That’s always the way it goes. I did the same thing Friday morning. Gave it a quick bath (mostly because it got nailed by bird doodoo the night before) and by lunchtime it was pouringcleaned up both black beautys....then it decided to rain out of nowhere lasy 3 hours later :(
cleaned up both black beautys....then it decided to rain out of nowhere lasy 3 hours later :(
Do European GTs get black hood vents as standard or did you source yours from somewhere? I wish there was a way to purchase the OEM vents painted in shadow black like the black accent package. ThanksSame here, yesterday (like you), and also since October (like you) …
Consumer hybrid ceramic (Turtle Wax) held up really well, and it came out surprisingly smooth and slick (outdoor kept). Took a bit longer than normal as I did a double foam, doubled up on each panel with the two bucket, and also two wash mitts (a short and long pile).
I left the wheels as the rust from the rotors will make a mess of them real quick, I will do those properly when it’s back on it’s normal wash routine next weekend (ready for its first meet of the year on Sunday).
Photos from today, so it’s already accumulating dust and debris :
The only issue so far, but it wiped off real easy :
I might consider trying to cover / mask off the vents for next year.
Four years on, and I’m still getting
(euro) cavity wax residue coming out of the door drains that stains both the paint and plastic …
APC, masking tape, ceramic and dressing - it’s a been a regular job over the last few years …
I’ve not been running it since it’s been off the road, but it fired perfectly and ran clean :
It will get taxed on the 1st, but it did get a little drive around the block, allegedly …
WD
I bought them as takeoffs from a forum member who was happy to ship them over here for me
@GT Pony
Check eBay Motors…I bought OEM vents for I think $75 and had them painted black.You may get lucky and find black ones.
This made me laugh :@GT Pony To confirm, I defo cant lift the hood and wipers at the same time i.e. I couldn't remove the wiper arm in it's up position as suggested by @Elp_jc further up this thread, well not without removing the hood ... lol
I think the arms are cast with a plain tapered bore (cheaper to manufacture). The arm is soft. The spindle is hard and the splines on the spindle are tapered and sharp. I think the (very shallow) splines I now see in my wiper arm are created upon first assembly, I think the spindle cuts the spline into the arm as it is torqued down. In my 'opinion' the spline in the arm is way to shallow to be purposely manufactured like that
@Pero - This is the tool I bought :
Draper 91251 Windscreen Wiper Arm Removal Tool, Nylon/A
by Amazon
Learn more: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07XTR2M82/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_64EZFbNYQFFGV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
But there are lots similar and a few £ cheaper. I just bought the one in the link as its a known brand over here (and matches some of my other tools ... lol).
WD
My response :
This one pissed me off :The grooves in the arms are not deep, they are more of an impression, not something that would leave swarf. That bits my opinion. In hindsight I should have snapped a picture so you could make your own mind up
With regards to my comment "If anyone reading this has seen a brand new mustang arm before fitment they could confirm this one way or another. " I wrote that because I am genuinely interested to know. Have you seen one or like me, are you just offering an opinion ?
What it doesn't change and what's not opinion, is that there is a great variance on how these cars get delivered with regards the wipers and their position - either leaving a large unswept area, hitting the A pillar or hitting the bonnet on the 18+ when lifted which they should clear.
What explanation can be offered for that, other than build inaccuracies between cars ?
WD
Then I chilled :
Then a glimmer of hope :@GT Pony - I did think of that but then I thought why ? I’m happy, seems like others not so much ...
My car is set as I would like it, I’ve posted up what I did and my thoughts on how I went about it and what I found along the way.
Hopefully the OP gets his car fixed and everyone is happy
WD
Then four years later, and out of the blue :Glad it fixed it
You didn’t happen to take the arm off and look inside the bore did you ?
I’m interested as after looking at mine I had this theory :
“I think the arms are cast with a plain tapered bore (cheaper to manufacture). The arm is soft. The spindle is hard and the splines on the spindle are tapered and sharp. I think the (very shallow) splines I now see in my wiper arm are created upon first assembly, I think the spindle cuts the spline into the arm as it is torqued down. In my 'opinion' the spline in the arm is way to shallow to be purposely manufactured like that
On this thread :
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-do-you-deal-with-this.151134/page-6#post-3094576
Your findings back up my theory i.e. there is not a true spline in there and more of a tapered interference joint where the sharp splined spindle simply bites into the soft wiper arm.
If there was a traditional spline in there and even if the arm was loose, it would still drive / rotate the arm unless it fell completely off.
I think this is why the wipers are typically ‘very’ tight from the factory (but obviously not in your case thanks to flat rock … lol)
It would be nice to know if my theory is ‘ridiculous’ or not, perhaps the aliens did indeed visit flat rock …
WD
I searched for a smug smiley, this one will have to do …Grabbed bofa deez nuts from the dealer to finish my wiper project. Got fresh motorcraft blades too. Interestingly enough, the new part I got for the driver side arm is slightly longer than my original and makes for a better fit on the 21.5 and 19.5 Motorcraft blades. Also, maybe it was WD Pro, but someone was wondering years ago about the wiper arms. The new ones are indeed cast blank and then the shaft of the stud cuts the notches into it as you tighten it down.
Thanks @Cobra Jet ... after looking at that it seems Ford must keep half their work force busy working on what coolants to use in all their vehicles, lol. I'm just going to change the coolant with the same type the car came with that's worked well for years. It's not worth the hassle of trying to totally swap out to a different coolant color and spec.
