Tire recommendation for HPDE

[tosha]

Yeah, I was trying to stay away from swapping out the studs. I don’t mind running spacers. When moving to longer studs, is it all of them (F/R) or just front?
Any issue with moving back to say, a 20” wheel? I’d guess if they had center caps, the center caps won’t fit.
I do want the best track performance out of a tire (HPDE). I was pricing the Apex SM-10’s with 285/35/19 PS4’s - invoice was $3400 damnit lol. The PS4’s sure seemed expensive. Was hoping to find a good tire (pretty much track only) for cheaper. Guess that would determine what wheel to go with.
And I don’t want to go Hoosiers, because I do want the ability to drive it on Friday’s around town :-)

Apex has 19 x 11 ET26 option, which should fit 305 tires without the need of spacers or other studs. You won't be able to rotate front and rear, but then it's your choice between ET52 square with spacers/studs in front, or leave everything stock and go with ET26 for front and ET52 rear.

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[tosha]

I’ve only tracked my new 2020 Magneride PP1 A10 once, and overheated the engine oil, trans, and rear diff.
I can’t imagine trying to cool a Forced Induction setup with 200+ more HP.

I’m waiting on the Steeda dual rate springs, have their camber plates, and looking for wheel/tire setup.
The 19” Apex SM-10’s are 3 months out. But sounds like the 18” Apex’s are the best for track? Is there an 18” setup where I don’t need hubs or spacers to run 305 wide?

Well, I guess there are many factors to consider. I tracked mine last weekend and it did not overheat at 80-86 degrees ambient. The diff temps were climbing up towards end of sessions, but I had a jobsite fan with me, that was running under back of the car between sessions and by beginning of each next session my diff was super cool))

And 90 degrees is as hot as it may get for where I am. There are sessions running in April and October, and at these days it may easily be 50 degrees max. In June, it's 70-75. Much easier on a car vs running at 95 degrees.

Anyways, I don't want to diverge the discussion more, as this one is about tires. thanks to everyone who contributed, it really helped me settle with 285/305 at the start. May get 2 more wheels for front to have rotatable 305 setup for track later on and keep 285 for street.

 

[luc]

I did the wheel stud change on the front for function. I changed them on the rear so they'd all be the same. If you're using ARP's, there are two lengths. The longer is for use with spacers on the front & shorter is without spacers for the rear. It bugged me having the two ends of the car different and it's not that big of a job.

How much did you paid for the studs ?
I went with the ford racing hubs because the price was not too bad and included all new hardware including lug nuts and hubs are also kind of a maintenance parts, especially on a track car

 

[TundraOnKings]

How much did you paid for the studs ?
I went with the ford racing hubs because the price was not too bad and included all new hardware including lug nuts and hubs are also kind of a maintenance parts, especially on a track car

I’m guessing this is the extended lug kit for the front everyone is using?
https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-wheel-stud-arp-extended-set-2015-2021/p/M1107C/

 

[TundraOnKings]

I just did the stud swap last week. It's a matter of getting the brakes out of the way, getting them pressed out and new ones in. I used a ball joint removal tool ( https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-q...r-99849.html?_br_psugg_q=ball+joint+separator ) to remove them. I just had to remove a bit of material for head clearance. For pulling the new ones in, just get a 14mm nut from the hardware store along with some spacers and crank down until they're seated (I used an impact). It really wasn't very difficult. I still have my 20" Roush wheels that will go back on when I'm going long distances. The only difference in fit is that the narrower wheels (mine are 9.5" wide) don't need the 25mm spacer, and the extended studs require open ended lug nuts on the front. No reason to change anything on the rear. Several of the 200tw tires are actually cheaper than the PS4s.

Thanks! I have a ball joint removal tool, haven’t used it in years but I think it’s similar. I can pickup that HF one in your link if that’s the “one” to use. :-) I also have some other puller tools, slide-hammers, etc. Really didn’t want to, if I didn’t *have* to, but sounds like it’s the right path to go down. I’ve swapped axles/hubs on 4x4’s but not actual studs. I read somewhere about a guy breaking the Mustang studs off in the hub. I don’t want to do that lol. Thankfully it’s not a DD so it can sit for a long time.

 

[TundraOnKings]

I did the wheel stud change on the front for function. I changed them on the rear so they'd all be the same. If you're using ARP's, there are two lengths. The longer is for use with spacers on the front & shorter is without spacers for the rear. It bugged me having the two ends of the car different and it's not that big of a job.

How were they different, the color?

