Today is header install day

[Duece McCracken]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...n-2019-dhg-bullitt.169525/page-3#post-3448325

Not sure how much this will help, but it's at least some reference material, lmfao

ARH Bottleneck eliminator, meowless, full 3" to my Borla ATAK

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[PC_GUARD]

Ok everyone so here is the update. The pypes header fit is great, no issues, other than getting them hung on your back by yourself is a real PITA, especially when I had to pull ALL the studs and the gasket was being a PITA. I also screwed up when i bought 02's and went brain dead thinking i needed f150 02's for the rear for extra harness and gt's in front... Well DOPE, ummm no, its the other way around.

Things that shouldnt be difficult are tedious and all around mind numbing aggravating. For example. Pulling the starter all very straight forward, but couldnt get and angle on that top hidden bolt without taking the engine bracket out, which on pass side needs to go. I zipped out all the bolts on the bracket no sweat, except for, the ground strap and the stud behind it. The angle to get good purchase on that nut is awful, and I cannot even explain why, that was 2 hrs of willing to have a fire in my garage...


I did figure out a short cut, which will mean almost zero for drivers side but it will still shrink up some time. Obviously spray PB wd weasel piss of choice on everything before you get there. Break the nuts on the factory headers just get the tension off them, then immediately go to your 1/4" and pull the studs, no sense in 16 trips around the flange.


Another odd thing, so pulling the studs out, they appear to slightly mar the aluminum threads. What I mean is, as youre winding them out you can see aluminum flakes, I had no trouble getting things to thread back in, just fount it odd. I almost get the impression (i could be wrong) the provisions for the studs are raw on the assembly line, and they just pneumatically wind the studs in, cutting the threads in one shot<<<<< mere speculation


I did not have or even know where to look for a thick yellow pages, so I grabbed the first thick book i found in the house "Arnold Schwarzenegger, encyclopedia of body building" ive had this book for years, and been through it a lot 20 yrs ago... Well screw that guy anyway youre supporting my engine. I used a 2x8 and the book on the oil pan, no issues


So in my 10 ish hour adventure yesterday, Passenger side hung bolted up, drivers side un bolted but a couple. I need to run to harbor fright this morning to get a torx set, which i kinda figured i'd end up going. Also need/should replace the jam nut for the ground strap on engine mount bracket.



Side note observations, The boot on my motor mount is all disconnected, is this an issue? I also noticed my starter was lousy with clutch dust, the nose of it looked like my wheels after a weekend drive. Ill clean it up with brake clean before reinstalling, but at 60k on the clock, I'd guess clutch isnt too far from leaving this world.


Just random nonsense, The test pipes installed were well done, 3" mandrel bent nice welds and no weirdness on the the drivers side, pretty well done. I need to look at my cat side of my kit and figure what needs to happen to plumb it all back in off the headers. I probably should get 2 more band clamps, metal sawzall blade.


I will add more when i am finished, yesterday was a BITCH, that concrete floor is AWESOME... not so much.

Edit
More additional information: I got my pypes from Beefcake, I am in Nw Fl. I dropped my money to him last weds, I believe. I had my headers on saturday, well they were to be delivered on saturday but the 5 minutes i left the house ups showed.. lol Anyway, I wanted to give credit to one of the vendors here, he put a nice deal together for me, and got me my stuff QUICKLY.

 

[PC_GUARD]

Oh, I havent had the stomach to go look at it this morning but, in my sleep I was thinking if the motor is mostly loose, can I sneak the header (drivers side) down through though the top without undoing the steering shaft? Or am I just having wishful thinking? I havent any experience with these s550 cars, I know on sn95 the shaft goes through the tubes, more or less and isnt an option.

 

[Duece McCracken]

Oh, I havent had the stomach to go look at it this morning but, in my sleep I was thinking if the motor is mostly loose, can I sneak the header (drivers side) down through though the top without undoing the steering shaft? Or am I just having wishful thinking? I havent any experience with these s550 cars, I know on sn95 the shaft goes through the tubes, more or less and isnt an option.

I highly doubt you can fish it in from the top. The collector and overall length, plus how the individual tubes run, thats a lot to manipulate. The angle of the head makes a pinch point at the strut tower and bump out for the frame motor mount.

I just did what every other dick and jane does, from underneath.

Heck, i think I used like 90 percent of the studs, which increased difficulty, lol

 

[PC_GUARD]

I highly doubt you can fish it in from the top. The collector and overall length, plus how the individual tubes run, thats a lot to manipulate. The angle of the head makes a pinch point at the strut tower and bump out for the frame motor mount.

I just did what every other dick and jane does, from underneath.

