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Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

GTP

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mumbles: In the universe of bad drivers, I am the Sun...
Hey [MENTION=20499]mumbles[/MENTION], in your tag line, do you mean that you are the one good driver in the center of many bad drivers, or do you mean that in a universe of bad drivers you are the worst? :lol:
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mumbles

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Hey [MENTION=20499]mumbles[/MENTION], in your tag line, do you mean that you are the one good driver in the center of many bad drivers, or do you mean that in a universe of bad drivers you are the worst? :lol:
I seem to attract crappy drivers... they orbit me :D
 
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Mid_life_crisis

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Looking at the diagrams, it appears that removing the factory amplifier will cause you to lose a couple of things.
1) active noise cancellation.
2) center channel.

Do you also lose the fake engine noise or does that come through the line outs from the HU?
Does anything else get lost or have functionality compromised?
 

car.a5

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I recently Replaced all of the Speakers added an infinity Bass link and Replaced the factory amp.In my 16 Ecoboost Premium 200A, I took some pictures of the various parts and thought someone might find them helpful.
Installed equipment.
Front
3.5 JBL 329
6.5 and A pillar JBL 609C
Rear Deck JBL 638
Amp Fosgate PBR300X4
Sub Infinity Bass Link.

Total cost $598.26
Very worth it!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0xb8cxzilvp3n9f/AAAzTWwM0mJFGeWWbM-BI3HMa?dl=0







hello friend
or can I get wiring harnesse for pbr300x4
 
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whokilledkaji

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Looking at the diagrams, it appears that removing the factory amplifier will cause you to lose a couple of things.
1) active noise cancellation.
2) center channel.

Do you also lose the fake engine noise or does that come through the line outs from the HU?
Does anything else get lost or have functionality compromised?
Interesting... I was thinking about bypassing the factory amp, but didn't think about the noise cancellation. Is it a good thing to loose that? I mean, I read somewhere that something in the cabin causes issues with subwoofers. Is it the noise cancellation?

Also, has anybody replaced the center channel? If so, what speaker did you get?
 

Mid_life_crisis

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Interesting... I was thinking about bypassing the factory amp, but didn't think about the noise cancellation. Is it a good thing to loose that? I mean, I read somewhere that something in the cabin causes issues with subwoofers. Is it the noise cancellation?

Also, has anybody replaced the center channel? If so, what speaker did you get?
The noise cancellation picks up the subwoofer, interprets it as road noise, and tries to generate a counterbalancing frequency to blot it out. From what I've read, if you want to experiment and see how the car sounds without it before taking out the amp, all you have to do is pull down the head liner in the rear of the car and disconnect the microphone you'll find in there. The liner is supposed to be held up by magnets back there so it isn't difficult. No, I have not tried it myself.

As for the center channel, I suggest that you want it to be as close to the three inch in the door as possible so they sound similar. I was going to say a coax version of the three and the tweeter combined, but most tweeters sound like crap bouncing off glass.
 

ForTehNguyen

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i abandoned my center channel when I installed my 8 channel amp. No need for it
 

thehiredgun

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Got a 16 GT350 Track Pack which means the engine sounds great but the stereo is close to Apple earbuds. Not interested in adding subs but would like to get a more full, capable sound. Thinking of doing bypassing the ACM, running the signal through a DSP similar to the JL Audio FiX86 and then an amp feeding into new speakers, maybe these Focals http://www.crutchfield.com/p_091PS165V/Focal-Performance-PS-165V.html

What am I missing here? Seems pretty straightforward but can't really believe I haven't missed something.
 

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Mid_life_crisis

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Did anyone ever determine the frequencies handled by each of the factory speakers in a 7 speaker system? What are the crossover points and where are the passive crossovers located in the car? Are they just a small capacitor stuck on the tweeter like in so many other factory systems?
 

wildcatgoal

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I can probably break out my gear and figure that out roughly without getting too into it.

But, you can get an RTA app for your phone, play pink noise and isolate front/left front/right, etc., point the phone mic at the speaker you want to test, and then review the RTA readings, adjusting volume until it's more clear that you're not picking up the other speakers playing. I do this, but usually disconnect other speakers which I'm not about to go do in my car right now, when I setup active crossovers in a processor in cars - I start crossovers at where the speakers naturally cut off and then blend in from there. Anyway... that'll give you a general idea. But, from what I'm hearing in my Shaker shyte system, the doors are probably setup as full-range or at least from 20hz to 500; the 3" is maybe just highpassed between 350-500 maybe; and the tweeter is highpassed at about 3K ish. It's really hard to tell because of how muddy or harsh EVERY SPEAKER IS.

Generally, although highly dependent on the speaker, I like to start a setup 3-ways with a sub as follows:

Sub = 20 to 80 hz
6.5" dedicated midbass (lower door) = 80 to 250-350 hz
3-3.5" dedicated midrange (upper door/apillar) = 250-350 hz to 5-6,000 hz
1" tweeter in apillar = 6,000 hz +

That's generally safe for all speakers involved, keeps vocal range in one speaker... blend and adjust accordingly.
 

HISSMAN

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I just read this whole thread, and I have no idea what 90% of it even means. Thanks for giving me an aneurysm on a Wendesday.
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