Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Aus550]

What 3 ways did you run up front? Crutchfield only list a couple that will fit?!? Is that why you added the mdf pod?Thanks for the info

They're K2 Power 2 ways. The factory woofer had a moulded plastic baffle built into the speaker itself.
The mdf baffles can be traced off 1 of the old speakers and knocked out pretty quickly. Gives a nice solid mounting point to produce great lows from the fronts.
Doors also had a bit of sound deadener applied to the outer skins also to make them nice and dead.

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[Axcell]

s555 amp diagram

Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the 9 speaker system amp .Want to install new system with line out converter. Thanks

 

[[email protected]]

So, I have a base model radio.

Anyone know the Molex connector that will connect to the factory harness for the ACM? The one that has all the speaker wires in it?

OEMRadio a member here made me a nice harness for that purpose! He can also custom make them if you need something specific.

you can find his contact info here: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54439

 

[ronnieb1958]

Thank you thank you thank you for posting the pics of the back of the speakers!

I got the Shaker 500 in my 2015 Ecoboost...i'd like to upgrade the stock speakers, subwoofer and the amp...question: if i replace the amp will it be able to remain in the same spot?...and should I upgrade the wiring?

 

[RevvdMedia]

I got the Shaker 500 in my 2015 Ecoboost...i'd like to upgrade the stock speakers, subwoofer and the amp...question: if i replace the amp will it be able to remain in the same spot?...and should I upgrade the wiring?

First thing, it's just Shaker, or Shaker Pro ;) The 500 was the old system in the 5th gen, just FYI.

There are two amps on the shaker system (if you have 301A "Shaker Pro" with the sub). If you only have Shaker (no sub) you only have one amp driving the speakers.

If you want to replace the amp for the speakers, it is in the driver kick panel, and you can only fit a really small amp in its place. I had the measurements once but that was on my old phone. I believe there was clearance for something like 5" x 7", or maybe a bit more.

If you want to replace the sub and rear amp (it's attached to the sub box I believe), then location would essentially be the same since it makes sense to keep the sub amp in the trunk with the sub.

As far as upgraded wiring, I would think the factory wires should be able to handle at least 50 watts RMS per speaker, as an educated guess. If you're going to push more than that, then upgrading the wiring would be a good idea, but a few people have noted it's a PITA.

FWIW, I ran an Alpine amp which was at least 50w RMS per speaker to aftermarket JL TR speakers, and at full volume, it was nearly concert volume with the windows up, so I'd think that would be plenty loud unless you're entering a sound competition. I'd drive to concerts with the volume as high as it would go to prep my ears for the show lol.

 

[ronnieb1958]

First thing, it's just Shaker, or Shaker Pro ;) The 500 was the old system in the 5th gen, just FYI.

There are two amps on the shaker system (if you have 301A "Shaker Pro" with the sub). If you only have Shaker (no sub) you only have one amp driving the speakers.

If you want to replace the amp for the speakers, it is in the driver kick panel, and you can only fit a really small amp in its place. I had the measurements once but that was on my old phone. I believe there was clearance for something like 5" x 7", or maybe a bit more.

If you want to replace the sub and rear amp (it's attached to the sub box I believe), then location would essentially be the same since it makes sense to keep the sub amp in the trunk with the sub.

As far as upgraded wiring, I would think the factory wires should be able to handle at least 50 watts RMS per speaker, as an educated guess. If you're going to push more than that, then upgrading the wiring would be a good idea, but a few people have noted it's a PITA.

FWIW, I ran an Alpine amp which was at least 50w RMS per speaker to aftermarket JL TR speakers, and at full volume, it was nearly concert volume with the windows up, so I'd think that would be plenty loud unless you're entering a sound competition. I'd drive to concerts with the volume as high as it would go to prep my ears for the show lol.

appreciate the clarification...I do have the 201A Shaker Pro Audio system w/subwoofer and 12 speakers...Do you know how many watts the stock speakers run?...because 50 watts is fine with me...i want a clear, tight sound.

lastly, what's a PTIA?

thanx again.

 

[RevvdMedia]

appreciate the clarification...I do have the 201A Shaker Pro Audio system w/subwoofer and 12 speakers...Do you know how many watts the stock speakers run?...because 50 watts is fine with me...i want a clear, tight sound.

lastly, what's a PTIA?

thanx again.

Yeah, forgot it was 201A...too many model codes.

