Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Evolvd]

I wanted to use something like that, but I was under the impression that it didn't fit in our Mustangs. At least Crutchfield would have me believe. They offer Rockford Fosgate DSR1 as an option, and pricing wise they are about the same. I definitely want to replace to factory multi channel amp at some point. For my sub that I'm installing, I have a clipped male wiring harness from a skater pro sub that I'm going to t-splice (I know I was knocking the other guy for doing that, but this won't involve any splicing or cutting I the factory harnesses) and use a line output converter.

With 101 pages of replies, I admittedly didn't read every post but if the PAC Pro amp works for our cars, I wouldn't be against checking it out!

Yes the PAC Amp Pro AP-FD21 is what you want. As long as your amp is the same one they describe in the pictures it works. They also say it doesn’t work with the 2021 B&O system but it does.

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[makamajwalker]

Yes the PAC Amp Pro AP-FD21 is what you want. As long as your amp is the same one they describe in the pictures it works. They also say it doesn’t work with the 2021 B&O system but it does.

Oh ok, awesome. Thanks for letting me know, I'll look into that!

 

[makamajwalker]

In looking into the PAC Amp Pro AP-FD21, it looks like I'll need the APH-FD01 wiring harness to make it work, is that right do you know? Or is that only needed in order to retain the factory amp as well? I'm looking at all the connectors and in pictures, it's hard to tell if the AP-FD21 kit alone will allow me to bypass the stock Shaker Pro amp.

These new car stereos are a bit over complicated IMO... Lol. Realizing this dates me a bit, back in the 90s, we could kick out an absolute banger of a sound system with pretty basic, universal parts and for only around a few hundred bucks! Sheesh! Also, my older 2001 Mustang GT had a Mach460 sound system, and that thing KICKED HARD! How the hell does Ford get away with selling sub-mediocrity for a premium price!? Lol!

 

[Evolvd]

In looking into the PAC Amp Pro AP-FD21, it looks like I'll need the APH-FD01 wiring harness to make it work, is that right do you know? Or is that only needed in order to retain the factory amp as well? I'm looking at all the connectors and in pictures, it's hard to tell if the AP-FD21 kit alone will allow me to bypass the stock Shaker Pro amp.

These new car stereos are a bit over complicated IMO... Lol. Realizing this dates me a bit, back in the 90s, we could kick out an absolute banger of a sound system with pretty basic, universal parts and for only around a few hundred bucks! Sheesh! Also, my older 2001 Mustang GT had a Mach460 sound system, and that thing KICKED HARD! How the hell does Ford get away with selling sub-mediocrity for a premium price!? Lol!

You certainly don’t need the FD01 harness but it makes wiring much simpler. The Amp Pro will mount behind the dash and then you’ll need to run RCA or Optical (if you buy the toslink adapter). The FD01 allows you to use the stock audio wiring which is beneficial as there’s no easy way to run new wire into the doors. The FD01 plugs into the system at the stock amp location but it does not plug into the amp.

 

[makamajwalker]

I wanted to use something like that, but I was under the impression that it didn't fit in our Mustangs. At least Crutchfield would have me believe. They offer Rockford Fosgate DSR1 as an option, and pricing wise they are about the same. I definitely want to replace to factory multi channel amp at some point. For my sub that I'm installing, I have a clipped male wiring harness from a skater pro sub that I'm going to t-splice (I know I was knocking the other guy for doing that, but this won't involve any splicing or cutting I the factory harnesses) and use a line output converter.

With 101 pages of replies, I admittedly didn't read every post but if the PAC Pro amp works for our cars, I wouldn't be against checking it out!

You certainly don’t need the FD01 harness but it makes wiring much simpler. The Amp Pro will mount behind the dash and then you’ll need to run RCA or Optical (if you buy the toslink adapter). The FD01 allows you to use the stock audio wiring which is beneficial as there’s no easy way to run new wire into the doors. The FD01 plugs into the system at the stock amp location but it does not plug into the amp.

Ah, that makes sense. I'll probably grab it too when it's time to upgrade the amp. For now, the stereo will suffice. Thanks so much for your time and suggestion!

 

[Cathul]

Wow, that is just…bless their heart. Since you have the Shaker system are you planning to use the PAC Audio Amp Pro for integration?

There is no Pac Audio Amp Pro for the Shaker System or the 9-speaker system in later Mustangs.
The AmpPro is specifically made for SONY or B&O systems.

 

[Cathul]

But it’s no digital system.
Pac-Audio explicitly states that you need to have the B&O system for the AmpPro you mentioned.

