Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Cathul]

If you got the 12 speaker system you have line level.

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[Todd00000]

Never mind.

 

[RubberyDuck]

New amp is in and everything is working beautifully.

My one challenge is that despite the DSR- being setup with the correct firmware, the reverse sensor beep is now very quiet and feels like it’s only coming from the rear speakers (perhaps it always was?), but the volume is far too low to be audible over even quiet music.

Can anyone help?

 

[Cathul]

You tried to raise the volume on the volume know while the reverse sensors are beeping?
As far as i know the volume of the beeps can be set up this way.
But i might be wrong about that as i didn't had this problem.
In doubt ask at 12voltdata.com. Maestro is answering quick to such questions.

 

[Jonas-RR-GT]

Had some car audio equipment installed by a local shop.
Factory head unit
Audio Control D-6.1200 powering front speakers
Hertz 3 way running active for all 6 speakers
Audio Control L-1-1500
JL Audio 12TW3 4 ohm speakers
Enclosure by Zenclosures.com

 

[Racemaster]

Nice!
How do you like it?It is very close to my setup.At the time the audio control was just getting released and not out to the public yet.
I used the Helix P-Six instead which cost a tad bit more,but there was not many choices when I did my system.
I do feel that a good clean powerful system needs the 125 watts per channel.I did try it on 75 watts a channel,but it was just not enough for me.Did the shop tune it for you also?And the bigger question is,do you hear any background hiss or noise.

 

[Jonas-RR-GT]

Nice!
How do you like it?It is very close to my setup.At the time the audio control was just getting released and not out to the public yet.
I used the Helix P-Six instead which cost a tad bit more,but there was not many choices when I did my system.
I do feel that a good clean powerful system needs the 125 watts per channel.I did try it on 75 watts a channel,but it was just not enough for me.Did the shop tune it for you also?And the bigger question is,do you hear any background hiss or noise.

I really like having the front running active. I don't hear any background noise. Yes the shop did the tuning, but I will be back to have them tune for more bass. I feel the front may overpower the bass.

 

[RubberyDuck]

I really like having the front running active. I don't hear any background noise. Yes the shop did the tuning, but I will be back to have them tune for more bass. I feel the front may overpower the bass.

You really ought to finesse the tune yourself. Sound is so subjective. They likely tuned for a very flat curve (as they should), but I’ve found the mustang needs more low end to compensate for the engine. It gets lost instantly when driving.

 

[Racemaster]

I'm curious where they set each driver up to play.
I think my 6.5's are 90hz-450hz,the 3.5 is 450hz -5,000hz and the tweeter is 5,000hz to wide open.
I also put a small gap in the sub.I think it plays from 75hz down to 30hz, or something like that.
I do agree to open up that software and learn how to adjust it yourself.

 

[Rash]

The ACM feeds a full range signal to the amp where the DSP/crossover filtering is applied sending low-pass to the lower doors and mid to high-pass to the mid/tweet combo. The tweeter has a capacitor hard wire to filter the low frequencies. I'm not certain what the actual crossover points are.
.

So does this mean that both the 3.5 and the pillar tweeter are outputting high fequency - the 3.5 handles mids and highs, and the pillar tweeter just high?

Also, does the center dash speaker get a full range signal?

 

[tcclindy]

I started out with DSR1, had so many issues, damn thing was buggy and sounded marginal at best. Going to my best describe what I did.

Removed the factory amp and sub, shaker pro system.

Sent back the DSR1 and kept the aF03 T-Harness, I cut the blue, green, grey, white and purple wires and soldered them to an 4 channel RCA cord, I cut off the ends on the one end. Used a piece of speedwire that I ran from the trunk and spliced into the brown and grey connectors for the adapter that connects to the factory speakers. Connected opposite end to amplifier outputs. Used the blue eire for my remote turn on. On the adapter I cut the rest of the wires off, no need for the black, brown or yellow wire just tape them up good so they don’t short out. Then plug in the aF03 harness into you cars wiring harness that went to your old amp, and the brown and grey adapters going to speakers. Keep in mind these wires only handle front doors and tweeters. Disconnected Mids in doors since mid/tweets on same line. 2 wires for tweets, 2 for door 6 inch, that 8 wires, blue is your remote.

Next I used the forscan app and flashed my radio with these codes.

727-01-01 xx5A xxxx xxxx
727-01-02 00xx

At this point you can plug right into your amp as low level inputs, sound same as DSR1 at this point, later I added a JL TWK-88 the sound went through the roof for me, there is absolutely endless control on your tuning now. I also dynamited the entire car, boy did that ever make a difference.

I think it sounds beautiful with my setup, there is no comparison to stock sound. Bottom line you can buy the harness, rca wire and a 12 foot piece of speedwire for 70-80 bucks, fill in everything else with whatever you like, below is a list of what I put in.

Hope this helps others.


AMP
https://www.jlaudio.com/xd1000-5v2-car-audio-xdv2-amplifiers-98258

DSP
https://www.jlaudio.com/twk-88-car-audio-processors-system-tuning-98101

Front
https://www.jlaudio.com/c5-650-car-audio-speakers-c5-speaker-systems-99104

Rear
https://www.jlaudio.com/c5-650x-car-audio-speakers-c5-coaxial-systems-99105

Sub
https://www.jlaudio.com/ho112-w6v3-car-audio-h-o-wedge-subwoofer-systems-93315

 

[Cobra Jet]

Has anyone successfully used 8” speakers in the doors OR the rear deck over the factory 6.5” - or is it not possible due to door depth and factory punched holes in rear deck?

 

[wsfrazier]

Is it possible to use a true 3-way component system on the front doors with the factory amp? I have the 9 speaker premium system. Looking for speaker replacements but don't want to go all in on amps and wiring. Can I just use one of the factory speaker wires as the signal/feed?

If not, I was looking at the Infinity Kappa 300m as a replacement 3.5 mid-range speaker. Will it fit? It says 1 3/4" depth, and I thought the max was 1.25"-1.5" I do see other guys on here claiming to be using it though.

 

[Bsingh897]

Not sure if this is covered already but I have a 2017 mustang base with 6 speaker system. I’m upgrading all speakers and I’m trying to figure out how I can run a wire from amp to speaker door without going through the door and fishing the wire in the door boot. How can I tap the existing oem speaker wire that is installed already? I’m having hard time finding it.

 

[Cathul]

Not sure if this is covered already but I have a 2017 mustang base with 6 speaker system. I’m upgrading all speakers and I’m trying to figure out how I can run a wire from amp to speaker door without going through the door and fishing the wire in the door boot. How can I tap the existing oem speaker wire that is installed already? I’m having hard time finding it.

With the 6-speaker system the speakers are fed right from the ACM. So use a T-harness like the CARAV 12-240 and some Stinger speedwire to get the signal to your amp and back to the speaker wires right behind the ACM. This would be the easiest way to do it.
If you want to feed your midbass and tweeter with separate wires from the passive crossover, well, the A-pillar wiring doesn't have to go through the door, but you can still use the existing wiring for the midbass. So same principles apply. You can find lots of videos on youtube on how to work with a T-harness, like from 5star car audio.

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