Track Alignment Setting

[MandoGt350R]

Hello, anyone have the proper track alignment setting numbers for a 19 GT350R? Besides the factory adjustable camber plates, it has a Steeda Shelby GT350/R Mustang Bumpsteer Kit, Road Race Front K-Member , and the adjustable Rear Toe Links. Watson rollcage. Had these installed and the car needs to be aligned.

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[pilotgore]

Hello, anyone have the proper track alignment setting numbers for a 19 GT350R? Besides the factory adjustable camber plates, it has a Steeda Shelby GT350/R Mustang Bumpsteer Kit, Road Race Front K-Member , and the adjustable Rear Toe Links. Watson rollcage. Had these installed and the car needs to be aligned.

I’ve attached a screenshot of the settings from the owners supplement. The only additional thing I’ll add is, usually more negative camber is better (to an extent.)

If you’ve never tracked the car, I recommend starting off with the factory recommended track settings.

Once you get a feel for the car with those settings, then maybe start adjusting the camber as needed.

With the factory camber plates, maxing out the front camber should net you somewhere in the 2.2-2.6 range (for an R). The rear camber number is ok, but you could stand to add a little more negative camber also. It seems like this car likes -3.0 in the front, and -2.4 in the back. IF…… you can get that. Usually it takes a camber bolt for the front. Also attached is my last alignment for reference.

 

[VictorH]

I can tell you what worked on my friends car, a 2017 GT350 that was primary used for track use, and we did A LOT of fiddling with alignment settings. Also, this is somewhat dependent for what brand/type of tire you are running. What I list below is what we found worked best for CUP2s.
Front Camber: -2.5
Rear Camber: -2.25
Front Toe: 1/32" OUT
Rear Toe: 1/16" IN (measured with toe plates)
Leave the caster stock if you are tempted. It's fine as is.

Tire pressures are somewhat dependent on how aggressive/advanced a driver you are.
Intermediate driver would start at 30-31 psi cold
Advanced driver would start at 28psi cold. Goal is around 34-35 psi coming off track (again for Cup2)

 

[MandoGt350R]

Thanks gentlemen. I’m an intermediate driver and will be using the cup2’s.

 

[pilotgore]

Thanks gentlemen. I’m an intermediate driver and will be using the cup2’s.

I agree with 34 psi hot for cup 2’s. While on track I keep the tire pressure screen up so I can monitor pressures. Start 27-28psi cold and you’ll be good.

 

[Tomster]

Every track is different requiring different alignments. Start with the factory settings and test temperatures and observe wear patterns, adjust as needed until you settle on what works.

There is no "one size fits all" when it comes to track alignments.

 

[MandoGt350R]

Anyone know of a good performance shop that does these performance track numbers in the Houston area?

 

[MandoGt350R]

Ok, found a shop.

I can tell you what worked on my friends car, a 2017 GT350 that was primary used for track use, and we did A LOT of fiddling with alignment settings. Also, this is somewhat dependent for what brand/type of tire you are running. What I list below is what we found worked best for CUP2s.
Front Camber: -2.5
Rear Camber: -2.25
Front Toe: 1/32" OUT
Rear Toe: 1/16" IN (measured with toe plates)
Leave the caster stock if you are tempted. It's fine as is.

Tire pressures are somewhat dependent on how aggressive/advanced a driver you are.
Intermediate driver would start at 30-31 psi cold
Advanced driver would start at 28psi cold. Goal is around 34-35 psi coming off track (again for Cup2)

Ok, found a shop. Guess I’ll go with your settings.

 

[VictorH]

I think you'll find it's a good all-around set up. Tire wear, in our experience, was even across the tread front and rear. Your alignment shop might not like the front toe out as it wouldn't be stock on any car. A good performance shop wouldn't have any trouble with this set up.

 

[pilotgore]

I think you'll find it's a good all-around set up. Tire wear, in our experience, was even across the tread front and rear. Your alignment shop might not like the front toe out as it wouldn't be stock on any car. A good performance shop wouldn't have any trouble with this set up.

I’m just curious what the wisdom is behind your buddy running toe out, which would induce oversteer…. Usually not a great thing for an intermediate.

I think you’re much better off with toe in personally, especially in the front.

 

[VictorH]

I'm sorry that is incorrect. Toe out in the rear is what drift cars run, that's what causes oversteer. Toe out in the front only, helps with initial turn-in to be crisper and more responsive. It does NOT cause oversteer.

 

[pilotgore]

Ok, found a shop.

Ok, found a shop. Guess I’ll go with your settings.

You may want to read posts #17 and #18 in this thread: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...lignment-in-or-out.142115/page-2#post-2915804

Billy Johnson (the Ford development driver for the gt350 and gt500) discusses the benefits of toe in vs out and why he doesn’t recommend toe out.

Then Kevin aka honey badger (one of the most respected gt350 track guys on the forum) recommends the same.

I just didn’t want to see you make a mistake that may make the car handle less than phenomenal on track. The factory recommended alignment really is pretty good. . . .But more negative camber the better.

 

[pilotgore]

I'm sorry that is incorrect. Toe out in the rear is what drift cars run, that's what causes oversteer. Toe out in the front only, helps with initial turn-in to be crisper and more responsive. It does NOT cause oversteer.

That is incorrect. Toe- out in the front or rear can cause oversteer…. Toe-in in the front or rear induce understeer. I’m not saying 1/16’th will make a massive difference for oversteer (but it will some), but the farther you move away from 0, the greater the effect.

Also, in the post I referenced above, Billy Johnson discusses how toe in actually improves turn in grip because the loaded front tire is already pointed into the turn.

 

[VictorH]

Well, I think perhaps you might be thinking we're talking about something significant. When I say toe-out we are talking about 0.07 degrees out. Basically the wheels are straight. I've run both in and slightly out. I prefer out and don't feel any difference under braking.

To each his own. I didn't say this was 'BEST" I said it worked for my friend's car and I have driven it extensively on track. I know what I like and that's my preference. If someone prefers another set up, I won't argue that with anyone.

However, I would be curious to hear the explanation for how toe-out in front causes over-steer.

 

[pilotgore]

Well, I think perhaps you might be thinking we're talking about something significant. When I say toe-out we are talking about 0.07 degrees out. Basically the wheels are straight. I've run both in and slightly out. I prefer out and don't feel any difference under braking.

To each his own. I didn't say this was 'BEST" I said it worked for my friend's car and I have driven it extensively on track. I know what I like and that's my preference. If someone prefers another set up, I won't argue that with anyone.

However, I would be curious to hear the explanation for how toe-out in front causes over-steer.

By definition, oversteer is the tendency of a car to turn more sharply than intended.

Pointing ANY of the tires away from the centerline of travel will decrease stability, giving it the tendency to turn more sharply than intended. Pointing the tires in has the opposite effect, making the car more stable.

Feel free to google it if you’re interested in reading more.

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