Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Mootang]

I am still interested in running new wires. Read the thread, but still can't figure out how hard it really is to wire the front door speakers into the cabin? Any help as to how PITA this is will be great for me to install my setup in a week

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[GTP]

I am still interested in running new wires. Read the thread, but still can't figure out how hard it really is to wire the front door speakers into the cabin? Any help as to how PITA this is will be great for me to install my setup in a week

Why do you want to run new wires to the speakers?

 

[Mootang]

Why do you want to run new wires to the speakers?

I have a base GT and planning on installing JL Audio speakers all around with a stealth box and all powered. Here is my plan so far:

Front Speakers: ZR650 CSi components
Rear Speakers: C5 650X coaxials
Sub: Stealth Box
Amp: HD900/5 - 900W 5 channels
Headunit: Stock, but I upgraded to the 8" from OEM Radio Solutions guy who said he will program the audio line out to be all low. So I am assuming I won't need any signal processor or cleanup.

I know how to hook up the power and everything, but I do want to run 12 AWG wires to the new speakers and the OEM ones are too small. Am I planning this out right so far?

 

[GTP]

I have a base GT and planning on installing JL Audio speakers all around with a stealth box and all powered. Here is my plan so far:

Front Speakers: ZR650 CSi components
Rear Speakers: C5 650X coaxials
Sub: Stealth Box
Amp: HD900/5 - 900W 5 channels
Headunit: Stock, but I upgraded to the 8" from OEM Radio Solutions guy who said he will program the audio line out to be all low. So I am assuming I won't need any signal processor or cleanup.

I know how to hook up the power and everything, but I do want to run 12 AWG wires to the new speakers and the OEM ones are too small. Am I planning this out right so far?

Mine was a loaded question. I am an ex-professional loudspeaker designer. I say that so that what I am about to say is more than just opinion. My credentials

It is a myth that large gauge wire is superior. In fact, it is a detriment to sound quality, except perhaps for very large and very high-powered bass systems, which are only found in those crazy audio competition cars.

In fact, there are two (actually 3) ways that wire degrades sound - oversize gauge, and stranding. Both veil the upper frequencies.

It is advisable to stick with stranded wire in a car, due to reliability. (Since the doors open and close all the time, and because of vibration.)

So that leaves us only with gauge. Please - do not go out and buy a spool of large gauge Monster stranded wire with PVC insulation!

In the final analysis, moderate gauge wire already in the car is a reasonable compromise, and there really are no gains to be had by replacing it. Besides, it is already there for all 3 door speakers, cut and routed properly, etc.

Don't fix what is not broken.

 

[Mootang]

Mine was a loaded question. I am an ex-professional loudspeaker designer. I say that so that what I am about to say is more than just opinion. My credentials

It is a myth that large gauge wire is superior. In fact, it is a detriment to sound quality, except perhaps for very large and very high-powered bass systems, which are only found in those crazy audio competition cars.

In fact, there are two (actually 3) ways that wire degrades sound - oversize gauge, and stranding. Both veil the upper frequencies.

It is advisable to stick with stranded wire in a car, due to reliability. (Since the doors open and close all the time, and because of vibration.)

So that leaves us only with gauge. Please - do not go out and buy a spool of large gauge Monster stranded wire with PVC insulation!

In the final analysis, moderate gauge wire already in the car is a reasonable compromise, and there really are no gains to be had by replacing it. Besides, it is already there for all 3 door speakers, cut and routed properly, etc.

Don't fix what is not broken.

That sounds easier to do, but now I am confused as to how to power up the speakers with the amp? would I need to tap into the factory wires? Sorry im still new to the speakers thing for this car lol :headbonk:

 

[GTP]

Yes, much easier to stick with the factory speaker wires.

As for the amp, I should probably not say too much. I come from a high-end home audio perspective with over 20 years R&D experience. And yet even with all this experience, I myself would likely try to also stay with the factory amp even if I swapped out the speaker units. It is [MENTION=20927]OEMRadio[/MENTION] 's help with deprogramming the head unit EQ that is more important here.

IOW, I recommend to slow down and take things in stages. Replace the front speakers if you want, but keep them wired to the factory amp, and then pursue getting the head unit EQ replaced to whatever is appropriate for the new speakers. This step is really beyond the capability of the majority of DIY'ers that replace car speakers, just because of all the audio knowledge and equipment that is required to do it properly. If that step was successfully, then technically you could swap the amp next without further programming. If the system gets plenty loud for you, then there is no need to put in a more powerful amp.

Sorry to inform you, but when comes to audio, whenever someone thinks they are sticking their toe into the deep end of the pool, eventually they look up and realize they are standing at the edge of the ocean.

 

[Mootang]

Yes, much easier to stick with the factory speaker wires.

As for the amp, I should probably not say too much. I come from a high-end home audio perspective with over 20 years R&D experience. And yet even with all this experience, I myself would likely try to also stay with the factory amp even if I swapped out the speaker units. It is [MENTION=20927]OEMRadio[/MENTION] 's help with deprogramming the head unit EQ that is more important here.

