JLTH2183
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #1
Sorry for the long story in advance:
My car is a 2016 GT Mt-82 PP car with VMP ODIN with Kooks LTH and super high flow cats
( cough cough maybe hollowed out b/c I previously found the driver side honey comb cat melting) with full 3" AWE exhaust, tuned by VMP. I have other mods too but the main mod for power is the VMP ODIN stage 2. If you have seen my previous posts I've gone through multiple tune revisions and nightmare issue with a T56 Magnum XL that I eventually got rid of.
My car has had a long time issue that wasn't a big deal at first but then it got progressively worse over time. No codes stored and no check engine light on ever. The issue was erratic poor idle when coming to a stop and then as it got worse it started stalling. It slowly just got worse over time and eventually started to happen every time I drove the car. The car drove fine on acceleration and cruise speeds. I suspected either a cam phaser issue, throttle body issue or tune issue. Working on cars for a living and not being able to fix my own car has been frustrating.
I work 10hrs a day and almost every other weekend and my car has been sitting a lot over the past year since I got a truck and a bike that I've been driving instead. VMP is about an hour away from me and they are closed on weekends but made an exception and they agreed to let me drop off my car last Saturday.
They initially charged me $300 to diagnosis the car. After day 1 they told me noting was wrong mechanically with the the car and they couldn't find any vacuum leaks or any other related problems that could cause the issue.
Day 2 they informed me it was a tune issue because they uploaded their current base map tune that they give their current customers who purchase their VMP Odin kits today and said my car was running fine with it. They gave me options on prices for level 1 & 2 tunes vs their level 3 dyno tune option. Without going to much into it I went back and forth with them and I voiced my opinion that since it is your product and your tune that is causing my car to run wrong that they should meet me halfway on the price point. The best way to tune a car is obviously on a chassis dyno tune. We worked out a deal and I asked them to dyno tune my car.
Day 4 they said it was good thing that I picked the level 3 dyno tune because at WOT my fuel pump was not providing enough fuel. We went over some options and they said if I wanted the car to run right and I didn't plan on going for big power with e85 in the future than they recommended replacing the fuel pump and keeping the BAP that came with their VMP Odin kit.
Day 5 after replacing the fuel pump they said my car was running strong and making over 700 whp and hitting 13 psi and the duty cycle on my injectors was near 100% and they said it was not safe running my car this way on pump gas 93 octane. ( I use Boostane on every other fill up to be safe) They installed a bigger pulley 3.5 inch ( 88.9 mm) vs my 3.46 inch (88mm) pulley and it peaks at 11 psi and they said the car safely makes 697.92 whp and that if I want more power than I would have to upgrade the injectors and the fuel system.
I picked my car up over the weekend and can happily say the crappy idle and stalling is gone. VMP stated since I purchased their level 3 dyno tune, I have 6 months of support and if I run into any issues they will provide me with additional tune revisions if needed. I will continue to drive my car daily and perform any data logs if necessary. Tomorrow I will put my Drag radials back on and see how she performs .
My car is a 2016 GT Mt-82 PP car with VMP ODIN with Kooks LTH and super high flow cats
( cough cough maybe hollowed out b/c I previously found the driver side honey comb cat melting) with full 3" AWE exhaust, tuned by VMP. I have other mods too but the main mod for power is the VMP ODIN stage 2. If you have seen my previous posts I've gone through multiple tune revisions and nightmare issue with a T56 Magnum XL that I eventually got rid of.My car has had a long time issue that wasn't a big deal at first but then it got progressively worse over time. No codes stored and no check engine light on ever. The issue was erratic poor idle when coming to a stop and then as it got worse it started stalling. It slowly just got worse over time and eventually started to happen every time I drove the car. The car drove fine on acceleration and cruise speeds. I suspected either a cam phaser issue, throttle body issue or tune issue. Working on cars for a living and not being able to fix my own car has been frustrating.
I work 10hrs a day and almost every other weekend and my car has been sitting a lot over the past year since I got a truck and a bike that I've been driving instead. VMP is about an hour away from me and they are closed on weekends but made an exception and they agreed to let me drop off my car last Saturday.
They initially charged me $300 to diagnosis the car. After day 1 they told me noting was wrong mechanically with the the car and they couldn't find any vacuum leaks or any other related problems that could cause the issue.
Day 2 they informed me it was a tune issue because they uploaded their current base map tune that they give their current customers who purchase their VMP Odin kits today and said my car was running fine with it. They gave me options on prices for level 1 & 2 tunes vs their level 3 dyno tune option. Without going to much into it I went back and forth with them and I voiced my opinion that since it is your product and your tune that is causing my car to run wrong that they should meet me halfway on the price point. The best way to tune a car is obviously on a chassis dyno tune. We worked out a deal and I asked them to dyno tune my car.
Day 4 they said it was good thing that I picked the level 3 dyno tune because at WOT my fuel pump was not providing enough fuel. We went over some options and they said if I wanted the car to run right and I didn't plan on going for big power with e85 in the future than they recommended replacing the fuel pump and keeping the BAP that came with their VMP Odin kit.
Day 5 after replacing the fuel pump they said my car was running strong and making over 700 whp and hitting 13 psi and the duty cycle on my injectors was near 100% and they said it was not safe running my car this way on pump gas 93 octane. ( I use Boostane on every other fill up to be safe) They installed a bigger pulley 3.5 inch ( 88.9 mm) vs my 3.46 inch (88mm) pulley and it peaks at 11 psi and they said the car safely makes 697.92 whp and that if I want more power than I would have to upgrade the injectors and the fuel system.
I picked my car up over the weekend and can happily say the crappy idle and stalling is gone. VMP stated since I purchased their level 3 dyno tune, I have 6 months of support and if I run into any issues they will provide me with additional tune revisions if needed. I will continue to drive my car daily and perform any data logs if necessary. Tomorrow I will put my Drag radials back on and see how she performs .
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