Heck, i think I used like 90 percent of the studs, which increased difficulty, lol

I used 2 studs bolted the rest and on the top of pass side shouldve used studs, because it's a bitch staying on the bolts.

What is weird I'm WAY WAY over the top equipped in my shop, for a homeowner harry, and this job has definitely taxed my available tools.


I kinda figured I was having a pipe dream thinking

 

[NGOT8R]

@PC_GUARD, stay with it, you’re almost done. Pretty soon you’ll be smiling from ear to ear when you hit that start button.

 

[Duece McCracken]

I used 2 studs bolted the rest and on the top of pass side shouldve used studs, because it's a bitch staying on the bolts.

What is weird I'm WAY WAY over the top equipped in my shop, for a homeowner harry, and this job has definitely taxed my available tools.


I kinda figured I was having a pipe dream thinking

Lmao! I have quite the amount of tools at this point as well. I'm a driveway wizard though, the garage is booked up with crap.

Long tubes are considered one of the more difficult jobs for the platform, so tackling it off jackstands gets you immense street cred. All the street cred. Incredible amounts. Superb levels. Lmfao

 

[PaddyPrix]

You can make a set of these dirt cheap very safe very high. I have a set 36”

I highly recommend those, best $100ish I've ever invested.

Stick with it too. Took me a week as coworkers decided to forget everything I've taught them that week. It's a huge accomplishment, especially if you leave the A/C lines in, because dear God... there's maybe one ratchet click for most of the passenger side, and everything is impossible to get to. When you get done though, you'll be able to clang beers with your bloody knuckles and tell people you endured what is arguably the most painful and difficult there is to be done on these cars, and it's honestly all downhill from there.

 

[PC_GUARD]

Ok everything is done besides a shake down and a couple of extra things im doing while i have the car apart.

Passenger side is in theory is 50% of the job, but its actually 5% of the work lol


I work from home and had a few things i thought were on cruise control but kept pulling me off my screwing off instead of working, very annoying lol So I get everything wrapped up around 10pm last night except for, the top motor mount nuts, airbox, and battery.


This morning, ill knock that out and provide images of completed project and sound clip.


I bought a bmr 2 point cross brace, and I need to install my reiche 170 t stat, for obvious reasons i saved that for when i was no longer going to be under the car.


PSA: There are rumors that you can take the battery box apart and reach the back bolt, as near as i can tell, NO. At least not with a PP car, not without undoing WAY too much stuff. The car being jacked up, and pulling the battery out of the box is something. Im in good shape but getting that 60lb battery up out of the box, without a strap tests your grip strength lol


On one of my collectors, the outer edge of the header was dinged in shipping or in the shop. Preparing for the this job I bought a pipe expander, and worked that in there and made that round again.

Ive seen some old posts bitching about pypes fitting poorly. This was NOT the case for me and everything fit perfectly fine. No issues with fitment, or needing to clearance anything.

Because I had a custom exhaust setup, I had concerns (still kinda do) over everything lining up properly at the OE resonator I had installed. With a little finessing no issue at all.


I dont know if this is the case with all catted header "kits" for mine, first (assuming youre on the floor like I was) Slide your floor jack under your X pipe/Resonator/H pipe whatever, and get it level with the car. I have a pretty good eye, so I used the seam on the resonator keep margin with my rocker extensions as I worked the jack.

Next: I put the band clamp on the new section of pipe FIRST slip it onto the the resonator, AND THEN, swing it up to the collector, throw the bolts into the collector flange to just hold everything, then begin leveling and square everything up, and tighten the band side enough to just friction fit/hold pulled everything tight with the collector flange, allowing to back of the band clamp if needed. <<<< Right or wrong thats how I did mine.

The one thing (band clamp exhaust is new for me in this context) I probably have approx 1" 1.5" of space INSIDE, could be less, but theres about a 3/4" reveal, at the back of both the connector pipe and the resonator coupler sections. To be more clear, from the back of the band clamp to where the pipe goes back to 2.5 outside diameter.

Is this something I should worry about, and have a section extended?





EDIT ADDED COMMENTARY: I find it very interesting the amount of carbon fouling inside the stock manifolds. I literally can scrape about a 1/8" of "gunk" out of the inside of any given pipe. Perhaps the car was cold run a lot before i got it. Start drive a mile and shut down, kind of thing. Pure trivial commentary, i wanted to add.

 

[PC_GUARD]

 

[NightmareMoon]

There's a shop not too far from me that installs these for $500 and did a great job. If I get headers again, I'm taking it right back to them. It's not that I can't do it myself but I would rather a professional with a lift install these versus cursing on my back under the car on jack stands.

