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Which aftermarket radiator?

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turbofiveoh

turbofiveoh

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so why wouldn't someone elect for RaceLouvers if they wanted a product that actually works?
To imply the TrackSpec doesn't work isn't exactly accurate or fair to TrackSpec. The TrackSpec vent works significantly better than the OEM vent but not nearly as good as the RaceLouver. When street driving the 20% of the Track Spec vent that is working is extracting significantly more air than the OEM vent.

While it may never have the same functionality of the RaceLouver vent the TrackSpec vent, as stated previously, is, to me, an excellent compromise between function and form if the desired goal is improving air extraction performance while keeping something of an OEM look.
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Ryan_s550

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Something else to consider to further lower cooling temps is separating the oil cooler from the cooling system. I just added an external oil cooler on my whipple car. I don't have good data yet, as I've only driven it on the street, but oil and coolant temps are better. I actually need to have the fan adjusted to kick on a little later to let the oil get a little hotter.
 
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Are you using the Whipple large heat exchanger? If so, which oil cooler did you use? I would not hesitate to install a remote oil cooler but the large heat exchanger takes up nearly all of the usable real estate behind the bumper.
 

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And more important. Are you 10speed?
If yes. Did you mount the oil cooler on the lower grille ?
 

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Flyhalf

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Looks like he's got a 16...so 6R80 or MT-82.
6r80 same issue. Radiator is the same. If he puts a oil cooler and the intercooler in front of the trans cooler the trans will suffer.
While
My82 of course no issues
 

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Sealing in all 4 sides of the radiator is most critical to getting cooling under control. I used plastic corrugated sign board from Lowes, its stuck to sides of radiator with double sided tape and sealed everywhere with duct tape. Keeps my TT cool for a 20min session in the Texas heat.
45A23EBA-4E1B-4F4A-97D7-7A0E4A8E5BD8.jpeg
 
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This is something I had planned to do the next time the bumper was off. I was going to have a local fabricator make something out of aluminum but if corrugated sign board gets the job done reliably that's much friendlier on the wallet. Do you have any more pictures?

Does the increased airflow into the engine compartment make the hood flutter?
 

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Yoy can definetely box it by your self.
It is a fun project.
Buynsome alluminium sheet and cardboard box for templates at homedepot :)
Ducting dramatically increase cooling. Highly suggest venting the hood.

20200726_161629_HDR.jpg
 

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Thanks for posting additional pictures. I'll definitely do this soon. Hopefully the trackspec vents allow for enough air to escape so the there's no buffeting under the hood.
 

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This is something I had planned to do the next time the bumper was off. I was going to have a local fabricator make something out of aluminum but if corrugated sign board gets the job done reliably that's much friendlier on the wallet. Do you have any more pictures?

Does the increased airflow into the engine compartment make the hood flutter?
Yeah, the corrugated sign board is easy to work with, cuts with a box knife and is flexible enough to maneuver into the tight spots, but stiff enough to keep its basic shape. I don’t have more pics, but it will take a day to do the job as there is a lot of trial and error before you finally get everything how you like it. Also cutting holes for the AC lines and other lines adds time.

I also have the track spec hood vents, the hood still flutters but it might be a little better.
 
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To keep everybody updated, a friend ordered the same radiator and found that the composite whipple coolant tank interfered with the radiator. He said with some modification to the bottom corner of radiator it fit. Alternately some more complicated modifications to the whipple tank would have yielded the same results. I have the aluminum whipple coolant tank and I didn't have any interference issues.

Based on the cooling performance I'm seeing I would not hesitate to install a DeWitts radiator in spite of the slight modification needed.

For those of you that are thinking about pulling the trigger I discovered that they are having a sale this weekend for 12% off with code HOLIDAY.
 

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The radiator got here this week and it looks to be very well built.
11.jpg

Large 1.25" tubes:
12.jpg

The radiator was thinner than expected because the upper plate was sized to the fins, not the tanks:
01.jpg

Here is the PP radiator compared to the DeWitts:
03.jpg


The ac condenser clips are aluminum blocks welded to the tanks with slits cut into them so the condenser needs to be lined up perfectly when the radiator in getting installed. It's a pain in arse to get the clips into the slots. Having a second person would be have made the job much easier.
02.jpg


The fan shroud goes on pretty easily and I would strongly recommend adding fender washers to between the head of the bolt and the fan shroud. I would also recommend adding some thread locker so the bolts don't vibrate loose:
05.jpg


From here installation is pretty straightforward. I pulled the foam strip from the top of the stock radiator and re-installed it on the new radiator. Don't know if it's necessary, but it was easy enough.
The thickness of the radiator has the AC condenser tight up against the plastic core support. It's at the very top edge behind the hood latch. The next time I have the bumper off I'll trim that section of plastic so the condenser has more room. It's no more than .125" that is touching.
13.jpg


Unless you want to drill new holes for the radiator mounts you'll need to pull back on the radiator in order to get the bolts started because of the contract between the AC condense and the plastic core. It's a tight fit but it does fit.
10.jpg


For the people with Whipple superchargers, the clearance between the serpentine belt and the upper radiator hose is now very close due to the added thickness of the radiator:
06.jpg


It was too close for my liking so I cut 1.5" off of the upper radiator hose and reinstalled the hose.
07.jpg


The spacing between the belt and the upper hose is now much better. There's plenty of slack in the upper hose so there are no kinks or anything to worry about after removing 1.5" from the radiator end of the hose.
08.jpg


Still need to fill the radiator with water and I figure while I've got the car up in the air I might as well change the oil...so I haven't driven it yet. Once I get it filled up and get a chance to drive it hard I'll provide an update on how the new radiator does on keeping the engine cool.
Definitely a quality made radiator for sure! I checked their pricing, for what you have shown and the overall quality of the product - the prices are very fair, especially being hand built in Detroit and the USA!!

Thanks for the post and info.
 
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Another update:
I took the car for a drive on a road that I drive decently hard from time to time. The last time I drove the car hard on that road the CHT got as high as 230 before I decided to back off. Yesterday, I drove the car as hard, if not harder, and the CHT got to 203 once but stayed mostly between 190 and 198.
So far the upgrade has been well worth the cost and effort. As before, the true test will be a 20-30 minute session at 8/10+ effort.
The results so far are extremely encouraging...
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