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Which aftermarket radiator?

Gt350procharged

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will the dewitts radiator fit the 2018 gt350? whats the best radiator to cool down car on the roadcourse track ? c&r vs mishimoto vs fluidyne ?
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will the dewitts radiator fit the 2018 gt350? whats the best radiator to cool down car on the roadcourse track ? c&r vs mishimoto vs fluidyne ?
You can't go wrong with any of them.
FWIW, C&R makes the radiator for the Mustang GT4.
Mishimoto, Fluidyne, CSF, all solid brand names
 

Gt350procharged

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You can't go wrong with any of them.
FWIW, C&R makes the radiator for the Mustang GT4.
Mishimoto, Fluidyne, CSF, all solid brand names
the main issue is design C&R is a single pass and mishimoto and fluidyne is a triple pass....triple will cause more pressure and maybe is a drawback........I just need the best cooling for the roadcourse track I run a gt350 procharged.....revving at 6k rpm all is good but revving at 8k rpm my car overheats ...i have 2 oil coolers and hood vent
 

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Gt350procharged

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someone rigged up the window-washer to cycle a pump that misted the rad.
I thought about setting up a separate washer tank for that to spray water to rad and intercooler and oil cooler
 

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the main issue is design C&R is a single pass and mishimoto and fluidyne is a triple pass....triple will cause more pressure and maybe is a drawback........I just need the best cooling for the roadcourse track I run a gt350 procharged.....revving at 6k rpm all is good but revving at 8k rpm my car overheats ...i have 2 oil coolers and hood vent
C&R will have the best materials, but they are made for a very specific application. A GT4 is restricted to under 450 HP. It cools that well, but I wouldn't expect it to be sufficient for hundreds of extra HP. I went back and forth with them a year ago. If you want a custom rad, they'll do anything, but you pay for that.

Ron Davis makes nice rads and is definitely worth a look.
 

Gt350procharged

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Ok I received both the Fluidyne and Mishimoto GT/GT350 radiator to compare them.....the fabrication is top notch on both however I measured the overall size of the core radiator portion (middle part that contains the triplepass)...

Fluidyne: 1.75"x20.125"x25.375" = 894 inches3 volume

Mishimoto: 2"x19.875"x25.5" = 1014 inches3 volume

So I decided to go with the larger Mishimoto....
 

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apologies for bumping an old thread, but this seems to be the most complete one on DeWitts. @turbofiveoh , have you eventually tested yours on a road course? is there any data that you could share?
 

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Gt350procharged

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did you have fitment struggles?
(yes I know the guy hasn't been on the forum since March)
Fit great and works well but Steeda claims C&R would have cooled better on the track....can someone try this?

https://www.steeda.com/cr-25-01056-s550-radiator

My gt350 dynod at 6psi 630whp....anything after 6k rpm shifting produced too much heat on the track

Steeda recently modified my water pump to slow down flow so the coolant stays in radiator longer for increased cooling on track...I havent tested this yet on track..
 
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TeeLew

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Fit great and works well but Steeda claims C&R would have cooled better on the track....can someone try this?
I'll bet you a dollar to a donut that Steeda is correct on this one.
 
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apologies for bumping an old thread, but this seems to be the most complete one on DeWitts. @turbofiveoh , have you eventually tested yours on a road course? is there any data that you could share?
Unfortunately I haven't had an opportunity to get the car out on a road course. Driving it hard on back roads in the middle of the summer did result in lower oveall CHTs. The biggest benefit I'm getting from the radiator is the temp recovery when compared to the stock radiator. With the stock radiator once the temps got hot it took a while for them to come down. With the dewitts the coolant temps recover pretty quickly.

I don't really understand how Ford calculates coolant temps so I pay attention to the CHT. I have read the CHT is about 10-20 degrees hotter than actual coolant temp but I can't say for certain what the relationship it. For what it's worth the engine coolant temp needle rarely moves once the car is warmed up which is slightly more than 1/3 past the cold mark on the idiot gauge. CHTs get as high as 235 under sustained loads (for example driving hard up a canyon road) but generally stays around 220 when the car is pushed hard. There's no simulating a road course on the street but I am pretty confident that if the car get hot on the road course letting it cool on a straight will be enough to get the temps under control.

The whipple intercooler is probably a significant contributing factor of my cooling challenges. It blocks airflow to the radiator and is puking hot air into the radiator. I'm pretty sure if I didn't have the whipple intercooler in the way the car would be fine on the road course.

TL;DR - No road course yet. Hard street driving = Improved CHTs and coolant temp recovery is vastly improved.

Hope this helps.
 

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CHTs get as high as 235 under sustained loads (for example driving hard up a canyon road) but generally stays around 220 when the car is pushed hard.
Hope this helps.
thanks, it does help. few more questions please:
1) what are the ambient temps in the scenario that you describe?
2) have you done any radiator ducting or is it all stock there?
 

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Unfortunately I haven't had an opportunity to get the car out on a road course. Driving it hard on back roads in the middle of the summer did result in lower oveall CHTs. The biggest benefit I'm getting from the radiator is the temp recovery when compared to the stock radiator. With the stock radiator once the temps got hot it took a while for them to come down. With the dewitts the coolant temps recover pretty quickly.

I don't really understand how Ford calculates coolant temps so I pay attention to the CHT. I have read the CHT is about 10-20 degrees hotter than actual coolant temp but I can't say for certain what the relationship it. For what it's worth the engine coolant temp needle rarely moves once the car is warmed up which is slightly more than 1/3 past the cold mark on the idiot gauge. CHTs get as high as 235 under sustained loads (for example driving hard up a canyon road) but generally stays around 220 when the car is pushed hard. There's no simulating a road course on the street but I am pretty confident that if the car get hot on the road course letting it cool on a straight will be enough to get the temps under control.

The whipple intercooler is probably a significant contributing factor of my cooling challenges. It blocks airflow to the radiator and is puking hot air into the radiator. I'm pretty sure if I didn't have the whipple intercooler in the way the car would be fine on the road course.

TL;DR - No road course yet. Hard street driving = Improved CHTs and coolant temp recovery is vastly improved.

Hope this helps.
Id like to make a suggestion.....an oil cooler will lower your CHTs more than an upgraded radiator. Your radiator is doing double duty trying to cool both your coolant and it circulates through the oil cooler. If you are serious about running your car on the track for extended intervals, boost isn't usually the answer. With that being said, Ive been running a 16 GT Whipple car for years now. I'm very conscious about temperatures. I've done several things to make it work. I only run it on the track in sub 80 degree temps, and ideally cooler. The upgraded whipple heat exchanger keeps IATs in check. I upgraded to a mishimoto radiator from a standard GT radiator. The GT500 hood gets a lot of heat out of the engine bay. I also run the car on e85 which helps keep cylinder temps a little cooler and ensures I don't see any knock. I usually see CHTs sub 205 degrees, and oil temps are usually around 230. Running all out Ill see oil temps creep up to 245+.

The most significant mod was by far the oil cooler. Due to the size of the Whipple heat exchanger I removed my washer fluid tank and installed a cooler in the fender behind where the fog light was. Id highly encourage you to install one, otherwise your are going to keep chasing these temps with minimal results.
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