IOW, I recommend to slow down and take things in stages. Replace the front speakers if you want, but keep them wired to the factory amp, and then pursue getting the head unit EQ replaced to whatever is appropriate for the new speakers. This step is really beyond the capability of the majority of DIY'ers that replace car speakers, just because of all the audio knowledge and equipment that is required to do it properly. If that step was successfully, then technically you could swap the amp next without further programming. If the system gets plenty loud for you, then there is no need to put in a more powerful amp.

Sorry to inform you, but when comes to audio, whenever someone thinks they are sticking their toe into the deep end of the pool, eventually they look up and realize they are standing at the edge of the ocean.

Thank you! I think I have to install and run an amp because I don't have the factory amp on my car (or any any amp right now lol). I only have the base model with the 6 factory speakers right now, unfortunately :frusty:. I am goign to revise my audio plan and see what is easier now, thanks again!

 

[GTP]

In that case, then yes I suppose you would be looking for a 6-channel amp. But I would follow [MENTION=20927]OEMRadio[/MENTION] 's advice here, because it seems as though he has blazed the trail for us pretty much.

Imagine how much a lifelong audiophile like me thinks the factory system's sound sux. But since I'm a little burned out on audio R&D, I am not sure what if anything I will do for my own car.

Sad, really, because most luxury cars that have any high-end badge on it (Infinity, Bose, JBL, Mark Levinson, etc.) really have great sounding systems. And this is because they had a talented design team that knew what they were doing.

Personally I think that while the 401a system does sound better, it still does not sound $1800 better (or whatever fraction of that which is the sound system itself).

 

[nate154]

Thank you! I think I have to install and run an amp because I don't have the factory amp on my car (or any any amp right now lol). I only have the base model with the 6 factory speakers right now, unfortunately :frusty:. I am goign to revise my audio plan and see what is easier now, thanks again!

I think you want to get a 9 wire, and you can cut the speaker wires behind the dash and hook up straight to the 9 wire. Then run that back to the amp. I wish I would have done this. I ran new wire because of a video I saw. It said if running 100 watts or more, run new wire. Oh well. The first way is so much cleaner and easier!

 

[mumbles]

I would recommend picking up some molex connectors that will plug into the cables coming from the head unit... no cutting of wires necessary.

 

[Mootang]

Thanks everyone! So I went forward with OEM Radio Solutions SYNC 3 upgrade instead of the my initial audio plan. He has a new harness that splits out 4 RCA cables from the head unit. Then I decided on a JL Audio amp that can take in the 4 RCA (front and rears) and output 6 channels out (apparently, the amp does this internally). So no cutting factory wires and I will be running new wires from the amp to all the speakers. I will provide more information and pictures of the setup once I get started this weekend

 

[Racemaster]

Here is how I attacked it.It was a brutal ordeal to make it all fit.:frusty:

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58862&highlight=audio

 

[Cobra Jet]

Thanks everyone! So I went forward with OEM Radio Solutions SYNC 3 upgrade instead of the my initial audio plan. He has a new harness that splits out 4 RCA cables from the head unit. Then I decided on a JL Audio amp that can take in the 4 RCA (front and rears) and output 6 channels out (apparently, the amp does this internally). So no cutting factory wires and I will be running new wires from the amp to all the speakers. I will provide more information and pictures of the setup once I get started this weekend

How easy or difficult is it to install that harness that you bought? Are there a lot of components at the center console that have to be removed in order to install that harness? Any instructions you can post?

 

[Mootang]

How easy or difficult is it to install that harness that you bought? Are there a lot of components at the center console that have to be removed in order to install that harness? Any instructions you can post?

Soooo I forgot to take pictures and it took me all day to install last year. I even forgot about this post. If you are just installing the harness, then it is pretty easy. There are a few YouTube videos out there on on taking the dash, center console, and factory headunit out. The best video was from someone that mentioned to pull out the center console (cup holder-tranny part). I need to look up the video again and will post a link.

The harness is almost fools proof as they only go into the factory ones one way and one size. If you are going to have more options from OEM Solutions, then there are a few more cables to hook up, but OEM is available via phone and text to answer the questions. I contacted him in the middle of my install and he explained to me which wires go where for my Apple CarPlay set up.

I don't have any instructions, but it is pretty much removing the dash first, center console side part, the center console itself (not the whole thing, just pop it off enough, and then the head unit. The hardest part for my setup were running new audio wires (water sealing it in the doors killed me) and finding the remote on power wire.

If you want, I am waiting on some good weather to show up here in Cali and then making a video of some carbon parts for another member here. I can probably make a video of my setup too for you to see what I did (my center console is pulled apart right now lol).

 

[Mootang]

Found the video. This video helped me the most during removal of the install. All the wiring was pretty easy after that.

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