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Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

StangTime

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I was referring to using an audiocontrol DSP/AMP that takes those high level inputs and converts them to line level and then you can tune to your liking via the DSP using the RTA feature. Mine personally taps off of the HU for a full signal and then I just sum them on the other channels, set the xover and then I will feed those back into the speakers. The stock amp will sit there but not be connected to the speakers but is still connected to the HU.
If you are grabbing the signals between the HU and the amp then you are using low low level signals. As Din says:
tenor.png
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If you are grabbing the signals between the HU and the amp then you are using low low level signals. As Din says:
tenor.png
Indeed. Although I am still waiting on my RMA to come through for my LC6.1200, what a piece of junk, maybe someone dropped it or something. Hooked up an LC2i tonight so I can ship it back and started using my new Kappa ONE 6 mono amp, wow what a difference, getting full power and the xover works. The sub is almost too much now compared to the L6 and that is with less wattage at 4 ohms. (I suspect the AC was not putting out the proper power though, defective unit)
 

staxchips

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If i connect remote wire from line out converter to trunk's 12v turn on lead, will it be on all the time? or will my amp turn off when the car is off?
 

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If i connect remote wire from line out converter to trunk's 12v turn on lead, will it be on all the time? or will my amp turn off when the car is off?
Your LOC should have a 12v remote in and a 12v out, if your LOC is off when the car is off the amplifier will be off as well. (The LOC comes on when you start the car and shuts off when you open the door after you turn it off?)
 

staxchips

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Your LOC should have a 12v remote in and a 12v out, if your LOC is off when the car is off the amplifier will be off as well. (The LOC comes on when you start the car and shuts off when you open the door after you turn it off?)
LOC.png


I just connect remote wire from the amp to the blue/white wire right? but the amp will always be on?
 

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S550_Newbie

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LOC.png


I just connect remote wire from the amp to the blue/white wire right? but the amp will always be on?
Yes, remote in on the amp to this wire. Looking at that LOC, its 12v input is the yellow wire on the opposite side.
 

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Yes, remote in on the amp to this wire. Looking at that LOC, its 12v input is the yellow wire on the opposite side.
piggyback fuse.jpg

Should I use this to tap in the cigarette lighter fuse on the engine bay? So the amp turns off when the car is off?

I just connect the remote wire to the blue crimp right?
 

5.0_SD

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I do not recommend tapping into the cigarette lighter. The trunk is the best spot as been said above and many times in this thread. I tapped in the trunk to DSP and Two amps.
 

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There should be a blue remote wire in the harness going to the rear deck speakers. If you don't have rear deck speakers you can fuse tap but make sure you choose the right fuse, they are different depending on the year of the car. That is what I did for my remote amp turn on, ran a wire from the passenger kick panel fuse box to the rear and that turns 3 amplifiers on. You only need a small fuse for that lead too, its just a 12v signal on not a current draw line. This should help - https://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-mustang-2015-2019-fuses-and-relay
 

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Looking to upgrade all of my speakers on the factory premium amp first.
Have Hertz 24.3 tweeters and Hertz DSK165 6.5" coming...

How important is the 3.5" speaker having a tweeter built in? I know that the stock one doesn't have a tweeter, and finding 3.5" speakers WITHOUT a tweeter is actually fairly difficult.
 

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Cathul

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Findling 2.5 to 3.5 inch midrange speakers is no problem. Hertz, Focal, Scanspeak, Seas, Dayton, Audiofrog and many others. Just make sure you find some that fit in depth.
 

acemastr

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Findling 2.5 to 3.5 inch midrange speakers is no problem. Hertz, Focal, Scanspeak, Seas, Dayton, Audiofrog and many others. Just make sure you find some that fit in depth.
I'm talking about a 3.5" WITHOUT a tweeter in the middle. The stock 3.5" doesn't have a tweeter built in, everything I can find online does.
 

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I'm talking about a 3.5" WITHOUT a tweeter in the middle. The stock 3.5" doesn't have a tweeter built in, everything I can find online does.
You are looking for a 3 way component speaker system in that case. They are out there but not in great quantity. The problem with that is you will have to decide where to place your crossovers or you will have to run separate wire for your tweeter. Running wires to the door panel is not ideal since there is a plastic wire housing inside the rubber boot with everything running through it. The other option is to just use a 3.5 with a tweeter and set your crossover at your DSP, you can even do a bandpass and choose your slope so you never even hear the tweeter if you desire. From the wiring schematic, it shows the a-pillar tweeter and the door speaker tapped into the same amplifier output line, it labels the 3.5" stock speaker as a tweeter. How much mid bass do you think you will get out of a 3.5" door speaker?
 

acemastr

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You are looking for a 3 way component speaker system in that case. They are out there but not in great quantity. The problem with that is you will have to decide where to place your crossovers or you will have to run separate wire for your tweeter. Running wires to the door panel is not ideal since there is a plastic wire housing inside the rubber boot with everything running through it. The other option is to just use a 3.5 with a tweeter and set your crossover at your DSP, you can even do a bandpass and choose your slope so you never even hear the tweeter if you desire. From the wiring schematic, it shows the a-pillar tweeter and the door speaker tapped into the same amplifier output line, it labels the 3.5" stock speaker as a tweeter. How much mid bass do you think you will get out of a 3.5" door speaker?
I'm just looking for better, crisper quality. I have the Hertz 24.3 tweeters already, just wanting to improve the mids/highs a little more.
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