Which shop? I'm in the area...

 

[ice445]

Ok everything is done besides a shake down and a couple of extra things im doing while i have the car apart.

Passenger side is in theory is 50% of the job, but its actually 5% of the work lol


I work from home and had a few things i thought were on cruise control but kept pulling me off my screwing off instead of working, very annoying lol So I get everything wrapped up around 10pm last night except for, the top motor mount nuts, airbox, and battery.


This morning, ill knock that out and provide images of completed project and sound clip.


I bought a bmr 2 point cross brace, and I need to install my reiche 170 t stat, for obvious reasons i saved that for when i was no longer going to be under the car.


PSA: There are rumors that you can take the battery box apart and reach the back bolt, as near as i can tell, NO. At least not with a PP car, not without undoing WAY too much stuff. The car being jacked up, and pulling the battery out of the box is something. Im in good shape but getting that 60lb battery up out of the box, without a strap tests your grip strength lol


On one of my collectors, the outer edge of the header was dinged in shipping or in the shop. Preparing for the this job I bought a pipe expander, and worked that in there and made that round again.

Ive seen some old posts bitching about pypes fitting poorly. This was NOT the case for me and everything fit perfectly fine. No issues with fitment, or needing to clearance anything.

Because I had a custom exhaust setup, I had concerns (still kinda do) over everything lining up properly at the OE resonator I had installed. With a little finessing no issue at all.


I dont know if this is the case with all catted header "kits" for mine, first (assuming youre on the floor like I was) Slide your floor jack under your X pipe/Resonator/H pipe whatever, and get it level with the car. I have a pretty good eye, so I used the seam on the resonator keep margin with my rocker extensions as I worked the jack.

Next: I put the band clamp on the new section of pipe FIRST slip it onto the the resonator, AND THEN, swing it up to the collector, throw the bolts into the collector flange to just hold everything, then begin leveling and square everything up, and tighten the band side enough to just friction fit/hold pulled everything tight with the collector flange, allowing to back of the band clamp if needed. <<<< Right or wrong thats how I did mine.

The one thing (band clamp exhaust is new for me in this context) I probably have approx 1" 1.5" of space INSIDE, could be less, but theres about a 3/4" reveal, at the back of both the connector pipe and the resonator coupler sections. To be more clear, from the back of the band clamp to where the pipe goes back to 2.5 outside diameter.

Is this something I should worry about, and have a section extended?





EDIT ADDED COMMENTARY: I find it very interesting the amount of carbon fouling inside the stock manifolds. I literally can scrape about a 1/8" of "gunk" out of the inside of any given pipe. Perhaps the car was cold run a lot before i got it. Start drive a mile and shut down, kind of thing. Pure trivial commentary, i wanted to add.

The carbon fouling inside the exhaust system IMO is just from fuel dumping for cat protection, and possibly some oil if yours burns any.

 

[PC_GUARD]

Ok took it out for a shake down. I have a slight creek, which appears to be an ac line bracket bolt that i didnt see. Waiting for it to cool down enough to get a hack saw blade down in there to cut the extra length off, and hopefully thats it.

When i first heard it, I thought it was a motor mount or something. I heard a "ping" which was either a dropped socket or any myriad of items that probably got dropped. Still makes your gut sink when you hear that.


As far as sound, it is MUCH MUCH quieter than the catless with factory header setup. I didnt get to really beat on it any because when I heard the "ping" and then the creek sound i nursed it back to the house until i could double check everything.

I can lug the car down to 1k now and there isnt any booming drone anywhere, anymore.


I may have to ditch the OE resonator and swap it for something a little more free, but we'll see.

 

[Soulja4187]

Ok took it out for a shake down. I have a slight creek, which appears to be an ac line bracket bolt that i didnt see. Waiting for it to cool down enough to get a hack saw blade down in there to cut the extra length off, and hopefully thats it.

When i first heard it, I thought it was a motor mount or something. I heard a "ping" which was either a dropped socket or any myriad of items that probably got dropped. Still makes your gut sink when you hear that.


As far as sound, it is MUCH MUCH quieter than the catless with factory header setup. I didnt get to really beat on it any because when I heard the "ping" and then the creek sound i nursed it back to the house until i could double check everything.

I can lug the car down to 1k now and there isnt any booming drone anywhere, anymore.


I may have to ditch the OE resonator and swap it for something a little more free, but we'll see.

Which headers did you purchase, where in Florida you from.

 

[PC_GUARD]

Which headers did you purchase, where in Florida you from.

Pypes catter headers

Im in NW FL In Panama City

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