If i remember correctly, when I pulled my speakers out when I changed mine, they said 25 watts, for every one that was labeled. I don't remember if the 3.5" were 25 or 35 watts. It's somewhere deep in the forum here from when someone else took his out. Either way, I'm betting that is not RMS, I'd be thinking most of the speakers in the car are pushing about 12.5W RMS. He had the Shaker Pro and I believe they were the same rated wattage from his pics, and they run off the same amp anyway, so that would make sense.

And PITA is Pain In The Ass. lol.

In terms of rewiring the speakers, guys doing it were saying it was a pain to rewire from the doors into the main part of the car in the door grommet.

 

[15RRGT]

I figured this information is kind of scattered everywhere, so I am trying to condense it all into one place to help everyone out.

If there is information that needs to be edited or added, let me know. Hopefully I will be able to edit this later to keep it up to date.

Speaker Info
Base Model (6 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
6.5" (Rear Deck)

Premium Models 200A/400A (9 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
3.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
3.5" Center Channel (In dash)
6.5" (Rear Deck)

Premium Models w/ Shaker Audio 201A/401A (12 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
3.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
3.5" Center Channel (In dash)
6.5" Coax (Rear Deck)
Subwoofer

Speaker Pictures (Premium Shaker Shown) - Thank you stoli!!

Amplifier Information
Base cars do not have an amplifier, all speakers are powered directly from the head unit.

Premium/Shaker cars have an amplifier in the drivers side kick panel area that is driven from line level feeds from the head unit. The center channel is "created" by the amplifier itself, not the head unit. The sub signal also seems to be artificially created as I see no wiring to suggest it comes directly from the head unit.

The subwoofer amplifier is located on the subwoofer box itself.

Wiring Information
Here are the wiring diagrams for the cars. Thank you Heinoceros.

Base radio (only shows front speakers):

Premium (including Shaker systems):
Head Unit to Amplifier

Amplifier to Speakers

Amplifier Connectors Thank you ThirtyThreePointThree and h65 for getting part numbers and the rest of this information.
These are made by Molex and can be had from Mouser.com.

34690-0160 - C4270 has the RCA-level audio and noise cancellation.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0160

34690-0161 - C2385A has most of the speaker outputs.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0161

34772-0142 - C2385B has the other speakers plus 6v Remote, 12V power and ground. Mouser does not stock the 34772-0142 plug so use the 34772-0140 variant. To use this you'll need to trim the bumps off the factory end. They come off easily with a boxknife. This is easier than trimming the inside of the new connector. It won't affect its ability to lock in place with the amp or the new connector.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34772-0140

Pre-Amp Signal Measurements - Thank you h65!
The range is 0.04 volts at 20% volume to 1.53 volts at 80% volume (and 3.1 volts at max volume) with a CD audio source. Measurement was taken from pins 7 and 8 which represent the front left signal.

12v Remote Turn-on Lead
There is one conveniently located in the trunk wiring harness near the right rear speaker. The wire you are looking for is the blue/white one.

Can anyone see the pix and or diagrams in the first post? I can't .....

 

[ronnieb1958]

Can anyone see the pix and or diagrams in the first post? I can't .....

i can't see the pictures and the wiring information either...

 

[15RRGT]

Does anyone have the speaker wire colors for a base car base radio system? Looking for FR, FL, RR, RL + & - info.

 

[mumbles]

Can anyone see the pix and or diagrams in the first post? I can't .....

i can't see the pictures and the wiring information either...

I found I had squirrelled these away on my computer, hope they help;

Head Unit to Amp

Amp to Speakers

 

[ronnieb1958]

I found I had squirrelled these away on my computer, hope they help;

Head Unit to Amp

Amp to Speakers

M, i'm a novice...what am i looking at?...if i brought these diagrams to the cat who would replace my speakers and amps, how would it help him?

 

[15RRGT]

I found I had squirrelled these away on my computer, hope they help;

Head Unit to Amp

Amp to Speakers

Thanks for posting the info! But I need the info for the base unit cars (radio directly to the speakers, no amplifier in the system).

 

[mumbles]

M, i'm a novice...what am i looking at?...if i brought these diagrams to the cat who would replace my speakers and amps, how would it help him?

It would show him where to pick off the hi-level or lo-level signals to use to feed either a line-level converter or an amp...

 

[nate154]

Where's the 12v constant wire for the car audio?

Thanks.

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