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honeybadger

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In situations like this, it's extremely help to have telemetry/data/video to see how driver input is affecting the issues. I know for me, at least 50% of my "setup" issues include the nut behind the wheel.

I also advocate that people should try and drive their tires to the very of their life. The last few heat cycles can teach you so much about driving the car at the limit on freshies.
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Egparson202

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I also advocate that people should try and drive their tires to the very of their life. The last few heat cycles can teach you so much about driving the car at the limit on freshies.
Ugh! I wish you hadnā€™t said that. Or maybe I already did enough to warrant replacement. During this past weekend my 350R-spec Cup2ā€™s heat cycled down to 0.5 seconds slower than my 200TW Goodyears (same track, same weather, +24 hours). I definitely experienced some handling at (and beyond) the limit. I saw enough degradation that I donā€™t think theyā€™ll go another weekend. Or at least theyā€™ve lost enough that they might not pass a risk/reward analysis.

So itā€™s a subjective decision I know, but Iā€™m inclined to replace them with the new Contiā€™s. Permission to replace?
 

honeybadger

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Do you have current pics of them? The only risk, IMHO, is the tires fully delaminating. And cup2s go a lot further than many think. I try not to replace them until theyā€™re chunking.

Not surprising to hear about them being slow. Even new, theyā€™re not that far ahead of those 200 TW Goodyears. Those are incredible tires for the life they give. But back on track, the Cup2s lose a really good chunk of speed after 7-8 heat cycles IME.

If it were me, Iā€™d run them until they chunk- only replacing them if they wonā€™t make it through the track day and I didnā€™t have spare wheels with another set of tires.

As I alluded to, heat cycled out tires are really good for developing your skills. They wonā€™t the bite of fresh tires, so youā€™ll need to manage the carā€™s balance a lot more gently to still get speed out of them. Heat cycled tires arenā€™t dangerous, they just expose bad habits. They wonā€™t accept aggressive turn in, poor braking habits, etc.

Hereā€™s some video of when I was breaking in my motor last year. This was my second session on this motor with (2) year old tires that were most definitely heat cycled out.



Hereā€™s another video using the exact same set of tires (2) months later. This time they were turning blue they were so hard. Same lap time, but more slippery. I was able to figure out how to manage them pretty well. Pay attention to turn 11, specifically, to see where I didnā€™t manage them so weā€™ll. Ha.




By the end of the May weekend. Those tires had a miraculous 34 session on them. Longest life yet šŸ˜‚
 

NoXiDe

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In situations like this, it's extremely help to have telemetry/data/video to see how driver input is affecting the issues. I know for me, at least 50% of my "setup" issues include the nut behind the wheel.

I also advocate that people should try and drive their tires to the very of their life. The last few heat cycles can teach you so much about driving the car at the limit on freshies.
Heck yeah, I'm on 39 heat cycles on my Cup2... lol, I'm hoping for another 39 this year too. I can't keep up with the Porsche guys that throw away hoosiers after 7 heat cycles. That's just fine tho, I ain't complaining.

Disclaimer: Running Cup2 Porsche Spec which is x2 the life.
 
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WItoTX

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Suggest 31mm spacer with r length studs if going square
Not sure Iā€™d call it poser points. There are definitely other benefits - wider front track, etc. The other thing Iā€™d highlight is that it just gives you more flexibility. Some tires run wide (305 GY 3R is as wide as a 315 Cup2), add more camber without having strut issues, bump up to a wider wheel in the future, etc.

25mm w/ 315 Hoosiers


31mm with 305s and moar camber (which results in better wear and grip)


Besides, the R hubs you bought are perfect for the 31mm spacer from Tim at OP Mustang.
Can you educate me on the R hubs? I've added camber plates, and am at -3 on the front. There is still plenty of clearance with 305 R660's, but want to go 315 square on new rims.

I just need some place to start researching, unless the factory hub is the way to go. And searching this site, I clearly have not found the right key words yet.
 

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svttim

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Used this on slicks when I wanted to get more life out of them (especially purple crack) I'm a true believer in it. It does not make the tire stickier but it restores moisture in the rubber that heat cycling destroys.

