Subwoofer replacement options

FreePenguin

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Yeah that was my GOAL! but its not what i am hearing. i thought i could use the remote gain knob to adjust from deaf to awesome.....and yet i havent even got the remote gain knob to pair...which is another problem in itself and again i haven't messed with it anymore so i should be griping on a forum about it not working until i did my due diligence.

thanks for all the insight and i need to get forscan now just to try that.
Keep the bass knob unplugged til your gain is set.
Goal of knob is you can always turn bass down, but when you crank it up, you want it to never exceed what the amp is tuned at optimum. I wouldn’t even have a bass knob if wasn’t for having a pet or animal, and sometimes a song has so much bass enhancement that it’s awful.

There’s a ton of cool things you can change on your car.
Ie. 3 flash turn signal to 5 when you tap the turn signal lever,

turn chimes off from all speakers, can move them to your dash cluster speakers so when you reverse or chimes don’t make you deaf.

Etc.





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FreePenguin

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Yeah that was my GOAL! but its not what i am hearing. i thought i could use the remote gain knob to adjust from deaf to awesome.....and yet i havent even got the remote gain knob to pair...which is another problem in itself and again i haven't messed with it anymore so i should be griping on a forum about it not working until i did my due diligence.

thanks for all the insight and i need to get forscan now just to try that.
One last question, let’s say you’re amp is doing what’s job, and it sounds good.

when it needs to “hit” and it doesn’t have enough hit, what guage wire is providing all that power to your amp?

Is it oxygen free copper? Or copper clad aluminum.

if it’s a subpar wiring harness (clad aluminum), you could be limiting the power a lot, and inducing a lot of resistance/heat.

oxygen free copper is the only answer, carries way higher wattage and does it better. You need a way bigger cca wire than oxygen free to carry the same power.
 

protraxduner

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One last question, let’s say you’re amp is doing what’s job, and it sounds good.

when it needs to “hit” and it doesn’t have enough hit, what guage wire is providing all that power to your amp?

Is it oxygen free copper? Or copper clad aluminum.

if it’s a subpar wiring harness (clad aluminum), you could be limiting the power a lot, and inducing a lot of resistance/heat.

oxygen free copper is the only answer, carries way higher wattage and does it better. You need a way bigger cca wire than oxygen free to carry the same power.
My amp sits right next to battery in the trunk(relocated) and is fed by 2/0 like 1/2 thick 2000+ strand ofc that is only 2ft long. Same with ground. Same wire feeds to front for alternator/starter.

Power Wiring is NOT an issue. And my speaker wire is stupid big too.

20201121_164947.jpg
 

FreePenguin

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My amp sits right next to battery in the trunk(relocated) and is fed by 2/0 like 1/2 thick 2000+ strand ofc that is only 2ft long. Same with ground. Same wire feeds to front for alternator/starter.

Power Wiring is NOT an issue. And my speaker wire is stupid big too.

20201121_164947.jpg
I was just trying to think of other variables that may of caused an issue if everything else was right is all. Looks like a killer set up.

do you think a car with that much power draw would require a capacitor for harder hits? I’ve never needed one but my systems have never been over 600-700 watts
 

m3incorp

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I don't know which guy you are referring to but if it is the guy with the B&O, keep in mind there is no amp on the sub box. It uses the amp/dsp in the drivers side kickpanel and will be low level.

For the guy who actually used the sub signal. He should look at the wiring one more time, make sure it’s all correct, and if so. He should disable factory eq.

he has way to much power to not be getting any real power which I think means he’s been rolled off harshly or somethings wrong with settings on amp.
Isn’t factory sub signal high level? I thought it’s high level til it hits that amp on the sub box

it may need dropped to line level, then adjust accordingly on amp.
 

protraxduner

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I don't know which guy you are referring to but if it is the guy with the B&O, keep in mind there is no amp on the sub box. It uses the amp/dsp in the drivers side kickpanel and will be low level.
I have b&o system and grabbed signal at sub. My amp will take low or high level so I assume I am good....signal wise.
 

m3incorp

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I'm not sure the factory sub signal is high level. I ran a couple of tests by wiring it as high level and testing; then added Rockford Fosgate adapter to change speaker wire to line in RCA and plugging into low level on the amp. It sounds exactly the same. My amp has high level speaker inputs and low level rca inputs. But heck.....who knows, I forgot is Scott has the B&O or was it someone else. .



