SWAY BARS? Which ones...........

[monte87]

Love mine.

If you want just price though some GT500, Mach1 handling pack or GT350 are probably your cheapest option for a good bar with low investment.

Awesome, thanks

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[Järn]

I am in the market for a set of Sway Bars, which brand would be the best bang for the buck? 2021 ford mustang GT non PP car.

I miss Norm and BrianMac...
Norm posted the following many times to questions like this:
"Do not just throw parts at the car. Identify a problem and then what part to solve the problem."
(see Matt's post #6)

Here are sway bar quotes from Brian Mac.
If anything I'd go with stiffening the front slightly, and leave the rear.
Once you have camber in the front (for grip and much better track wear), some added bar is good to improve transitional handling.
I prefer a stiffer rear spring over going heavier on bar if you need the rear to roll less.
It's much more predictable and allows you to keep consistent power delivery.

The stock mustang is very softly sprung and has relatively low total roll stiffness (springs + bars + geometric roll stiffness), around 3 deg/g.

In addition, bars should be used IMO, as a mid-corner balance modifier. (What is being balanced? oversteer vs understeer)
If you are looking for changes to entry/exit behavior or grip then shock settings, alignment settings, and springs are the things you should adjust.

(I have a large note file from BrianMac, and others, from years of suspension threads.)

 

[bigenos]

I have an eibach front bar, really nice unit. Durable coating, greasable chassis links, and fit very well. I have a strano rear bar and it's fine, but the chassis links need to be removed to be greased (most are like this).

What are you doing with the car? If you want to autocross or do track days I highly recommend getting adjustable bars. If it's just street driving a non-adjustable bar is a nice upgrade without a lot of fuss. Bars are a great tuning option. Easy to change and they make a noticeable change.

 

[monte87]

I miss Norm and BrianMac...
Norm posted the following many times to questions like this:
"Do not just throw parts at the car. Identify a problem and then what part to solve the problem."
(see Matt's post #6)

Here are sway bar quotes from Brian Mac.
If anything I'd go with stiffening the front slightly, and leave the rear.
Once you have camber in the front (for grip and much better track wear), some added bar is good to improve transitional handling.
I prefer a stiffer rear spring over going heavier on bar if you need the rear to roll less.
It's much more predictable and allows you to keep consistent power delivery.

The stock mustang is very softly sprung and has relatively low total roll stiffness (springs + bars + geometric roll stiffness), around 3 deg/g.

In addition, bars should be used IMO, as a mid-corner balance modifier. (What is being balanced? oversteer vs understeer)
If you are looking for changes to entry/exit behavior or grip then shock settings, alignment settings, and springs are the things you should adjust.

(I have a large note file from BrianMac, and others, from years of suspension threads.)

I miss Norm and BrianMac...
Norm posted the following many times to questions like this:
"Do not just throw parts at the car. Identify a problem and then what part to solve the problem."
(see Matt's post #6)

Here are sway bar quotes from Brian Mac.
If anything I'd go with stiffening the front slightly, and leave the rear.
Once you have camber in the front (for grip and much better track wear), some added bar is good to improve transitional handling.
I prefer a stiffer rear spring over going heavier on bar if you need the rear to roll less.
It's much more predictable and allows you to keep consistent power delivery.

The stock mustang is very softly sprung and has relatively low total roll stiffness (springs + bars + geometric roll stiffness), around 3 deg/g.

In addition, bars should be used IMO, as a mid-corner balance modifier. (What is being balanced? oversteer vs understeer)
If you are looking for changes to entry/exit behavior or grip then shock settings, alignment settings, and springs are the things you should adjust.

(I have a large note file from BrianMac, and others, from years of suspension threads.)

This is awesome, thanks for reply!!! I am not changing springs, I just want more of a PP set up, im not tracking car, just some street fun, in a straihght line and some windy roads every now and then. What do you think of BMR sway bars??
Thanks Anthony

 

[monte87]

I have an eibach front bar, really nice unit. Durable coating, greasable chassis links, and fit very well. I have a strano rear bar and it's fine, but the chassis links need to be removed to be greased (most are like this).

What are you doing with the car? If you want to autocross or do track days I highly recommend getting adjustable bars. If it's just street driving a non-adjustable bar is a nice upgrade without a lot of fuss. Bars are a great tuning option. Easy to change and they make a noticeable change.

I am not changing springs, I just want more of a PP set up, im not tracking car, just some street fun, in a straihght line and some windy roads every now and then. What do you think of BMR sway bars??
Thanks Anthoiny

 

[bigenos]

The Eibach front bar was a great upgrade on mine set to medium. I also have a non-PP GT (Premium) and I'd think the BMR set to medium would be a good upgrade for you. Very noticable "snappy" nature on turn in now and less body roll. Car can push a little on low-grip surfaces, but that's not a deal breaker.

 

[davbrucas]

If you order from Steeda, make sure you call to verify if a part is in stock. Their website is not accurate on in stock parts and they will charge you even if you have to wait a couple weeks for it. Find a place that has them in stock and order from there. You can't go wrong with any of the well known suspension company sway bars.

 

[K4fxd]

If you order from Steeda, make sure you call to verify if a part is in stock. Their website is not accurate on in stock parts and they will charge you even if you have to wait a couple weeks for it. Find a place that has them in stock and order from there. You can't go wrong with any of the well known suspension company sway bars.

What? I have ordered many items from Steeda. All were sent immediately unless the items were drop shipped, like my B6 bilstein's

 

[monte87]

If you order from Steeda, make sure you call to verify if a part is in stock. Their website is not accurate on in stock parts and they will charge you even if you have to wait a couple weeks for it. Find a place that has them in stock and order from there. You can't go wrong with any of the well known suspension company sway bars.

Thanks dude. Yeah, I've experienced there lack of stock and must wait for, building part excuse over the years. That excuse has lost them a sale multiple times on occasion w me. Awesomee company, No stock...
Thanks Anthony

 

[monte87]

What? I have ordered many items from Steeda. All were sent immediately unless the items were drop shipped, like my B6 bilstein's

Last 2 most recent purchases, front lower member brace, and rear subframe braces, had to be built, wait time 6 weeks. Lmao I ended up Cancelling order and purchased from summit.

 

[K4fxd]

Kroger has empty shelves also.....

 

[paulm1]

Thanks dude. Yeah, I've experienced there lack of stock and must wait for, building part excuse over the years. That excuse has lost them a sale multiple times on occasion w me. Awesomee company, No stock...
Thanks Anthony

Supply chain crap happening to all vendors, ordered a rear shock mount / brace kit direct from BMR a month ago, listed in stock, waited a week and asked for shipping info. "Oh sorry, that part is back ordered six weeks." Take home message is contact them before ordering to check stock. If they lie about it forget doing business with them.

 

[davbrucas]

What? I have ordered many items from Steeda. All were sent immediately unless the items were drop shipped, like my B6 bilstein's

Good for you. My experience has been different. It’s shady to leave parts listed as “in stock” on the website then when you order they bill your card knowing the part is back ordered. They respond, “Oops, sorry. The website needs to be updated.”
It is what it is. They are in business to make money, but if a part isn’t in stock then the card shouldn’t be charged and customer notified so they can decide if they want to wait. Thats what honest businesses do.

 

[davbrucas]

Thanks dude. Yeah, I've experienced there lack of stock and must wait for, building part excuse over the years. That excuse has lost them a sale multiple times on occasion w me. Awesomee company, No stock...
Thanks Anthony

Agreed. I have several Steeda parts on my car. Most ordered from vendors and not from Steeda though.

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