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Torn diff bushings

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moffetts

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Looks like McMaster has what I need. These are grade 12.9 like the BMR parts and they are the same size/length as what come with the Whiteline kit.
bolts.jpg
 

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Just throwing this out, Energy Suspension, Polyurethane ?

Grade 8 bolts easy replacement for the Whiteline kit.
 

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That samething happened to me. Dealer replaced the entire irs cradle. I put the steeda stop the hop kit in it to prevent it from happening again.
 

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The Whiteline kit is lovely. Yes there is some (minor) increase in noise but I'll never go back.
 

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shogun32

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Got the RH017 hardware in today and I am confused as to how this is supposed to work.
The 2 are completely unrelated. RH017 is for people still using the Ford bushings, with an optional lock-out kit, NOT wholesale replacement like the Whiteline.
 
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moffetts

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Yep, that much is clear now. That kit is going back and I will be replacing the stock hardware with the higher grade socket-head pieces from McMaster. Good to hear there is a minimal increase in NVH, since these appear to be a lot stiffer than the stock rubber that is completely thrashed now.
 
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moffetts

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Got the new mcmaster bolts in today. The thread length is a little different from the whiteline hardware but it's close enough. The bolt on the right is one of the rear bolts from the RH017 kit.
image0(1).jpeg
 

shogun32

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If I had the chance to do it over again I'd drill out the threaded ear on the diff cover and run the bolt 'backwards' and secured with a nut at the back. That way you'd have the shank of the bolt in shear and not the bloody threads. Ford engineering needs a good smack upside the head.

Looks like McMaster has what I need.
except not really. black oxide is only mildly resistant to corrosion in DRY environments. The diff is under constant assault by water and winter salt. At the very least those bolts need to be stripped and re-coated with (yellow) zinc. Or painted. You might be able to get away with coating the entirety in axle grease (doesn't wash off) but adjust your torque values accordingly.
 
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moffetts

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Well, we certainly don’t have any road salt here and it doesn’t rain very much. I still have the option of using the original hardware, I suppose.
 

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shogun32

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I still have the option of using the original hardware, I suppose.
what is the objection with the Whiteline hardware? The grade 12 'fix' is intended for the original dumb-ass design and it's freedom of motion.

You have ocean on 2 sides of you, salt-water corrosion from suspended droplets is very much a thing.
 

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I went directly to BMR's full poly diff mount. NVH will be increased, but you actually drill out the threads on the diff ears and bolt all the way through the ear instead of tightening a bolt and applying torsional pressure on the diff. It's more of a "floating" setup now.
92704385_218863679445090_5446934510413283328_n.jpg
 
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moffetts

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what is the objection with the Whiteline hardware? The grade 12 'fix' is intended for the original dumb-ass design and it's freedom of motion.

You have ocean on 2 sides of you, salt-water corrosion from suspended droplets is very much a thing.
Just wanted to use the higher grade hardware if possible. Realistically, I don’t see myself shearing anything off regardless of grade, but, I’d rather do this once.
 

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if you have the whiteline bushings you won't be shearing anything unless you're WAAY up there in hp, like north of 800. The Ford dumb-ass design is what was causing bolts to shear thru.
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