Traction.jpg
 

honeybadger

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Can you educate me on the R hubs? I've added camber plates, and am at -3 on the front. There is still plenty of clearance with 305 R660's, but want to go 315 square on new rims.

I just need some place to start researching, unless the factory hub is the way to go. And searching this site, I clearly have not found the right key words yet.
Are you running the stock wheels or wheels with stock offsets? If so, I wouldn't worry about it. My comment above was specifically for those running aftermarket wheels that use extended studs and spacers so they can rotate wheels.
 

WItoTX

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Are you running the stock wheels or wheels with stock offsets? If so, I wouldn't worry about it. My comment above was specifically for those running aftermarket wheels that use extended studs and spacers so they can rotate wheels.
This is exactly what I want to do. I've searched the forum, and not really found clear information on this. I am sure it's there, I just haven't found a clean thread on the topic.

I am currently factory rims (10.5's and 11's), 305/30 front and 315/30 rear.

I could probably start a new thread instead of hijacking OP's. Just figured it might be as easy as pointing me in the right direction.
 

jmn444

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This is exactly what I want to do. I've searched the forum, and not really found clear information on this. I am sure it's there, I just haven't found a clean thread on the topic.

I am currently factory rims (10.5's and 11's), 305/30 front and 315/30 rear.

I could probably start a new thread instead of hijacking OP's. Just figured it might be as easy as pointing me in the right direction.
19x11 square 50mm offset, and extended studs up front with 25mm slip on spacers.
 

jmn444

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also will need open lug nuts if swapping back and forth to oem wheels... i prefer open either way though.
 

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honeybadger

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This is exactly what I want to do. I've searched the forum, and not really found clear information on this. I am sure it's there, I just haven't found a clean thread on the topic.

I am currently factory rims (10.5's and 11's), 305/30 front and 315/30 rear.

I could probably start a new thread instead of hijacking OP's. Just figured it might be as easy as pointing me in the right direction.
Gotcha! My recommendation would 19x11 or 19x11.5 with 52mm offsets and run 31mm spacers up front. These are the hubs I run with upgraded R length studs. You can also buy just the studs and press them in if you don't want to replace the hubs too (having extra hubs is never a bad thing, tho).

https://www.opmustang.com/store/p31..._Hub_Assemblies_With_Racing_Wheel_Stud.html#/

This is the spacer I run

https://www.opmustang.com/store/p302/31MM_Hub_Centric_-_Wheel_Centric_-_Wheel_Spacer_-_Pair.html#/
 

azshelby350

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This has been a really informative thread. To add a few more bits of info after reading the recent comments, I am beginning to think that it was ā€œmeā€ causing the understeer ā€” the particular corner that was causing me the major issue is a decreasing radius 180 with a very late apex. Perhaps I was carrying too much speed and turned in too early. That being said, Iā€™m still going to experiment with toe out soon just to see how it feels.
 

azshelby350

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19x11 square 50mm offset, and extended studs up front with 25mm slip on spacers.
Same here - 52mm offset Apex 19x11 wheels square with Apex 25mm spacers. Using ARP extended studs as well.

E01CACD0-3913-41B8-8013-AC93E9B3AA4D.jpeg
 

KyleFullRace

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Hey hey I saw your car at west. I can confirm west's track surface is famously terrible lol. But Im surprised you had so much understeer in the carousel (Im assuming youre talking about turns 9/10 aka 8-11). Were you the one who had Rich ride along on Sunday? He got in someone's 350 (forgot which group) and I was watching from the fence on that side of the track.
 

azshelby350

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Hey hey I saw your car at west. I can confirm west's track surface is famously terrible lol. But Im surprised you had so much understeer in the carousel (Im assuming youre talking about turns 9/10 aka 8-11). Were you the one who had Rich ride along on Sunday? He got in someone's 350 (forgot which group) and I was watching from the fence on that side of the track.
I was only out there on Saturday. But yeah I was surprised by how much my car was pushing in that corner.
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