Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Cathul]

To be clear, I need this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/iDatalink-...lifier-Harness-For-Ford-Mustang-/283794369586

And this
https://smile.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-8-Channel-Interactive-Integrated/dp/B076CY59YX/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g4368549507?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0&ie=UTF8

And an amp and sub, correct? Is there an amp you would recommend?

Use any amp combination that gives you the channels and power you want/need and fits your budget.
Use quality brands and it shouldn't really matter much.

Many of today’s amps have LOCs built in so you can run high level lines in without issue. If you’re going to run your mids and highs ‘active’ you’ll need a DSP. Again, there’s many options for that as well.

If you want to amplify the front and a sub with new amps it's better to do it right once, and this means an integration device of any kind like the DSR1/Maestro AR in his case.
He doesn't have the B&O system, so he doesn't have much choice unfortunately.
Sure, if you only get the HRN-AR-FO3 harness you could solder an adapter yourself for any DSP amplifier combination, but if you can get it, the DSR1 is imho one of the best budget and beginner friendly devices there is.

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[s550_kratos]

So I have a crazy mess lol. I originally got an amp installed for the door speakers by an installer about 1.5 years ago. Well now I have added a pair of 12s with their own amp and also a third box with 2 10s and 2 4 inch tweeters for mids and highs.

It seems he did some funky wiring off the factory amp original to tap audio signals.

Would this harness work to get the speaker signals and then run them independently to each amp so that the separate systems can run on their own. ? https://www.crutchfield.com/p_794HARFO3/iDatalink-HRN-AR-FO3-Harness.html?omnews=17281761

 

[Evolvd]

This photo is courtesy of @StangTime so he gets credit.

It appears your current amp was spliced right into the 3.5”/tweeter output plug of your stock amp. Not the best way to do it by far but if he was doing it cheap and easy this is what I’d expect.
An AF03 harness would plug right into this one and the gray plug that runs out to your 6.5” door speakers. The black harness is the amps input from the ACM (head unit).

 

[Cathul]

Oh my goodness.... 1.5 years ago and he still f*cked up your stock wiring while the adapter aFO3 was already available at that time and only cost 40$ and would've been plug'n'play.

I'm sorry, but your installer is not worth the money.
Now you need someone to revert everything back to stock and then use the correct wiring adapter harness.

Not the best way to do it by far but if he was doing it cheap and easy this is what I’d expect.
An AF03 harness would plug right into this one and the gray plug that runs out to your 6.5” door speakers. The black harness is the amps input from the ACM (head unit).

If he was doing it cheap and easy he definitely would've used the aFO3 harness. Which does not mean that this adapter harness is cheap! It's the single best way to integrate into the Shaker system as you have everything in the plug that you could potentially need, amp turn on wire (although only 6V, but you can use relays, cant you?), constant 12V, ignition, ground, signal wires, speaker wires, you name it.
Splicing into stock wiring is not cheap (in labour and long term costs) and definitely not easier than to just plug some connectors together.

As said above, this installer wasn't worth the money.

 

[s550_kratos]

Gents thanks for both of your time. I'm going to try revert to stock if I can and putting the aFO3 in

 

[Evolvd]

Oh my goodness.... 1.5 years ago and he still f*cked up your stock wiring while the adapter aFO3 was already available at that time and only cost 40$ and would've been plug'n'play.

I'm sorry, but your installer is not worth the money.
Now you need someone to revert everything back to stock and then use the correct wiring adapter harness.


If he was doing it cheap and easy he definitely would've used the aFO3 harness. Which does not mean that this adapter harness is cheap! It's the single best way to integrate into the Shaker system as you have everything in the plug that you could potentially need, amp turn on wire (although only 6V, but you can use relays, cant you?), constant 12V, ignition, ground, signal wires, speaker wires, you name it.
Splicing into stock wiring is not cheap (in labour and long term costs) and definitely not easier than to just plug some connectors together.

As said above, this installer wasn't worth the money.

Lol I was trying to be nice about it but since you brought it up, yes it’s a hack-job. Satisfied?

 

[Cathul]

No, i'm not satisified.
I'm never satisfied when i have to tell someone that the guy that he paid money to did a crappy job.

 

[s550_kratos]

No, i'm not satisified.
I'm never satisfied when i have to tell someone that the guy that he paid money to did a crappy job.

It's shitty work I only used an installer because I was busy and now I will pay the consequences lol

 

[StangTime]

It's shitty work I only used an installer because I was busy and now I will pay the consequences lol

You'll just have to very carefully remove all the barnacles he added to your wire harness. Insulate every exposed wire and wrap with Tessa tape. Then you can safely add the AF03 harness.

 

[Cathul]

It's shitty work I only used an installer because I was busy and now I will pay the consequences lol

Doesn't matter. You paid with your hard earned money and you (and your car) deserve better than this.

 

[filly]

Whew, I finally have some respectable low end frequencies!!

Here's the summary of my adventure...

2017 GT premium convertible with Shaker 9 speaker system.
1. Bought a Focal BombA powered sub.
2. Wired to rear speakers - pitiful sound.
3. ForScanned the EQ and Convertible sound change with top down - both worked, sounded better, but still had the gain cranked all the way and no bass below about 50 Hz. Overall improvement, but front speakers still had more low end than rear.
4. Wired to front speakers - better volume on the bass but still missing the lows I was looking for.
5. Wired to rear speaker line before factory amp - voila!

Had to turn that sub down to keep from rattling my brain! Getting lows down to 30Hz and soo happy with it now.

 

[s550_kratos]

Doesn't matter. You paid with your hard earned money and you (and your car) deserve better than this.

You'll just have to very carefully remove all the barnacles he added to your wire harness. Insulate every exposed wire and wrap with Tessa tape. Then you can safely add the AF03 harness.

Well I have fixed whatever the hell mess he made lol. My system is now working properly with each amp independently receiving the signals it needs and it sounds great. I did have to tap the front speakers with the tweeters and center channel though because I couldn't figure out where to get those off the AF03 harness.

Thanks all for your help.

 

[Evolvd]

Well I have fixed whatever the hell mess he made lol. My system is now working properly with each amp independently receiving the signals it needs and it sounds great. I did have to tap the front speakers with the tweeters and center channel though because I couldn't figure out where to get those off the AF03 harness.

Thanks all for your help.

Check out the diagram I shared in post 1222. The brown plug is your 6.5” and 3.5” door speakers. The a-pillar tweeters are wired in parallel with the 3.5”s.

 

[s550_kratos]

Check out the diagram I shared in post 1222. The brown plug is your 6.5” and 3.5” door speakers. The a-pillar tweeters are wired in parallel with the 3.5”s.

your the man, sorry i read over it and forgot, thank you

 

[darthlung37]

Hoping someone can help me out with a quick question. I'm looking to get an 18 mustang ecoboost premium. It seems the consensus is the speakers suck on the shaker, so my question is, like what do i need to make it sounds decent im not an audiophile or anything i just want it to sound decent to good. I would need speakers a sub and an amp? sorry car audio is so confusing for me lol

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