SWAY BARS? Which ones...........

[Mikepol2]

For the 2018 I used stock GT350R sway bars, they were less expensive than the aftermarkets and similar sizes (34mm front and 24mm rear).

Front kit $208 at Levittown:

https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/gt350rswaybarkit.html

FR3Z-5482-J - Front Sway Bar
FR3Z-5484-C - Bushings (2)
FR3Z-5486-A - Clamps (2)

FR3Z-5A772-E - Rear G350R Sway Bar, $111 frtom Tasca

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-stabilizer-bar-fr3z5a772e

F2GZ-5493-C -Bushings (2), $16/ea from Tasca

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-stabilizer-bar-bushing-f2gz5493c

Don't know why the rear parts aren't showing up on Levittown's website but if you message them they'll give you pricing. Or just order straight from a local Ford dealer so you can pick them up and avoid shipping, although you may be able to get free shipping from Levittown if you ask.

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[bankyf]

Good for you. My experience has been different. It’s shady to leave parts listed as “in stock” on the website then when you order they bill your card knowing the part is back ordered. They respond, “Oops, sorry. The website needs to be updated.”
It is what it is. They are in business to make money, but if a part isn’t in stock then the card shouldn’t be charged and customer notified so they can decide if they want to wait. Thats what honest businesses do.

I recall a recent email from Steeda indicating that they were transitioning to a live stock quantity on their website. A quick check of the website seems to confirm. Perhaps this will alleviate the issue in the future.

 

[davbrucas]

I recall a recent email from Steeda indicating that they were transitioning to a live stock quantity on their website. A quick check of the website seems to confirm. Perhaps this will alleviate the issue in the future.

Long overdue. I don’t think they are there yet because my order was last week.

 

[PC_GUARD]

I miss Norm and BrianMac...
Norm posted the following many times to questions like this:
"Do not just throw parts at the car. Identify a problem and then what part to solve the problem."
(see Matt's post #6)

Here are sway bar quotes from Brian Mac.
If anything I'd go with stiffening the front slightly, and leave the rear.
Once you have camber in the front (for grip and much better track wear), some added bar is good to improve transitional handling.
I prefer a stiffer rear spring over going heavier on bar if you need the rear to roll less.
It's much more predictable and allows you to keep consistent power delivery.

The stock mustang is very softly sprung and has relatively low total roll stiffness (springs + bars + geometric roll stiffness), around 3 deg/g.

In addition, bars should be used IMO, as a mid-corner balance modifier. (What is being balanced? oversteer vs understeer)
If you are looking for changes to entry/exit behavior or grip then shock settings, alignment settings, and springs are the things you should adjust.

(I have a large note file from BrianMac, and others, from years of suspension threads.)

Absolutely, ive always looked at bars as "finessing".


Alignment tweak what you start with
Springs and dampers
Tweak alignment get the most out of what you have
Tires
Chassis/suspension deflection stiffening
Swaybars


Obviously just my opinion and it makes a big difference on what you intend to do with the car.

 

[shogun32]

Absolutely, ive always looked at bars as "finessing"

I'm curious to know how much my ability to chuck my GT into a constant radius curve and stay 'flat' is a function of the 35mm Steeda front bar, the 275lb/in front springs, and the Steeda dual-rate rear springs.

Cause when I do the exact same arc in my new EB with stock everything I have my heart in my mouth and the right rear wheel feels like it's in the air...

 

[PC_GUARD]

I'm curious to know how much my ability to chuck my GT into a constant radius curve and stay 'flat' is a function of the 35mm Steeda front bar, the 275lb/in front springs, and the Steeda dual-rate rear springs.

Cause when I do the exact same arc in my new EB with stock everything I have my heart in my mouth and the right rear wheel feels like it's in the air...

Bars IMO express themselves more when throwing the car through a chicane. This is why Spring rate, bar size/ tension all need to jive to work properly for the environment the car is in.

Yes on a flat long radius will demonstrate one thing, and show overall grip ability, but IMO the true test is how quickly can the car recover balance/maintain when direction is changed.


So a relatively spaced chicane, where speed is bled off slightly to maintain balance and control, So just for making things up for example, a 4 turn chicane you enter at about 65mph and exit at 45mph, going into a long sweeping hard right where you can maintain 75mph, and maintain your line.

