I followed the instructions provided by OPMustang which does not mention that procedure. I don't think there's any practical way to drain the trans cooler, but now after two changes I think the amount of stock Ford fluid remaining is minimal if any, and functionally it works just fine.Did you run the trans on idle prior the flush with the fill hole open (as suggested by the user manual)? If not, did you manage to drain the whole cooling system anyway?
Were you going straight from neutral to 1st or reverse when this occurred?...I did have some issues getting into 1st or reverse (had to lift clutch and try again). But that has gone away now that its broken in (maybe reverse sometimes but I consider that normal for a manual car).
both ways did it. First gear did it maybe 1-2 times. Reverse much more. I now have 20k miles and it’s shifting perfect. Just once in a while reverse requires me to lifting clutch up to try again but it’s rare.Were you going straight from neutral to 1st or reverse when this occurred?
If you always go to second first, you probably won't have this. The whole (internals) transmission, except the output shaft, spins in neutral when the clutch is released. R and 1st don't have synchronizers. 2nd does, and will stop internal rotation when engaged. Go to first or reverse after stopping internal rotation.both ways did it. First gear did it maybe 1-2 times. Reverse much more. I now have 20k miles and it’s shifting perfect. Just once in a while reverse requires me to lifting clutch up to try again but it’s rare.
true, second gear works too. Make sense I’ll do that to avoid that in future. ThanksIf you always go to second first, you probably won't have this. The whole (internals) transmission, except the output shaft, spins in neutral when the clutch is released. R and 1st don't have synchronizers. 2nd does, and will stop internal rotation when engaged. Go to first or reverse after stopping internal rotation.