the manual (within the settings in the gauge cluster) and changing drive modes operate the AE. Quiet start also functions normally.(This is a life saver if you do a resonator delete) I set the quiet start to 12 too 12 so it always starts in quiet mode. If you want a rowdy cold start You can start in track mode via powering the accessories then changing to track in the gauge cluster before turning the car over.

The only non Ford part I am running on my exhaust (apart from my wiring) is a Steeda x pipe. I am super happy with the results and have no plans to make any more changes. The sound output range is incredible between quiet and track + It sounds borderline exotic at high revs in sport+ or track mode.
Since I have the connector at the rear, should I just be able to pull power to it like you did?
 

50racer

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if you have a 2019 which it looks like you do, it may not be 100% plug and play with forscan. if you read through the entire 24 pages of the existing thread there are some people that have 2018/2019 and done plug and play, others that had to go to dealer for some other programming, and others that couldn't get it done. That said I do a 2019, I have the plug in back and the relay and fuses already in the fusebox. I just ordered the harnesses needed. I am waiting on a new ODB adapter that has the MS CAN switch because my existing one didn't have it and I couldn't modify the IPC module (which is required). Once I have those items in this week sometime (hopefully) I will be attempting the activation in the dash and verifying the voltages back at the plugs before I purchase mufflers. I also am only purchasing the actuators I have no intention of using the stock mufflers, so I will be getting a BORLA or CORSA system once I know it will work. I will keep everyone posted once I get further.
 

ehazel

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Since I have the connector at the rear, should I just be able to pull power to it like you did?
If you have the rear connector you shouldn't need to pull anything.(Maybe just add the fuse and relay?) You have the exact opposite issue as me, I didn't have any AE wiring or connectors past the foot-wells. Your issue is (as you are missing the relay/fuse/terminals) we don't know if you are wired from ecu/power TO the foot-wells (and then onto the rear connector)

If I was in your position I would start with checking the connectors in the foot-wells to make sure power and signal wires are continuing past those connectors.(Mine had the wires on front side of the connector and the rear side didn't have a wire continuing to the rear of the car) (Just verify one wire in one wire out for all the listed wires)
If so I would then check for power at the rear connector. (12v Power is a violet wire with a brown stripe, ground is a blackwire with a yellow stripe. Verify that with the wiring diagram) If it has power I would think it also has signal.(I don't know of an easy to to make sure you are getting the pwm signal to the rear connector short of an oscilloscope or buying everything and plugging in to test.)

As 50racer said, I would read that thread and see what issues others have ran into with the MY19s.
 

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acemastr

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Bit of an update, added power to the rear connector, adjusted 720-04-01 and 720-10-01 and still no valve movement.

Going to see if Ford will help me change PCM settings
 

50racer

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If they do anything to get it to work please see if they will tell you what they changed. Thank you and good luck. I just got my harnesses yesterday. Wont get my new obd2 adapter till Monday.
 

acemastr

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First Ford dealer didn't know how to do it, not sure how much effort they put in. I'll go to the others and speak to someone.
"You'll need someone with an aftermarket programmer to do it" is what he said... he clearly didn't know.
 

acemastr

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3 dealers down, "It can't be done" over and over... why are dealers so hard to work with
 

JRedondox

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Wiring is not there unfortunately.... Here is a wiring diagram of the actuators. Technically it looks possible and worst case, you would have to run wiring directly to the PCM and battery junction box. Best case is that the wiring mostly exists and is just missing the actual leads and connectors. Have to do more investigation to find out.
exhaust.PNG
Hi Zack anyway you can post the diagram for the gt350?
 

GrayS550

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Thread:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-active-exhaust-install-guide.101913/

If you have the plug based on this post its super easy (plug and play + forscan edit) to install. If not its a little more difficult.
Plug location:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...aust-install-guide.101913/page-3#post-2234512


If you dont have the plug make sure to read all the way through that thread as there are wiring diagrams, plug pinouts, wire gauges, etc.

Here are some key posts:

Signal:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-active-exhaust-install-guide.101913/page-12#post-2388973

Power:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ust-install-guide.101913/page-15#post-2422428

I added active to my car following that thread. You have to read all the way through as its original thread got off topic and switched to installing to 2018 cars. I didn't have the plug so I had to make my own harness to tap into the wiring in the Driver(Signal) and passenger(Power) footwells.
My active exhaust is a 3 pin wire (2018 GT350 exhaust) and I have no idea how to wire it to a switch to open and close the valves. One wire is negative, then the middle wire is negative switched, then the last wire is a positive. Does anyone know how to wire this up for the valves to work? I don’t want to cut open my actuators to remove the logic board.
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