Scott's only issue is he is using the wrong audio input (rear speakers instead of sub). He is going to run his wiring from the OEM sub with the proper configuration I listed in one of the above posts.

The factory sub signal is a high level signal and it has a crossover frequency of around 60 Hz. He won't be messing around with forescan at this time so he will be setting the crossover on his Kenwood amp to the highest setting possible. This same procedure is what I and quite a few others have done with this particular B&O system and it works very well. Like many others here, we are ok with the sound and just wanted more and better sounding bass. If I were upgrading the entire system the first thing you would need to do is remove the factory EQ for sure.
 

marklboris

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There is no amp in the sub box. The wires going to the sub at the box are from the factory amp. Therefore it’s a high level signal. Some amps can automatically switch between high and low level. Don’t know what to say but it’s definitely a high level signal.
 

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I don't know which guy you are referring to but if it is the guy with the B&O, keep in mind there is no amp on the sub box. It uses the amp/dsp in the drivers side kickpanel and will be low level.
The shaker pro- its high level, and there’s an amp on the back. The shaker pro box. It’s ambicile corded

I don’t know if b&o has an amp back there like this.

D994CD72-3B0B-40DE-B8C4-B54518ED681E.jpeg


1BB2B26A-8FBE-46F3-B8CC-64BC5131BF16.jpeg

Kick panel- wiring harness, into that amp on back of the shaker box. Is the mini amp not on b o box?
 

marklboris

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No, no amp. Speaker and box only.
 

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I think the confusing part is that typically when we think of high level vs low level, we are thinking "factory radios" that have speaker outputs (high level) and rca outputs (low level). We would normally run the rca outputs to the rca inputs on the aftermarket amplifier and then connect the speaker wires to the the amps output. In this case, the car already has an external amplifier....does that signal running from the amp/dsp subwoofer channel now output a signal with the correct volts to be called a low level input....as that is where the subwoofer wires are coming from.....I guess I will have to take out the old volt meter and measure. If you have done this please save me the time and say yep it's definitely high level.....ie 11 or so volts vs 2 or so volts.



There is no amp in the sub box. The wires going to the sub at the box are from the factory amp. Therefore it’s a high level signal. Some amps can automatically switch between high and low level. Don’t know what to say but it’s definitely a high level signal.
 

marklboris

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I actually have not done this. I figure since the wires going to the OEM sub are coming from the OEM amp it would be high level. Running those wires into the high level input of the JL amp gives me a normal sound level out. I’m happy. If you want I can easily measure it tomorrow.
 

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I haven't measured it either, but your comment made me think of it. Don't get me wrong, I am not disagreeing with you. The Ford B&O system has a lot of quirks, and now I wonder. I agree in that I ran the high levels to my amp also and agree the sound out was great and then I had an idea and used the line to RCA adapter to see what would happen and couldn't tell a difference in the sound, so it made me wonder. If your voltmeter is handy, I would be interested in seeing what readings you get.

I actually have not done this. I figure since the wires going to the OEM sub are coming from the OEM amp it would be high level. Running those wires into the high level input of the JL amp gives me a normal sound level out. I’m happy. If you want I can easily measure it tomorrow.
 

protraxduner

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To make this even more confusing, the Kicker amp i am using only has RCA inputs, so they sell you rca connector to connect to speaker wires, it simply is converting bare wires to rca, no electronics. So all the magic is happening in the amp and by the amp...there is no setting it just figures it out.
 

m3incorp

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Give this a try.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G352P2C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an amp that accepts high level (bare wires) and low-level RCA. I had it wired to the high level on my amp and worked great and then as an experiment, used the adapter above and plugged it into the low-level RCA, and sounds exactly the same.

It is cheap and worth a try.

One of the other members is going to use a voltmeter to test if the signal coming from the sub part of the B&O amp is actually high or low level.

To make this even more confusing, the Kicker amp i am using only has RCA inputs, so they sell you rca connector to connect to speaker wires, it simply is converting bare wires to rca, no electronics. So all the magic is happening in the amp and by the amp...there is no setting it just figures it out.
 

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