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Track Alignment Setting

jmn444

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I'd suggest that 1/16 toe IN is also better for tire wear if the car is dual purpose. Toe out tends to kill the inside edges of the front tires pretty quickly.
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jmn444

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also, it's possible that the ackerman is better on this car than others that "need" toe out to turn in well. I've never researched that, but it's a well thought out car so it's possible.
 

honeybadger

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Well, I think perhaps you might be thinking we're talking about something significant. When I say toe-out we are talking about 0.07 degrees out. Basically the wheels are straight. I've run both in and slightly out. I prefer out and don't feel any difference under braking.

To each his own. I didn't say this was 'BEST" I said it worked for my friend's car and I have driven it extensively on track. I know what I like and that's my preference. If someone prefers another set up, I won't argue that with anyone.

However, I would be curious to hear the explanation for how toe-out in front causes over-steer.
This is likely because you like that itā€™s easier to get the car to start to rotate. Iā€™ve played with both as well and thatā€™s what I noticed. Toe out and the car will be easier to get into the rotation. Toe in and you have a bit more precision. Toe out is great on old crappy tires. But I prefer toe in on good tires.
 

NightmareMoon

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That is incorrect. Toe- out in the front or rear can cause oversteerā€¦. Toe-in in the front or rear induce understeer. Iā€™m not saying 1/16ā€™th will make a massive difference for oversteer (but it will some), but the farther you move away from 0, the greater the effect.

Also, in the post I referenced above, Billy Johnson discusses how toe in actually improves turn in grip because the loaded front tire is already pointed into the turn.
On paper, toe out in the front will increase turn in and it will actually increase understeer mid-corner.. Yes that's right. The outside tire is pointed out away from the turn angle, which pushes the front out - understeer.

Having played with small amounts of toe out on my car, I couldn't really tell enough of a difference on entry or to declare it better or worse.

Anyway, 2.5 degrees on a GT won't be enough camber to even out shoulder wear with grippy tires, I'd be shocked if the 350 was any different, but 2.5 is "pretty good"... i.e. it will help.

The rear, I'd advise not going more than 2 degrees of static camber. The rear suspension seems to wear evenly with only 2 degrees and any more than that you're just loosing straight line grip (at least on a GT).
 

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I'm sorry that is incorrect. Toe out in the rear is what drift cars run, that's what causes oversteer. Toe out in the front only, helps with initial turn-in to be crisper and more responsive. It does NOT cause oversteer.
Toe out in front will cause your front tires to cord at the inner edges.
 

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MandoGt350R

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This car wonā€™t see much street time. Majority track, some road race.
 

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I hope I am not hijacking the thread, but my question is this; I want to install a square setup w/track alignment settings on my 2020 GT350 and what is the preferred sequence for installation? Do you install the parts first then have it aligned, or vice versa? Given the potential tire rub on the strut without the negative camber being set, whatā€™s the work around?
 

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I hope I am not hijacking the thread, but my question is this; I want to install a square setup w/track alignment settings on my 2020 GT350 and what is the preferred sequence for installation? Do you install the parts first then have it aligned, or vice versa? Given the potential tire rub on the strut without the negative camber being set, whatā€™s the work around?
What size tires?

I think the best bet is to replace wheels/tires first, then get the alignment. @jmn444 runs a square setup 305/30/19 I believe, and does his own alignments, so heā€™s definitely the guy to talk to.
 

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305/30-19 on 19x11 rim, w/a 25mm spacer in front.
The simple answer is that the GT350 front fenders can handle big tires just fine. Your 305/30 setup doesn't come close to hitting anything at any camber you can get with a set of adjustable plates.

One thing to keep in mind on the wheel choice is that 25mm spacers are specific to wheels that come from the factory as ET50 or ET52. To get the front rims in the right place relative to the hub, you need a final ET somewhere between 24mm and 27mm. ET50 rims with a 25mm spacer are at 25mm, and ET52's are are 27.

As to getting an alignment, it really doesn't matter what rims and tires are on the car when it's done, so long as the tire pressures and tire wear levels are exactly the same side-to-side.
 

Tony_the_Brit

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Confusingly, along with the manual, my 19 GT350 came with a Track Tips leaflet with completely different alignment recommendations!

1626464010212.png
 

pilotgore

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Confusingly, along with the manual, my 19 GT350 came with a Track Tips leaflet with completely different alignment recommendations!

1626464010212.png
Very interestingā€¦. I didnā€™t get that with my ā€˜19. I wonder if the camber numbers are for non handling pack cars?
 

JAJ

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Confusingly, along with the manual, my 19 GT350 came with a Track Tips leaflet with completely different alignment recommendations!

1626464010212.png
Very interestingā€¦. I didnā€™t get that with my ā€˜19. I wonder if the camber numbers are for non handling pack cars?
Those numbers started life on a card that came with the 2015/16 model year GT350's. I have the original one - it's all white but the numbers are the same - from my 2016 Track Pack. It's likely that it's on a manifest somewhere to be included with the Owner's Manual package and they forgot to take it off when they put the track info into the Owner's Supplement directly.

In any case, you can safely ignore it. It's way out of date.
 

jmn444

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I hope I am not hijacking the thread, but my question is this; I want to install a square setup w/track alignment settings on my 2020 GT350 and what is the preferred sequence for installation? Do you install the parts first then have it aligned, or vice versa? Given the potential tire rub on the strut without the negative camber being set, whatā€™s the work around?
even if you were using camber bolts maxed out you shouldn't hit the strut, IF you used camber bolts in both upper and lower holes though, then it may be an issue, but if you just use camber plates, the tire to strut clearance won't change with camber, it only changes w/ the offset/width of your wheels which in your case would be 1mm less than stock, not an issue at all.

as stated above, the wheels don't affect alignment, so it won't matter what wheels you have on when they align it.

IF you intend to add other suspension parts though, like lowering springs, rear camber arms, rear toe rods, or cradle lock outs for examples, THEN an alignment is needed after install.
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