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BBQ tick - another attempt to understand

Condor1970

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Maybe some XL-17 ... :wink: How else can it be explained that some engines started the typewriter tick after an oil change using the "supposed" same Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend that the engine comes from the factory with.

If it is indeed rod moving side to side on the crank journals and clanging (ticking), it's possible that due to clearances, machining finish quality on all the parts, etc during manufacturing, that some might tick to some degree even if the rod side clearance was within specs. Who knows what might make the free floating rods move side to side on the journals while the engine is running. The more clearance there is, the louder and more prominent the ticking might be, and that may also explain why some guys get rid of the ticking by simply using a different brand/viscosity of oil, or get rid of the ticking with just 50 mL of Ceratec while other guys have to use two bottles. Lots of variables going in IMO with this whole BBQ/typewriter ticking phenomenon.
That 50ml didn't make it go away completely. I'm getting light ticking during warm up, but after driving to work, the ticking is basically gone when at full operating temp. Clearances must be closing up when they expand from the heat. Weird.
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GT Pony

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That 50ml didn't make it go away completely. I'm getting light ticking during warm up, but after driving to work, the ticking is basically gone when at full operating temp. Clearances must be closing up when they expand from the heat. Weird.
If so then that supports it's parts clearances related, and the the oil formulation (friction level/cushioning factor) is a factor. IMO, it's pointed to that more than the cavitation theory.
 

Condor1970

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If so then that supports it's parts clearances related, and the the oil formulation (friction level/cushioning factor) is a factor. IMO, it's pointed to that more than the cavitation theory.
What I'm wondering, is if you're right, then it's possible that with the newer engine in the 2018+, it could be causing more noticeable rod end impact just due to the force involved from higher compression. It occurs much more often in the newer engines, like in the diesels as well. Could be why pro5.0's engine was in spec, but still ticked.
 

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What I'm wondering, is if you're right, then it's possible that with the newer engine in the 2018+, it could be causing more noticeable rod end impact just due to the force involved from higher compression. It occurs much more often in the newer engines, like in the diesels as well. Could be why pro5.0's engine was in spec, but still ticked.
That could be about the Gen3 Coyotes - hard to say what factors could make free floating rods move side to side while the engine is running. We know a couple of Gen2 Coyotes reported here that were bad tickers did have rod side clearances out of spec. The video of pro5.0's ticking didn't seem to sound as bad as some heavy ticker videos posted - but it's hard to tell in a video though.

The only way the theory of the rods moving side to side is causing the ticking could ultimately be proven would be to take a badly ticking engine, and tighten up the rod side clearances somehow if found to be on the high side of spec or out of spec - not an easy thing to do. Then run the same exact oil brand/viscosity it was ticking on without using any additives like Ceratec, and see if the ticking drastically changes or went away entirely.
 
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And why rod clearance suddenly matters right after the oil change.
That rod clearance inspector needs to be shown the door....
 

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And why rod clearance suddenly matters right after the oil change.
If it's rod side clearance causing the ticking noise, it's the way the rods and noise behaves with the oil friction and cushioning properties. Obviously, the noise is a function of the oil properties. The oil is not changing any clearances, but changing how the parts interact with each other.
 
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If it's rod side clearance causing the ticking noise, it's the way the rods and noise behaves with the oil friction and cushioning properties. Obviously, the noise is a function of the oil properties. The oil is not changing any clearances, but changing how the parts interact with each other.
Might be. But then by now mustang owners cooperatively would come-up with, let's say a couple of oils that are tick resistant. Kind of like ceratec. I.e - if yo have a tick - buy Castril XYZ. If Castrol does not work for you, then it will be Pennzoil ABC. But seems like there's no such thing.
 

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I do not think you get the point.'

For the issue to be rod side clearance, rods would have to develop excessive clearance within the time of oil change.
Or the factory oil fill is something special. How else can you explain many guys getting the tick right after the first oil change, and with Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend like the factory oil that is supposedly the same oil - or is it special in some way that's different than the Motorcraft you get at the dealership in bottles at the auto store.

Again, if it's the rod side clearance, it's how the rods interact on the camshaft journals as a function of oil formulation/additives. We all know just adding some Ceratec (not even the recommended amount) makes many guy's engine stop ticking almost instantly (within a couple of minutes or less). The clearance doesn't ever change, it's how the formulation/additives affect the way the rods behave on the crankshaft.
 

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accel

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Or the factory oil fill is something special. How else can you explain many guys getting the tick right after the first oil change, and with Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend like the factory oil that is supposedly the same oil - or is it special in some way that's different than the Motorcraft you get at the dealership in bottles at the auto store.

Again, if it's the rod side clearance, it's how the rods interact on the camshaft journals as a function of oil formulation/additives. We all know just adding some Ceratec (not even the recommended amount) makes many guy's engine stop ticking almost instantly (within a couple of minutes or less). The clearance doesn't ever change, it's how the formulation/additives affect the way the rods behave on the crankshaft.
When you have a new short block, you do not get "factory fill". Dealer fills the oil.

Unless the short block arrives with special oil to use. But short block repl. invoice had a line for 5w20 MC as a separate item.
 

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When you have a new short block, you do not get "factory fill". Dealer fills the oil.

Unless the short block arrives with special oil to use. But short block repl. invoice had a line for 5w20 MC as a separate item.
Dealership fills the oil on any short/long block repairs. But IIRC, some guys had the ticking with the short block too, and I don't think it took an oil change for it to show up.
 

Mrmarkmac

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Or the factory oil fill is something special. How else can you explain many guys getting the tick right after the first oil change.
My tick started before 1,000 miles on factory oil. Many others report the same so I don’t think there’s anything special about the factory fill, other than some reported with less than 10 qts.

In another thread I posted the BlackStone lab results from my factory oil.
 

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My car dont have the bbq tik. Only have 500 miles. I remove 8 quarts of oem oil I'm scared with this oil. And I put:
2 bottles of Ceratec
2 jugs of Castrol Edge 5w30 Synthetic

I Started the car and sound like a Toyota Prius. I sleep in peace. :inlove:
 

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My tick started before 1,000 miles on factory oil.
Your engine noise is a strange one ... doesn't seem to be a normal BBQ/typewriter tick by the way it behaves. That's why it's pretty hard to pin point the BBQ/typewriter ticking cause, because there may be other noises that sound similar but are caused by different things going on.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bbq-tick-after-oil-change.24612/page-31#post-2484286

You said: "Once car was up to full temp, tick was completely gone like usual."
The BBQ/typewriter tick typically doesn't go away when warmed up, but rather shows up when the engine is warm/full temp. Ford in their SSM 7718 says it typically shows up with oil temps above 150F, and after an oil change, and between idle and 1700 RPM.
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