Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

S550_Newbie

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Is that a new product? I didn't see it last year when I was shopping.
Not too new, been around for a little while. I had one before I re-did my entire audio system. It works great. If you call Joe he will sell you just the harness too. I think its like 60 bucks and has a 17ft run to the trunk from the T harness at the amp. I have since replaced it with a DSR1 and a another harness that allowed me to remove the factory amplifier and replace it with 2 4 channel amps for the speakers.





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S550_Newbie

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So this kit does go in between the HU and factory amp? It confused me with every option including a LOC.
That's right. The T harness taps off of the HU preamp. You can order it with a LOC or amp.
 

Matti777

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Perhaps I am missing something here (wouldn't be the first time). I'm not sure why you would bother with that harness. I just tapped into the rear speaker wire and used the same LOC to add a sub. Lots of people have added a sub this way. If you are bypassing the factory amp in full then you need to buy or build an amp bypass harness. There was nothing available off the shelf last fall when I searched for a solution.
 

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Perhaps I am missing something here (wouldn't be the first time). I'm not sure why you would bother with that harness. I just tapped into the rear speaker wire and used the same LOC to add a sub. Lots of people have added a sub this way. If you are bypassing the factory amp in full then you need to buy or build an amp bypass harness. There was nothing available off the shelf last fall when I searched for a solution.
The difference is high level vs. low level and having to tap your cars speakers vs. a harness you can just unplug without splicing anything. Either way will get you a signal, personal preference. I started with this harness and quickly realized how shit-tastic the factory speakers were so I just re-did the entire audio system keeping the factory HU. Personally, a sub with shit speakers just sounds like a lot of bass.
 

Bocaj812

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Perhaps I am missing something here (wouldn't be the first time). I'm not sure why you would bother with that harness. I just tapped into the rear speaker wire and used the same LOC to add a sub. Lots of people have added a sub this way. If you are bypassing the factory amp in full then you need to buy or build an amp bypass harness. There was nothing available off the shelf last fall when I searched for a solution.
Trying to keep the factory amp atm. Overall I’m happy with the factory system aside from lacking low end. Maybe in a year or two I’ll add a 4 or 6ch and change out the speakers but for now just trying to add the sub. Rather tap the low level signal closest to the source. I’ll contact the site owner and see if they’ll sell me just the harness since the LOC shouldn’t be necessary.
 

Cathul

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Then don't use a T-harness, but a breakout harness, where you just pull the low-level signals from behind the radio while simultaneously feeding the stock amp with the same.
After all, it's still plug'n'play this way without any splicing of any wires whatsoever.
 

Bocaj812

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Then don't use a T-harness, but a breakout harness, where you just pull the low-level signals from behind the radio while simultaneously feeding the stock amp with the same.
After all, it's still plug'n'play this way without any splicing of any wires whatsoever.
Do you have a link to a specific harness? I’m not able to find anything promising looking up “s550 mustang radio breakout harness”
 

S550_Newbie

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Do you have a link to a specific harness? I’m not able to find anything promising looking up “s550 mustang radio breakout harness”
The one I linked above does exactly this.
 

S550_Newbie

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I wasn’t sure what the poster meant by a breakout harness vs the t harness already posted.
Some harnesses bypass the factory amplifier, others tap off existing wiring while continuing to feed the factory amplifier. This one does the later, it does not bypass the amplifier what so ever, it is only used for adding a subwoofer to the system.
 

OscarG50

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does anyone here know how strong the factory amp is for the 9 speaker setup? I'm upgrading my speakers and they recommend 15-125 Watts rms and I want to know if I really want to to upgrade the amp.
 

S550_Newbie

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does anyone here know how strong the factory amp is for the 9 speaker setup? I'm upgrading my speakers and they recommend 15-125 Watts rms and I want to know if I really want to to upgrade the amp.
You do, trust me. The factory tweeters are rated for 12 watts.
 

