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The Big Fat Track Car Cooling Thread

shogun32

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Having a turbo v8 car I’ve looked into getting a shorter radiator to free up some space.
I pinged @SteedaTech and CSF and asked if they could work together to come up with a drop-in solution for the GT by marrying up the EB-sized rad and an oil cooler mounted where the EB IC would go. If you're interested you might want to express such to the parties.

CSF was happy to investigate a one-off solution but told me a 20-unit "production" run would have much better pricing.
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Bahndvr

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until you upgrade all inlets/outlets (on the radiator, h/e, pump), your flow will be restricted by the smallest bottleneck (most likely the 5/8" inlet/outlet on the manifold, although these can be upgraded to 7/8" on the Roush iirc)
DOB has done analysis on flow with various components, both restrictive or not; find your combination under the "Intercooler Water Pump Flow Charts" section here: https://www.departmentofboost.com/tech/

my guess is you're seeing ~5gpm with your setup (assumed Roush from your sig), which will sideline you on the track pretty quick driving the car hard at any level of boost :frown:
good news is you can easily double that by using the same h/e and pump as me, or triple/quadruple flow if you upgrade the manifold inlet/outlet to 7/8" and lines/fittings to -16AN (3x) or -20AN (4x). there's also a smaller, single pass version of the h/e that was just released with a lower footprint/price; for most people, this is "good enough", and leap years better than OOTB Roush/VMP/Whipple cooling setups.

if you have more questions, PM me and i'll put you in touch with them.
PM sent
 

Aaron1085

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Tuned in. I haven’t tracked my 2018 GT PP1, but I am boosted and this summer has been warm (my first summer with the car). I’d like to ensure temps stay low around town and when hammering.
What are Some easy additions to make that happen?
 

Ewheels

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Tuned in. I haven’t tracked my 2018 GT PP1, but I am boosted and this summer has been warm (my first summer with the car). I’d like to ensure temps stay low around town and when hammering.
What are Some easy additions to make that happen?
What temps are you referring to? Diff, CHT, water, engine oil, trans? Have you recorded high temps? No sense buying parts for a problem you don't actually have
 

SVO MkII

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Tuned in. I haven’t tracked my 2018 GT PP1, but I am boosted and this summer has been warm (my first summer with the car). I’d like to ensure temps stay low around town and when hammering.
What are Some easy additions to make that happen?
Are you planning to do HPDE? If not, you're probably fine as is. If yes, you'll need better cooling for the entire drive-train, engine, tranny, and diff. Lot's of info on this forum.
 

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Flyhalf

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Tuned in. I haven’t tracked my 2018 GT PP1, but I am boosted and this summer has been warm (my first summer with the car). I’d like to ensure temps stay low around town and when hammering.
What are Some easy additions to make that happen?
Also manual or 10speed?
 

Aaron1085

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The car has a 6spd auto w/ twin disc clutch (otherwise stock transmission)
I wouldn't say I recorded high temperatures just from flogging around town this summer; it definitely builds heat quick with all the components and lack of substantial hood ventilation. But I do agree; no sense of spending money on an issue I don't have.

I just didn't know if it made sense to modify or swap out some items here or there to lower inlet temps, axle temps, things like that. Otherwise, she runs like a champ.

and will I ever get back on the HPDE train... time will tell. As for now, it isn't in the plan. I just like long term reliability with anything; especially this modified platform that I have (purchased it supercharged with bolt-ons, so they aren't my own mods)
 

Ewheels

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The car has a 6spd auto w/ twin disc clutch (otherwise stock transmission)
I wouldn't say I recorded high temperatures just from flogging around town this summer; it definitely builds heat quick with all the components and lack of substantial hood ventilation. But I do agree; no sense of spending money on an issue I don't have.

I just didn't know if it made sense to modify or swap out some items here or there to lower inlet temps, axle temps, things like that. Otherwise, she runs like a champ.

and will I ever get back on the HPDE train... time will tell. As for now, it isn't in the plan. I just like long term reliability with anything; especially this modified platform that I have (purchased it supercharged with bolt-ons, so they aren't my own mods)
If you're not currently seeing heat related issues, I would just leave it be. If you must and simply want the peace of mind, you could do an oil cooler and some venting but again, for your situation, not necessary
 

Aaron1085

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If you're not currently seeing heat related issues, I would just leave it be. If you must and simply want the peace of mind, you could do an oil cooler and some venting but again, for your situation, not necessary
can you provide a little more information or a link on an oil cooler set-up and what it entails please. Thank you!
 

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Aaron1085

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Ewheels

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can you provide a little more information or a link on an oil cooler set-up and what it entails please. Thank you!
Oil Cooler
- cheaper / better but DIY: Setrab.com
- plug-n-play kit: Mishimoto.com

Hood Venting
- Racelouvers.com
 

TeeLew

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Fyi
The use of my spray is.
Use the windshield water tank. I made a switch on the line. And I have 5 nozzles (2 on radiator 2 on the oil cooler. 1 on the trans cooler. 50%water 50% alchool. No dripping. It evaporates at the contact.
Works for 10-15f drop in temps.
I was working on a car last weekend in the CA desert which had some beat up coolers & was overheating about 10 minutes into every run. We rerouted the windshield washer lines to the rad & had the driver pull the washer lever on the straights. It worked like a charm.

Thanks for the idea, Flyhalf!
 

Ewheels

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I was at the track last weekend and wanted to share my temp info.

Previous track event, the car was bone stock cooling-wise other than exhaust wrap near the diff and BG 75w90 fluid. Oil temps were in the yellow, CHT and diff were around 225. Ambient was maybe high 60s.

This last weekend, I switched to 0w40 oil in the engine and had the Race Louvers hood vent. Oil temps stayed in green the whole time. CHT hit 230 at peak but mostly around 220 +/- a few degrees. Diff hit 241 at peak. Ambient was high 70s, low 80s.
I'm trying to hold out on an oil cooler until I absolutely need one. The 0w40 oil seemed to help a lot. I'd like the CHT to be a bit lower so I may add more hood venting or just get a 3 core radiator. I will be boxing the front of the radiator soon as well.
Diff never seems to be an issue. I know I'm not the fastest guy out there so that's probably part of it.
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