 

[Rob1103]

Man so much info in this thread, read approx the first 60 pages and I think (hopefully) this will solve my problem. I have a 2016 GT premium with sub, so will #7 below keep me from having to Forscan into the ACM and get plugs from mouser and rewire everything. Is it more or less plug and play. I believe I read somewhere that it won’t work with my car, and just wanted to check here. Thanks for any and all replies!!

Ok... 12 speaker system.

1) no need to reprogram the ACM for line level output. The ACM in the 12 speaker system with amp in the drivers kick panel already is set to variable line level, so all good here.
1a) remove the equalization in the ACM with ForScan.
2) you need a T-harness (f.e. made from the CARAV 12-240 or from a Metra DSP harness for Ford cars) to add RCA connectors to the 4 output channels. Those channels are not sent to the amp in the drivers kick panel anymore afterwards, as the wires are interrupted then.
3) chimes, balance and fader will still be available if running 4 channels to your amp.
4) physically removing the stock amp leads to DTCs. The amp is connected to the CAN bus in your car, so I wouldn't (and don't have) remove it.
5) disconnect all unneeded speakers (center channel f.e.).
6) run new speaker wires to the passive crossovers and from there to the speakers.

Best solution:
7) all gets a lot easier with a Rockford Fosgate DSR1 and the appropriate car specific harness from Maestro (HRN-AR-FO3) and maybe an extension cable if you want to put the DSR1 in the trunk (HRN-AR-EXT2 or EXT4, you still need aftermarket amps and the appropriate wiring). You can remove the stock amp then.
The harness connects to the stock amplifier connectors in the drivers kick panel. You also can use the harness to reuse existing speaker wiring for connecting your aftermarket amp to your new speakers for the front. The harness has loose wire ends pinned to the appropriate connectors for this.
I still would connect the rear speakers and sub with new speaker wires as they are easily reachable in the trunk. This will set you back about 350,-- $, but it's worth it as it's a lot less work in my opinion. The DSR1 even sends the correct CAN bus messages when your stock amp is disconnected, so no DTCs when read out at the dealer. In addition the DSR1 contains a capable DSP which you can use to tune your new system to your liking. It's basically a Maestro amp replacement module and DSP in one tiny box.

I know, it's a lot to digest for now, therefor i still recommend to visit your local installer and tell him what to do and about the options you've read about.

 

[TeeLew]

OK, Gents, I've got a 2020 HPP with the Nav/base stereo. I'm a go-fast guy and don't know squat about this end of the car.

Lately the speakers have really been sounding like sh!t. What's the 'Easy Button' upgrade for a base car? It doesn't have to change the look of anything (I don't really care about a bigger screen). I'd just like to have it sound better. I don't care if it's really any louder. Also, I don't want to put a bunch of weight on the car.

Ideas?

 

[m3incorp]

The cheapest and easiest for your situation would be to change out the speakers and add a small subwoofer (doesn't add much weight)

OK, Gents, I've got a 2020 HPP with the Nav/base stereo. I'm a go-fast guy and don't know squat about this end of the car.

Lately the speakers have really been sounding like sh!t. What's the 'Easy Button' upgrade for a base car? It doesn't have to change the look of anything (I don't really care about a bigger screen). I'd just like to have it sound better. I don't care if it's really any louder. Also, I don't want to put a bunch of weight on the car.

Ideas?

 

[tekneecal]

OK, Gents, I've got a 2020 HPP with the Nav/base stereo. I'm a go-fast guy and don't know squat about this end of the car.

Lately the speakers have really been sounding like sh!t. What's the 'Easy Button' upgrade for a base car? It doesn't have to change the look of anything (I don't really care about a bigger screen). I'd just like to have it sound better. I don't care if it's really any louder. Also, I don't want to put a bunch of weight on the car.

Ideas?

This looks “easy” enough. There are other enclosures but I like the clean look of this one.
https://store.audiodesignscg.com/product/2015-2019-mustang-subwoofer-box/

 

[Evolvd]

Just changing the speakers won’t do much for you as they’re still being fed garbage signal by the stock amp. It’s like putting lipstick on a pig but you could add a reasonably priced amp to drive them. Cheapest option is a pair of 6.5” component speakers with a 1” tweeter for the doors and a 6.5 coax for the rear.

 

[TeeLew]

Same as always, it's all the spices in the soup, huh? It's not just one part that makes it good.

Thanks for the ideas and advice.

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