Header Install Tips

[djman603]

I am planning on installing some SW LTH soon and have been reading up a bit on the forums on install guides as I plan to install them myself. I have mechanical experiences and it looks "easy" enough for me to do, however, many threads bring up some tips to make the process easier and ensure longevity. For example, retightening after finishing a heat cycle, only removing a certain amount of the factory studs, putting Loctite on the header studs/bolts, only taking the non-thread locked bolts off the engine mounts, etc. Any additional or confirming information/tips would be greatly appreciated.

Sponsored

 

[NGOT8R]

Here’s how I did mine alone and on jack stands. Hopefully the thread will contain some info. that may be of help to you.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bullitt-long-tube-header-installation.147899/page-2

 

[Whitedevil95]

I am planning on installing some SW LTH soon and have been reading up a bit on the forums on install guides as I plan to install them myself. I have mechanical experiences and it looks "easy" enough for me to do, however, many threads bring up some tips to make the process easier and ensure longevity. For example, retightening after finishing a heat cycle, only removing a certain amount of the factory studs, putting Loctite on the header studs/bolts, only taking the non-thread locked bolts off the engine mounts, etc. Any additional or confirming information/tips would be greatly appreciated.

Ive done a couple header jobs. Heres my 2c.

1. Start on the Passenger side. That's the hard side. It sucks. You need several different wrenches to complete. You need a 15mm swivel head, and a 15mm curved type wrench, and a 15mm ratcheting stubby. Then also some sockets with wobbles and such help for some.

2. Remove the motor mount on the k member as well, makes getting the old header out and the new one in much easier, primarily for the passenger side.

3. Try attacking some of the hard to reach bolts from the top, I found that to be a huge time saver. Especially the the front more nut near the AC Compressor. Swivel head from the top is much easier.

4. I Reused all of my studs and OEM Hardware.

 

[Jackson1320]

Lift the engine up as high as you can from the top. This is going to help a lot. Also remove the the battery tray and the part of the fire wall by the battery

 

[thelostotter]

I’d say skip the loctite, Ive done headers twice and never had a need for it. Plus it could make it a mega bitch to loosen them if you ever need to later down the road.

 

[deanm11]

I installed 1 7/8 Kooks and also removed them when I went back to stock. Agree and underscore much of what has been said:

- Don't even bother trying the passenger side without removing the complete engine mount (brackets first from bottom) on the right side. Consider removing the nuts from both engine mounts (from top with long 1/2 drive extensions) so that with a block of wood on bellhousing, you can raise the motor considerably and push it left and right a bit as needed.

- I didn't find the battery box/bracket removal to really help

- No loctite. Not there from factory

- Get a super thin, longish open-end wrench for the header bolt install. 11mm in case of Stage 8
bolts. i used all Stage 8 bolts except for 1 per side

- Absolutely get whatever you need to from the top. Lay some moving blankets of what not on your intake


Dean

 

[Red65]

Do yourself a HUGE favor and get a set of flex-head ratcheting wrenches. I was able to do both sides with a standard length flex head ratchet wrench on my ARH headers and it honestly knocked a few hours of bolt turning down to a few minutes. Worth every penny spent on the toolset.

 

[Jackson1320]

I installed 1 7/8 Kooks and also removed them when I went back to stock. Agree and underscore much of what has been said:

- Don't even bother trying the passenger side without removing the complete engine mount (brackets first from bottom) on the right side. Consider removing the nuts from both engine mounts (from top with long 1/2 drive extensions) so that with a block of wood on bellhousing, you can raise the motor considerably and push it left and right a bit as needed.

- I didn't find the battery box/bracket removal to really help

- No loctite. Not there from factory

- Get a super thin, longish open-end wrench for the header bolt install. 11mm in case of Stage 8
bolts. i used all Stage 8 bolts except for 1 per side

- Absolutely get whatever you need to from the top. Lay some moving blankets of what not on your intake


Dean

You removed the heat shield for the battery? The one that gives you direct access to most of the top bolts?

 

[deanm11]

You removed the heat shield for the battery? The one that gives you direct access to most of the top bolts?

On the original install I didn't. Going back to stock, I took it out and it just didn't seem that different to me.

 

[Jackson1320]

On the original install I didn't. Going back to stock, I took it out and it just didn't seem that different to me.

To each his own I guess. It helps me. That’s what I love about cars, people can have the same car and it’s still different to everyone

Sponsored