Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Emilbadal]

Alright one final update from my side: So I tore up the dash and pulled the ACM and I used grounding wire with alligator clips to test ground issues with the ACM. Nothing resolved the static. Since I was in there I installed the PAC TR-4 so that my amps turn on/off at the same time the ACM does. Basically it takes the 6v turn on wire and provide 12v remote to the amp. During some of my research there were cases who people took their cars to dealership and the dealerships changed their ACMs and their issue with the hissing was solved. I can’t take my car to the dealership because I have a sync3 swap, they won’t touch it. All I could do after that was that I went through all my passive crossovers and tuned the high pass filters down by -3db and lowered the gains on my amps even lower than what they were. Now the hissing is barely noticeable and the high pitched noise is really faint so much so that I have to listen for it. During my research I also learned that class D amplifiers are much more efficient than the class AB and most of them are much more sensitive to the input signal. So naturally if there’s even slight noise in the signal they’ll amplify it unlike the class AB where depending on their S/N ratio sensitivity they can be more forgiving. I won’t be fiddling with my setup anymore, I’m done with it!

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[RubberyDuck]

Help! We’ve wired in everything and when we turn on the car, the Audison Amp AP4D flashes an error (which on loopup says: error in speaker configuration). We removed all but a single input/output from the DSR1 and nothing improved.

Additionally, the AP1D doesn’t seem to turn on at all! We have verified the power and remote feeds, voltages check out and switching occurs as expected.

Does anyone have any idea what might be going on?!

 

[Emilbadal]

1- Check the AP1D's fuse.
2- Check your wiring and connect a pair of input and outputs. Keep them balanced. Left and right | either on front or rear channel.

Post a photo if you can that might give some clue

 

[RubberyDuck]

1- Check the AP1D's fuse.
2- Check your wiring and connect a pair of input and outputs. Keep them balanced. Left and right | either on front or rear channel.

Post a photo if you can that might give some clue

We checked the amp fuse, all fine there.

With regards to the balanced outputs, is that something the amp would flag as an error? Surely an amp wouldn’t care whether it was running 1 channel, or 2, 3, or 4?

 

[Emilbadal]

It depends on the amp. I noticed on my class D amp when I hooked up only one channel when I was installing it for the first time and ran it for 4-5 mins on moderate volume the amp got alarmingly hot. But once I hooked up all channels I could crank it all the way up without any heat issues.

 

[RubberyDuck]

It depends on the amp. I noticed on my class D amp when I hooked up only one channel when I was installing it for the first time and ran it for 4-5 mins on moderate volume the amp got alarmingly hot. But once I hooked up all channels I could crank it all the way up without any heat issues.

After further investigation I’ve concluded that the AP4D is faulty. So will return. I’m wondering about replacing it with the Audison AP8.9, so I can run every speaker active. Would I run into issues running the AP8.9 (with a built in DSP) through the DSR1? I would leave the DSR1 DSP flat, essentially using it as an expensive Maestro module. Does the DSR1 do anything to the audio signals that would stop the AP8.9 working correctly?

 

[Cathul]

You can do that. I did the same, but with a Mosconi D2 100.4 DSP amplifier.
But do yourself a flavor and get the AP8.9F (that's for Forza). Has much more power than the normal AP8.9.

You can then either do the DSP thing in the DSR1 or in the AP8.9F. Use whatever software is more intuitive for you.

 

[RubberyDuck]

You can do that. I did the same, but with a Mosconi D2 100.4 DSP amplifier.
But do yourself a flavor and get the AP8.9F (that's for Forza). Has much more power than the normal AP8.9.

You can then either do the DSP thing in the DSR1 or in the AP8.9F. Use whatever software is more intuitive for you.

Oh Cathul. Why would you tell me that existed? It’s £400 more!

 

[Cathul]

I know... but 35W@4Ohm each channel really isn't enough power. ;)

 

[RubberyDuck]

I know... but 35W@4Ohm each channel really isn't enough power. ;)

Yeah, I was saddened to see it wasn’t the 70w per channel provided by the AP4D. But at least that’s 35w to each speaker, instead of 70w split over the three front speakers.

Any more wallet friendly alternatives?

 

[Cathul]

Well, not with 8 channels unfortunately.
More to choose from when going 6 channel and still using the mono amp from Audison for sub.
For 6 channel I would take a look at Audiocontrol. Still not cheap, but less than the Audison AP8.9Forza. ;)
And it has lots of power with 6x125W @4Ohm.

 

[RubberyDuck]

We’ve got the subwoofer running nicely, at 2ohms. New amp turns up tomorrow. One thing I’m a little concerned about is that so far the system feels like it’ll be very quiet. To get any real oomph out of the sub the system needs to be turned up to a high volume. The sub has plenty of power available to it, especially in 2ohm configuration. Is it something to do with the head unit’s output? Do I need to change something with forscan? The DSR1 shows an input of -69db. That’s not right, is it?

 

[Cathul]

You have configured the DSR1 for the Maestro harness and not universal mode, right? If yes you cannot alter the gain on the DSR1, but you definitely need to set gains correctly on the amplifiers.
If you have configured the DSR1 as universal device you need to reconfigure it as a Maestro device. If you want to stay on universal set the input gain to 2V in the app of the DSR1 and then set gains on the amps afterwards to match the output of the DSR1.

 

[RubberyDuck]

You have configured the DSR1 for the Maestro harness and not universal mode, right? If yes you cannot alter the gain on the DSR1, but you definitely need to set gains correctly on the amplifiers.
If you have configured the DSR1 as universal device you need to reconfigure it as a Maestro device. If you want to stay on universal set the input gain to 2V in the app of the DSR1 and then set gains on the amps afterwards to match the output of the DSR1.

Yeah, it’s configured correctly. As are the amps. I don’t think the input signal from the head unit should be -69db, but I don’t know what to do about it

 

[RubberyDuck]

Yeah, it’s configured correctly. As are the amps. I don’t think the input signal from the head unit should be -69db, but I don’t know what to do about it

I am yet to make any changes with ForScan. Are we certain that my shaker pro is set to line level? Would the factory eq setting be causing it? I assume I can check the ForScan entry in the ACM is correct for line level?

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