 

[TundraOnKings]

Nt01 fits that description.
Also the 305/18 is almost $100 cheaper than the 305/19

Wow!! The Nt01 in 18” is almost $400 and the Nt01 in 19” is almost $500!? Lol!
Hopefully that’s the best damn track tire you can drive on the street, to the track?
I was looking at the R888R which looked to be in the same sizes as the Nt01, but $50 cheaper per on each corner.
My Porsche buddy runs the R888R, but that’s a completely different car. How do the 2 compare for the S550?

 

[bnightstar]

Wow!! The Nt01 in 18” is almost $400 and the Nt01 in 19” is almost $500!? Lol!
Hopefully that’s the best damn track tire you can drive on the street, to the track?
I was looking at the R888R which looked to be in the same sizes as the Nt01, but $50 cheaper per on each corner.
My Porsche buddy runs the R888R, but that’s a completely different car. How do the 2 compare for the S550?

Why not run Falken RT660 or G-Force Rival S1.5 or Eagle F1 SuperCar 3R all off them are within the $350-380 range. If you are spending $500 for track tires go get a Cup 2 as this is what OE is on the Mustang anyway. Track tires should be good enough to get you from home to the track. I'm regularly street driving my Zestino TW240 and they have similar pattern to Falken RT660.

 

[tosha]

Wow!! The Nt01 in 18” is almost $400 and the Nt01 in 19” is almost $500!? Lol!
Hopefully that’s the best damn track tire you can drive on the street, to the track?
I was looking at the R888R which looked to be in the same sizes as the Nt01, but $50 cheaper per on each corner.
My Porsche buddy runs the R888R, but that’s a completely different car. How do the 2 compare for the S550?

Nitto and Toyo is one company. I haven't tried either, but you can probably expect their competition tire offerings to be very similar.

 

[luc]

Why not run Falken RT660 or G-Force Rival S1.5 or Eagle F1 SuperCar 3R all off them are within the $350-380 range. If you are spending $500 for track tires go get a Cup 2 as this is what OE is on the Mustang anyway. Track tires should be good enough to get you from home to the track. I'm regularly street driving my Zestino TW240 and they have similar pattern to Falken RT660.

The nt01 is similar to the cup but with the advantage of lasting forever and doesn’t heat cycle out

 

[shogun32]

I do want the best track performance out of a tire (HPDE). I was pricing the Apex SM-10’s with 285/35/19 PS4

PS4S is not a track tire. You want a friend with USAA membership and buy Supercar3 or 3R for 25-30% off. My SC3 in 285 were 850 delivered. SC3R in 305 was ~1000.

 

[shogun32]

If you're using ARP's, there are two lengths

technically there are 3 lengths - stock, +13mm, +25mm.

 

[Steve68Cougar]

Thanks! I have a ball joint removal tool, haven’t used it in years but I think it’s similar. I can pickup that HF one in your link if that’s the “one” to use. :-) I also have some other puller tools, slide-hammers, etc. Really didn’t want to, if I didn’t *have* to, but sounds like it’s the right path to go down. I’ve swapped axles/hubs on 4x4’s but not actual studs. I read somewhere about a guy breaking the Mustang studs off in the hub. I don’t want to do that lol. Thankfully it’s not a DD so it can sit for a long time.

I'd just get the cheap HF one so you don't mess up a good one by grinding on it. Only thing would be if the other one can get used without modification. I wouldn't worry about breaking them off. Mine came out quite easily. I did use an impact to run the tool. My main concern was just to make sure I wasn't putting impact load on the bearings. I've seen people just hit them out with a BFH, but that can be hard on the wheel bearings.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I wouldn’t choose smaller front tires to control oversteer personally. I would select swaybars to control oversteer tho.

I'm looking more at running larger tires out back to provide a little cushion against oversteer. Not necessarily "undersized" front tires except to get a little last use out of a current 285/35-19 set. The base Camaro ZL1 at 285/305 isn't exactly a terrble-handling car, and even if there's a bit more understeer than you or I might be good with, it's still not a bad cushion to have as a novice.


Norm

 

[Norm Peterson]

If we're starting from stratch, the total amount of tire needs(among other things) to be a function of grip and rolling resistance requirements. For handling, the F/R tire width debate needs to begin with a look at the weight distribution of the car. The tire width distribution needs to reflect the weight distribution of the car with a nod toward providing a certain amount of inherent understeer during limit conditions. Rear, mid and front engine cars will all end up different splits due to their different weight distributions. If we're putting wings on the car, they'll end up with different downforce distributions for the same reason.

So the 20mm tire stagger that makes sense on a 700 HP ZL1 would be a disaster to drive on a 700 HP Porsche GT2.

Of course "it depends". That's why I limited my comment to Front Engine / RWD cars.


Norm

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