Top Mount Turbo Kits

[gimmie11s]

i would never want anything other than a top mount set up

I'm the exact opposite. I would never want them in the engine bay. Way too much heat by the radiator and other plastic components. Down low they take the place of the cats in an area designed to take a lot of heat.

I have a low mount TT set up.

I'd prefer a top mount single for simplicity and looks. At the time I installed my kit (almost 4 years ago) there wasn't much being offered.

4 years later, my setup works just fine and produce great power. It just isn't much to look at under the hood.

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[gcadorette13]

Aldo has a top mount for mustang... I only see for f150. Hook me up.

Huh, sure enough it's not on his site. I guess that would be something you would need to talk to him about. He has made top mount kits for Mustangs. Maybe those were just one offs

 

[illtal]

Huh, sure enough it's not on his site. I guess that would be something you would need to talk to him about. He has made top mount kits for Mustangs. Maybe those were just one offs

one off sound more $$$$ i'll just go my fabricator route instead

 

[illtal]

I'm the exact opposite. I would never want them in the engine bay. Way too much heat by the radiator and other plastic components. Down low they take the place of the cats in an area designed to take a lot of heat.

I hope to have mine done, but I'll be using some exotic shielding for the sensitive stuff.
I mean there's nothing explicitly wrong with a low mount/mid mount; however, the oiling situation is precarious at best in that position. and it only takes one good tug at speed and you're losing oil from the system. That's my main gripe.

Hellion's Dry sump mechanical setup its likely the best I've seen constant suction and tanks. But in the case of low mount I would take a journal bearing setup down there instead of a BB setup.

 

[gimmie11s]

Oiling solution is easy as pie. Ive been dd'ing my car for a few months since the motor is back together and it works flawlessly.

Even better now that im running a brand-name Marco (Italian made) scavenge pump. It is quiet and works amazing.

Truly a non issue.


My only gripe about the low mount is you don't get to see any of that goodness in the engine bay!

 

[illtal]

Oiling solution is easy as pie. Ive been dd'ing my car for a few months since the motor is back together and it works flawlessly.

Even better now that im running a brand-name Marco (Italian made) scavenge pump. It is quiet and works amazing.

Truly a non issue.


My only gripe about the low mount is you don't get to see any of that goodness in the engine bay!

I'm sure many will agree with you. it still doesn't take away the probability of it happening.
I'll have to get up under one and see how exposed anything dealing with oiling truly is again. I looked at partially completed hellion and I didn't have too much to complain about. I actually think fatfabs tank and setup is probably the most tucked.

Maybe you've had the luck, I live in an area where my car's headers has touched down (it is lowered). I've had my 14 GS F-Sport blow out a tire ON THE INTERSTATE due to a huge pothole. This year in a rental, I had some road work stuff blow across the road and damage the front fascia and the undercarriage.

Those pumps are good and fairly quiet. I remember doing a ton of research on them when I considered the CX kit as well.

 

[gimmie11s]

I get the aprehension. Before I had this set up I had similar feelings.

 

[Proshop]

@illtal why not go Comp air cooled/oil less?

 

[illtal]

@illtal why not go Comp air cooled/oil less?

I don't want to buy grease get under my car and contort myself every 3000 miles. That stuff isn't cheap either.

If I am to do a low mount (it is on the table). I would probably not do comps for that reason, and one other reason.

 

[Proshop]

I don't want to buy grease get under my car and contort myself every 3000 miles. That stuff isn't cheap either.

If I am to do a low mount (it is on the table). I would probably not do comps for that reason, and one other reason.

What’s the other reason?

 

[illtal]

What’s the other reason?

Even though I think right now they are likely the 4th (maybe 3rd) best turbo manufacturer out there, I can't really see myself buying a turbo without seeing a compressor map (ESPECIALLY AT THE PRICES THESE COMPANIES ASK).

Xona Rotor, Turbonetics, and Precision. is the same way.
I am super interested in the new turbonetics tnx c15 series as they have improved a lot of things. Can't get a compressor map so fuck it.

 

[tdstuart]

you have 3 options on3 single/twin paramount twin which is a copy of the on3 but they use proto titan to make the parts so the quality will be MUCH better. They use T4 flanges instead of V Band like on 3. Problem is that kit costs 8800 before you add turbos. Hellion top mount twin. Then you have BL fab top mount single.

You might actually come out better fabbing up your own kit like me with a good fabricatior. problem with top mounts is the exhaust routing, AC lines, coolant lines, steering rod, PCM, and wiring. Something will be in the way. An aftermarket K member will help immensely.

My car is lowered and my headers have touched down on speed humps. I do no want a low mount for that reason and using comps will get you past that but the maintenance would be a bitch down there. no thanks.

Thought about trying to piece together my own turbo kit using oil-less turbos. Passenger side exhaust routing looks hard af. Was thinking best solution may be to move the battery and throw the passenger side turbo where the battery box usually is. Then route intake pipping next to the engine. As for the driver just put the driver side turbo where the air box would be.

Problem is I don't know shit about turbos and have no experience fabricating. Just have some friends that can weld lmao.

 

[illtal]

Thought about trying to piece together my own turbo kit using oil-less turbos. Passenger side exhaust routing looks hard af. Was thinking best solution may be to move the battery and throw the passenger side turbo where the battery box usually is. Then route intake pipping next to the engine. As for the driver just put the driver side turbo where the air box would be.

Problem is I don't know shit about turbos and have no experience fabricating. Just have some friends that can weld lmao.

Me thinks you got it backwards, if you try to run it in a standard configuration the driver's side with the steering rod is all in the way.

On the passenger side you have the AC line (which you can replace) and the fusebox/ECU & harness

But you can go under the engine, it limits downpipe sizing options, if you use standard tubing.

if you have an aftermarket KMember there are more places to get those downpipes placed.

 

[tdstuart]

Me thinks you got it backwards, if you try to run it in a standard configuration the driver's side with the steering rod is all in the way.

On the passenger side you have the AC line (which you can replace) and the fusebox/ECU & harness

But you can go under the engine, it limits downpipe sizing options, if you use standard tubing.

if you have an aftermarket KMember there are more places to get those downpipes placed.

Maybe, just from what I looked at there is not much room on the passenger side to route the exhaust pipping up and back down again (due to ac lines, ac compressor, and how the engine is positioned). It looks like the driver side has tons of room to route exhaust lines and didn't look like steering shaft would be much of an issue. Just go around it.

 

[illtal]

Maybe, just from what I looked at there is not much room on the passenger side to route the exhaust pipping up and back down again (due to ac lines, ac compressor, and how the engine is positioned). It looks like the driver side has tons of room to route exhaust lines and didn't look like steering shaft would be much of an issue. Just go around it.

Depending on what you use for manifolds will determine what kind of problem you will have. You can miss all the problems by going under the engine or mounts.

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