Jon 5.0 2015GT

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I figured this information is kind of scattered everywhere, so I am trying to condense it all into one place to help everyone out.

If there is information that needs to be edited or added, let me know. Hopefully I will be able to edit this later to keep it up to date.

Speaker Info
Base Model (6 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
6.5" (Rear Deck)

Premium Models 200A/400A (9 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
3.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
3.5" Center Channel (In dash)
6.5" (Rear Deck)

Premium Models w/ Shaker Audio 201A/401A (12 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
3.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
3.5" Center Channel (In dash)
6.5" Coax (Rear Deck)
Subwoofer

Speaker Pictures (Premium Shaker Shown) - Thank you stoli!!
1-X3.jpg

2-X3.jpg

3-X2.jpg


Amplifier Information
Base cars do not have an amplifier, all speakers are powered directly from the head unit.

Premium/Shaker cars have an amplifier in the drivers side kick panel area that is driven from line level feeds from the head unit. The center channel is "created" by the amplifier itself, not the head unit. The sub signal also seems to be artificially created as I see no wiring to suggest it comes directly from the head unit.

The subwoofer amplifier is located on the subwoofer box itself.

Wiring Information
Here are the wiring diagrams for the cars. Thank you Heinoceros.

Base radio (only shows front speakers):
4.png


Premium (including Shaker systems):
Head Unit to Amplifier
5.png


Amplifier to Speakers
6.png


Amplifier Connectors Thank you ThirtyThreePointThree and h65 for getting part numbers and the rest of this information.
These are made by Molex and can be had from Mouser.com.

34690-0160 - C4270 has the RCA-level audio and noise cancellation.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0160

34690-0161 - C2385A has most of the speaker outputs.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0161

34772-0142 - C2385B has the other speakers plus 6v Remote, 12V power and ground. Mouser does not stock the 34772-0142 plug so use the 34772-0140 variant. To use this you'll need to trim the bumps off the factory end. They come off easily with a boxknife. This is easier than trimming the inside of the new connector. It won't affect its ability to lock in place with the amp or the new connector.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34772-0140

Pre-Amp Signal Measurements - Thank you h65!
The range is 0.04 volts at 20% volume to 1.53 volts at 80% volume (and 3.1 volts at max volume) with a CD audio source. Measurement was taken from pins 7 and 8 which represent the front left signal.

12v Remote Turn-on Lead
There is one conveniently located in the trunk wiring harness near the right rear speaker. The wire you are looking for is the blue/white one.
Hello, I came across your thread because I’m actually kind of tired of what’s going on with my 401A model it has the shaker system with the crappy sub in the back. Let me give you a little break down of what I’ve done. I had all new speakers put in already and have 2 Amps in the trunk. I used high/low converters to gat signal for the sub and used the shaker 10” to do that with. I disconnected the 10” pulled it out and instead put a 10” mid loud speaker in there. Then I cut the 2 blue wires and 2 red wires that where feeding the old 10” in the shaker box and used a high/low converter to change to RCA. Then ran the rca’s to my amp and connected a 12” kicker 4ohm DVC. After that I had some good bass now had to do the same to the rest of the speaker. So I purchased a 4 channel amp used the stock amp speaker wires but instead of tapping into the wires that run from the head unit to the amp I cut them and ran some speaker wires to the back. I also used a high/low converter to get signal for the door and deck speakers. But after I connected everything and got a phone call I wasn’t getting and voice from the person I was talking to in the new speaker connection I made. Only voice was coming out was from the door mid range speaker s and the center speaker in the dash. Question I have is, Should I have just tapped into the speakers I cut away to run to the back for the amp. I was afraid if I did that I would blow the stock amp and then it would be a big problem because o know you can’t connect amp with amp if it doesn’t have a bridge feature. I want to get the voice from phone call in the rest of the speakers but I’m nerve about doing it. Let me if you made any kind of sense from what I tried to explain. 🤣
Thank you.
 

Dave2013M3

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Wow, they're called paragraphs.
 

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