Subwoofer replacement options

[scottgt500]

correct, mine absolutely hit hard, sounded like two 12's. but I wanted moarrrrr so I upgraded. but I was perfectly happy, its a phenomenal box.


its one of 3 things for you guys, signal, or the EQ, or loc2i/amp settings aren't tuned ideally or the source from rear shelf speakers for those who used them. people who used rear shelf speakers I read have lc2i's and that allows them to add bass/bassrolloff to basically non existing sounds so that makes sense why some get away with it.


there is no way in hell anyones amp gain should be maxed out. that is dirty, terribly dirty signal/clipping. unless the loc is just garbage, providing no signal to the amp, then I could see that. but even then, it is just converting.

for clarification, I am using OEM sub signal wires as the guy above has been posting. that is the ideal source.

Well I have been jerked around over the last 2 weeks over this install....getting ripped off and getting something installed that wasn't necessary. I have no idea what I am doing so I cant help. My tech in the back did 90% of the install and he actually did a great job with no technical car audio knowledge. He could have missed something that the other shop/installer didn't want to tell me or didn't even look for. If someone REALLY knows this stuff...could you pm me your number so I could get him to call you? I spent waaaaaay too much on this with different amps and duplicating installs. I think it is close to correct...but missing something. This TW3 sub should thump pretty hard. If you would be willing to talk to my guy, please pm me your number so my guy could call you and talk shop. He know the wiring since he installed almost everything. The second shop kinda screwed me so I am not hopeful for any help there. I would be super grateful if someone could walk us through this. I am way over budget so I want it to sound like I spent too much, at least....LOL

Scott

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[m3incorp]

In these cars, do not pick up your signal from the rear speakers, there is a built in roll-off. If you have the subwoofer wires, pick up your signal from those wires....which will already be a low- level. If you don't have the subwoofer wires, pick up the signal from the amp where it feeds the door speakers.

 

[FreePenguin]

In these cars, do not pick up your signal from the rear speakers, there is a built in roll-off. If you have the subwoofer wires, pick up your signal from those wires....which will already be a low- level. If you don't have the subwoofer wires, pick up the signal from the amp where it feeds the door speakers.

He’s the man, we both have the same system and I think I can speak for us both.

500 watts jams these cars.

 

[FreePenguin]

In these cars, do not pick up your signal from the rear speakers, there is a built in roll-off. If you have the subwoofer wires, pick up your signal from those wires....which will already be a low- level. If you don't have the subwoofer wires, pick up the signal from the amp where it feeds the door speakers.

People who do use rear speakers, have lc2i, it’s a loc with a bass roll off adjustment, meaning it can artificially add bass to signals basically non existent. But then you’re adding another component into the system. Just tap the door signal at amp or sub signal and enjoy.

some cars require lc2i’s as some naturally have a terrible roll off and can’t get any real low signal from them. Had to do it with my friends car, we disable eq and when carturned off and on, eq was back eliminating all the bass.

But mustang isn’t needed

 

[scottgt500]

People who do use rear speakers, have lc2i, it’s a loc with a bass roll off adjustment, meaning it can artificially add bass to signals basically non existent. But then you’re adding another component into the system. Just tap the door signal at amp or sub signal and enjoy.

some cars require lc2i’s as some naturally have a terrible roll off and can’t get any real low signal from them. Had to do it with my friends car, we disable eq and when carturned off and on, eq was back eliminating all the bass.

But mustang isn’t needed

Thank you!!!!!!!!!! I really appreciate it. Sounds like it may be a quick fix. So basically change from the rear speaker to the sub speaker or door speaker. Hell, 2 different shops never told me that...

trial and error...and more money...and trial and error. lol

 

[m3incorp]

Yes exactly. The sub speaker is there; Use those wires. Your installer should know which set of wires go together.

Thank you!!!!!!!!!! I really appreciate it. Sounds like it may be a quick fix. So basically change from the rear speaker to the sub speaker or door speaker. Hell, 2 different shops never told me that...

trial and error...and more money...and trial and error. lol

 

[marklboris]

I posted the sub wires here that need to be used. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/subwoofer-replacement-options.140485/post-3144390

 

[m3incorp]

lol I knew someone had posted them.

I posted the sub wires here that need to be used. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/subwoofer-replacement-options.140485/post-3144390

 

[FreePenguin]

For the guy who actually used the sub signal. He should look at the wiring one more time, make sure it’s all correct, and if so. He should disable factory eq.

he has way to much power to not be getting any real power which I think means he’s been rolled off harshly or somethings wrong with settings on amp.
Isn’t factory sub signal high level? I thought it’s high level til it hits that amp on the sub box

it may need dropped to line level, then adjust accordingly on amp.

 

[protraxduner]

For the guy who actually used the sub signal. He should look at the wiring one more time, make sure it’s all correct, and if so. He should disable factory eq.

he has way to much power to not be getting any real power which I think means he’s been rolled off harshly or somethings wrong with settings on amp.
Isn’t factory sub signal high level? I thought it’s high level til it hits that amp on the sub box

it may need dropped to line level, then adjust accordingly on amp.

I did nothing other than clip the wires to the factory sub that @marklboris posted and connected them to my Kicker amp, the amp handles both low and high level....so idk how to tell what it is getting....other than i have not touched anything else (with forscan or such). Admittingly I have not played with it other than a quick gain adjustment from about middle to lowest setting. At middle setting it was ridiculously to much bass but then i went to lowest level which shame on me for not messing with longer. But at the lowest gain level it has decent amount of bass just no real hit. When i get a chance i will mess with it and go through the auto gain level setting procedure that my amp has.

