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noshine4mine

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We finished installing the engine last night and ran it. So I ran into some problems. First. my blow off valves were staying open at idle. We took off the vacuum lines and plugged them and the car ran better. However when running the RPM up to let it pull itself back down I am getting a misfire code for 4 and 7. it will go away on its own and at idle it runs smooth. I can also get it to throw misfire codes every time by holding fourth gear and when it hits 4k I get the misfire codes.
before engine installation I deleted the IRMC but I didnt remove the sensor attached to the back of the manifold. also It has not been turned off in the tune so I get the IRMC codes, but I expected that (can IRMC codes/delete cause misfire codes?) That sensor has a vacuum line that attached to the back of the intake and I tapped into it for the boost reference of the Boost controller. The whole time the Boost controller was reading roughly -20 to -25 even when I was approaching 0 vacuum. The engine has less than 25 miles on it and not once did we get into boost and everytime I got the RPM up to 4 to 4.5 I was extremely gentle (-15 on the PP1 gauge not ever under a load). I am sure I am asking a stupid question but, do your BOVs stay closed at idle? The driver side breather is also letting off gases intermittantly (I guess rings not being seated is part of it.) The Passenger side less so but also does it some.

Looking for some insight. I dont know what else I need to add, if more information is needed just ask. Not to happy it is having problems. I am thinking about getting a base tune as I am still running on the tune from when the Turbo kit was installed. Me and a friend are concerned the original tune is just trash. We are not sure if the BOVs were staying open originally and maybe they tried to tune around it not knowing they were wide open.
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Zrussian13

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Pretty sure they should be open at idle and close as soon as you hit the gas. Then they should stay closed until you let off and vacuum fron the manifold opens them back up.
 

wazslow

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To be honest after reading your post about when/how the engine was hurt right after installing the turbo setup, I would start over with a reputable remote tuner (Lund/PBD/Wengerd). Start fresh with idle and Rev logs with a new tuner. Don't hurt a brand new engine to save a few bucks at this point.
 

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noshine4mine

noshine4mine

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Yea, the tune appears to be bad. And Turbo Smart confirmed the BOV should be closed at idle. Likely has the weakest spring they make in the BOV.

Where did ya'll tap into vacuum for the boost controller to read boost/vacuum?
 

Zrussian13

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Yea, the tune appears to be bad. And Turbo Smart confirmed the BOV should be closed at idle. Likely has the weakest spring they make in the BOV.

Where did ya'll tap into vacuum for the boost controller to read boost/vacuum?
Damn, now I'm going to have to pull my bumper and double check my bov's. I swear last time I was in there they were open at idle...
 

Jackson1320

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OK don't take your bumper off and your tune is probably fine. first your blow off valve should be getting a reference from your Turbo or your charge pipe but not from the manifold. If you have it getting reference anywhere on the manifold it will keep them open at idle. your boost controller can get reference from the manifold not the bov's

let me make sure I understand correctly You took off the vacuum lines from your blow off valve and plug them and you can't figure out why you can't make boost? are you serious?

You just turned your bov's into two huge boost leaks. you're dumping all your boost.

The reason that you're misfiring is because you're not making any boost. Your maf is seeing all this air so it's fueling for it but You're just dumping it all the fuel you're dumping in their is causing misfires and f@cking up your new engine
 
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Jackson1320

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Yea, the tune appears to be bad. And Turbo Smart confirmed the BOV should be closed at idle. Likely has the weakest spring they make in the BOV.

Where did ya'll tap into vacuum for the boost controller to read boost/vacuum?
It doesn't matter what spring you have in there if you have them bov's hooked up to the manifold they're going to open
 
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noshine4mine

noshine4mine

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It doesn't matter what spring you have in there if you have them bov's hooked up to the manifold they're going to open
You misses what I said. I was looking for the boost reference for the boost controller. I ended up running it off the one of the vacuum ports behind the throttle body. The Eboost2 started displaying correctly after.
The BOVs were connected and they were wide open at idle. no amount of adjustment would close them. Turbo Smart confirmed they should be closed and likely had the lightest spring in them (we confirmed the spring was the light one last night). I order two new springs from turbosmart the "white spring" which is what it should have come with when I purchased the kit. The installed spring in the BOV currently were the -7inHG (Grey). The spring turbosmart said that is needed for a coyote is -21inHg, Low -19inHg (White Spring).

As far as the tune goes. We now know they tuned the car with the BOVs wide open. The tune needs to be adjusted. Once we disconnected the BOVs and plugged the hoses the car ran way better. Since I am still breaking it in I am not getting into boost anyway.

I did the tune read of the car last night and uploaded it through the TDN app. Hopefully I will get a revised tune today or tomorrow. The TDN app is super cool.
 

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Jackson1320

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You misses what I said. I was looking for the boost reference for the boost controller. I ended up running it off the one of the vacuum ports behind the throttle body. The Eboost2 started displaying correctly after.
The BOVs were connected and they were wide open at idle. no amount of adjustment would close them. Turbo Smart confirmed they should be closed and likely had the lightest spring in them (we confirmed the spring was the light one last night). I order two new springs from turbosmart the "white spring" which is what it should have come with when I purchased the kit. The installed spring in the BOV currently were the -7inHG (Grey). The spring turbosmart said that is needed for a coyote is -21inHg, Low -19inHg (White Spring).

As far as the tune goes. We now know they tuned the car with the BOVs wide open. The tune needs to be adjusted. Once we disconnected the BOVs and plugged the hoses the car ran way better. Since I am still breaking it in I am not getting into boost anyway.

I did the tune read of the car last night and uploaded it through the TDN app. Hopefully I will get a revised tune today or tomorrow. The TDN app is super cool.
i prefer the mpvi2
 

15GTPP

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I’ve got my bov’s, fuel regulator, and boost controller all connected to the same vacuum block. I don’t have any issues that I know of running it like this.

53AC828B-52AE-4C83-8B33-C25B95132876.jpeg


E21AFCD7-4C06-41E9-A857-8FBFA8FEA1F5.jpeg
 

gimmie11s

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I’ve got my bov’s, fuel regulator, and boost controller all connected to the same vacuum block. I don’t have any issues that I know of running it like this.

53AC828B-52AE-4C83-8B33-C25B95132876.jpeg


E21AFCD7-4C06-41E9-A857-8FBFA8FEA1F5.jpeg
Where does that vacuum block get its vacuum source from? The intake manifold?
 

15GTPP

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Where does that vacuum block get its vacuum source from? The intake manifold?
My bad I guess resizing the picture messed up the quality. Yeah, off the manifold. The main source is the high lighted line.

1FE8FE97-A4E2-4960-84CA-9BA1D826C573.jpeg
 

gimmie11s

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My bad I guess resizing the picture messed up the quality. Yeah, off the manifold. The main source is the high lighted line.

1FE8FE97-A4E2-4960-84CA-9BA1D826C573.jpeg
that's exactly where my vacuum source comes from too. I use that signal for my FPR, BOV, waste gates and boost controller.
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