Versus tight slalom cone (just an example demonstration) course, how fast can you maintain, without losing the ass, or pushing out of your line?

My overall point is everything works together, and to test a bar (on its own merit) is most noticed on a left to right. Spring rate DEFINITELY has a roll, but a bar is most expressed in the change of direction.


edit: Now that my brain is functioning, the term is transitional load

 

[GeorgeC]

Ohhhhhh ok, that would be great!!! I will keep you posted. I wanna order by end of week. Just decideing who I wanna go with.
Thanks Anthony

I went with Steeda front and rear plus chassis stiffeners and minimum drop springs. I had this done at Mustang Magic in deer park long island. I'm really happy with it. I just bought a 21 wrx and I think the Mustang handles better than the wrx.

 

[19VelocityBlueGt]

I went outside the norm and glad I did!! I like my H&R solid sway bars!!

 

[TopJimmyCooks]

I have BMRs and am happy. But I think Steeda are probably great too and from what I can tell on this site provide good customer support. Good luck.

 

[Superspirit]

I went with Steeda front and rear plus chassis stiffeners and minimum drop springs. I had this done at Mustang Magic in deer park long island. I'm really happy with it. I just bought a 21 wrx and I think the Mustang handles better than the wrx.

This is the combo I am Running and I'm totally satisfied. But I installed it all myself as I am a retired ASE Master tech.

 

[GregO]

I’m super happy with the 38mm Hotchkis front and 25mm rear bar combination regardless of what past forum critics say.
I’m really happy the stupid bonded OEM bouncy bar was dropped off at my local metal scrap yard !

 

[dman]

I got with @tj@steeda and he got me a great deal on a set of front and rears with endlinks and I'm very happy. I have a 19 base gt also.

Steeda...on all three of my cars ends are not pressed flat like Ford

 

[TeeLew]

I'm curious to know how much my ability to chuck my GT into a constant radius curve and stay 'flat' is a function of the 35mm Steeda front bar, the 275lb/in front springs, and the Steeda dual-rate rear springs.

Cause when I do the exact same arc in my new EB with stock everything I have my heart in my mouth and the right rear wheel feels like it's in the air...

90% of driver confidence on corner entry is a product of the front spring. The rate on your GT is reasonably modest and it's still an ~80% increase over your Eco. Once you have enough front spring, you'll realize you don't need, or even want, a stiffer rear.

 

[GTP]

For the 2018 I used stock GT350R sway bars, they were less expensive than the aftermarkets and similar sizes (34mm front and 24mm rear).

Front kit $208 at Levittown:

https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/gt350rswaybarkit.html

FR3Z-5482-J - Front Sway Bar
FR3Z-5484-C - Bushings (2)
FR3Z-5486-A - Clamps (2)

FR3Z-5A772-E - Rear G350R Sway Bar, $111 frtom Tasca

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-stabilizer-bar-fr3z5a772e

F2GZ-5493-C -Bushings (2), $16/ea from Tasca

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-stabilizer-bar-bushing-f2gz5493c

Don't know why the rear parts aren't showing up on Levittown's website but if you message them they'll give you pricing. Or just order straight from a local Ford dealer so you can pick them up and avoid shipping, although you may be able to get free shipping from Levittown if you ask.

This is my solution exactly. 2019 PP1 car with magneglide.

As a daily my car rides as before the swap in a straight line. But I can feel the extra stiffness when going over the end of my driveway.

The car feels neutral at the track, except for pushing entering corners that are 40mph or slower. I don't think that's curable for Mustangs.

 

[Dana Pants]

This is my solution exactly. 2019 PP1 car with magneglide.

As a daily my car rides as before the swap in a straight line. But I can feel the extra stiffness when going over the end of my driveway.

The car feels neutral at the track, except for pushing entering corners that are 40mph or slower. I don't think that's curable for Mustangs.

I’m at -4 front camber. Car does not push, even with a stiff front swaybar. When I was limited to -2 front camber, a stiffer rear swaybar also solved the push issue.

Example:

if you wanna die, stiffening the rear shock rebound will cause sliding on corner entry.

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