 

[FreePenguin]

If your amp can handle both high and low freq. is there a selector switch? Try and Change it to high level toggle, and reset the gains

reason I say this.

I feel like oem sub is high level, and if you have it reading as it low level it can be throwing it off a lot

all of my amps capable of handling both always had a selector, high and low so it knows how to determine the gain.

I think it’s high level by default until eq is disabled. - my reasoning for this is it’s high level so it can trip the stock subwoofer amplifier on in oem configuration.


I’d set your amp using a volt meter.
What can your subwoofer handle rms? What can the amp put out rms?

Use a 50hz 0db test tone, set the volume to 2/3 of what you listen too, Ie. My radio goes to 30, but I do not go over 22 using iPhone iTunes music, so I loaded 50hz 0 db to my iPhone iTunes,

I set radio to 16 or so. Play test tone. I use the volt meter in the wire out +\- of my amp the spot where goes to sub. Sub disconnected

ignore the word bolt, my iPhone makes volt bolt

32 at 2 ohms is 512 watts
30 at 2ohm is 450 watts
28 at 2 ohms is 392
26 at 2 ohms is 338

just take a number multiply by itself and divide by ohms

26 x 26 divide by 2 ohms is watts.

I do this to ensure if the amp is capable of putting too much power than the Sub can handle I volt match

Can you post your amp model? I want to look up it’s owner manual.

 

[marklboris]

Scott's only issue is he is using the wrong audio input (rear speakers instead of sub). He is going to run his wiring from the OEM sub with the proper configuration I listed in one of the above posts.

The factory sub signal is a high level signal and it has a crossover frequency of around 60 Hz. He won't be messing around with forescan at this time so he will be setting the crossover on his Kenwood amp to the highest setting possible. This same procedure is what I and quite a few others have done with this particular B&O system and it works very well. Like many others here, we are ok with the sound and just wanted more and better sounding bass. If I were upgrading the entire system the first thing you would need to do is remove the factory EQ for sure.

 

[protraxduner]

If your amp can handle both high and low freq. is there a selector switch? Try and Change it to high level toggle, and reset the gains

reason I say this.

I feel like oem sub is high level, and if you have it reading as it low level it can be throwing it off a lot

all of my amps capable of handling both always had a selector, high and low so it knows how to determine the gain.

I think it’s high level by default until eq is disabled. - my reasoning for this is it’s high level so it can trip the stock subwoofer amplifier on in oem configuration.


I’d set your amp using a volt meter.
What can your subwoofer handle rms? What can the amp put out rms?

Use a 50hz 0db test tone, set the volume to 2/3 of what you listen too, Ie. My radio goes to 30, but I do not go over 22 using iPhone iTunes music, so I loaded 50hz 0 db to my iPhone iTunes,

I set radio to 16 or so. Play test tone. I use the volt meter in the wire out +\- of my amp the spot where goes to sub. Sub disconnected

ignore the word bolt, my iPhone makes volt bolt

32 at 2 ohms is 512 watts
30 at 2ohm is 450 watts
28 at 2 ohms is 392
26 at 2 ohms is 338

just take a number multiply by itself and divide by ohms

26 x 26 divide by 2 ohms is watts.

I do this to ensure if the amp is capable of putting too much power than the Sub can handle I volt match

As @marklboris stated i think i have the correct signal i just don't have something correct. I have more than enough amp and more than enough sub so i have something out of wack.

Amp is rated at @ 14.4V, 2Ω mono, ≤ 1% THD+N : 1600 x 1 RMS

Subs are rated at 900 RMS, the 2 subs are wired so the amp sees a 2ohm load, and if it matters the amp is 1ohm stable also.

 

[FreePenguin]

As @marklboris stated i think i have the correct signal i just don't have something correct. I have more than enough amp and more than enough sub so i have something out of wack.

Amp is rated at @ 14.4V, 2Ω mono, ≤ 1% THD+N : 1600 x 1 RMS

Subs are rated at 900 RMS, the 2 subs are wired so the amp sees a 2ohm load, and if it matters the amp is 1ohm stable also.

If they are 1600 at 1ohm that means can handle 800sh watts 2ohms.

so I’d say 40 volts even as a target 40x40 divide by 2 ohms means 800 watts roughly. Can reduce or add. I wouldn’t use any bass boost. Just clean energy.


edit I read your stats wrong. I thought it said 1600 @ 1ohm. Let me rephrase

If your amp can handle 1600 watts rms at 2ohms, and your subs 900 each,

then you could run 55v target.

55x55 divide by 2 ohms = 1512 watts.
Holy shit I bet that would be crazy loud, like deaf.

 

[protraxduner]

If they are 1600 at 1ohm that means can handle 800sh watts 2ohms.

so I’d say 40 volts even as a target 40x40 divide by 2 ohms means 800 watts roughly. Can reduce or add. I wouldn’t use any bass boost. Just clean energy.


edit I read your stats wrong. I thought it said 1600 @ 1ohm. Let me rephrase

If your amp can handle 1600 watts rms at 2ohms, and your subs 900 each,

then you could run 55v target.

55x55 divide by 2 ohms = 1512 watts.
Holy shit I bet that would be crazy loud, like deaf.

Yeah that was my GOAL! but its not what i am hearing. i thought i could use the remote gain knob to adjust from deaf to awesome.....and yet i havent even got the remote gain knob to pair...which is another problem in itself and again i haven't messed with it anymore so i should be griping on a forum about it not working until i did my due diligence.

thanks for all the insight and i need to get forscan now just to try that.

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