The drivers kick panel above and forward of the hood pull should have plenty of space since you don’t have a stock amplifier there.
Thank you for the suggestion. I hadn't pulled the driver side off yet, due to having to tackle removing the hood release handle. If there's that much room up there, worst case, I could mount both crossovers on that side, and just route the passenger side tweeter wire all the way across under the dash. There didn't seem to be much room on the passenger side with the fuse box at the front.
The hood release comes off pretty easy and then you can pull that panel easily as well. I ran my tweeter wires under the dash and then fished it behind the center section against the firewall using an extended wire shirt hanger.
Yeah. I read that there's a cap you have to remove with push tabs inside it. Haven't tried to tackle it yet. I decided to attempt mounting my crossovers behind the dash. I used doubled-up long plastic ties to secure them. They are installed but it may have been a mistake. They are too thick for the scosche module to sit flat, so the head unit above it barely fits. I had to yank on the wires from the bottom as I pushed the head unit back in order to make room. I still have to wire the crossovers, and will eventually run additional wires (remote and rca's for a sub amp). I doubt I'll have enough room then.
All is not lost. I think you've got some issues here that can be dealt with.About ready to just give up on it, or possibly even sell the car. Spent most of the day wiring up one side. Connected the crossovers, running tweeter wires up the A-Pillars, basically using the crossover as an intermediate between the head unit amp. I ran the woofer connection out of the crossover to the factory door speaker wiring, and ran a new tweeter wire up from the crossovers to a-pillar for the new component tweeters. I mounted them using thin butyl rubber "rope" that the tweeters came with and the front sleeve from the surface mounts. I have not upgraded the mids from the component set yet. I'm still on the powerbass mids I had replaced before. Sound is about the same, and I'd argue the tweeters even sound a bit worse.
So I'm left to blame either the stock wiring, the door design (midrange harshness), and/or the position of the tweeter further back with an obstructive grille in front of it. Put your hand in front of a tweeter playing loudly in open air. It will sound extremely harsh because the sound is being deflected.
I have some fast rings I will add when I upgrade the door speakers (in front and behind). I'll be finding a spare set of A-Pillar covers at a junk yard so I can dremel things out and flush mount the tweeters without the factory grilles. If there's no improvement from any of that, i'm basically throwing in the towel.
I mentioned it earlier in the thread but I will summarize for you. It's a 2-way component set. I have a 2016 base model v6. It has no external amp. The ACM (CD Player) is the factory amp. I upgraded to the Scosche Dash kit and a Kenwood Excelon DDX-396, which is the current amp.
Ok. I was thinking you had the 9 speaker system because you keep mentioning the word "mids" but you are actually referring to the mid-bass 6.5" drivers. So Kenwood headunit driving a 2-way cross-over and the cross-over wired to the respective P67CB component speakers. Nothing obviously wrong with that. Having to scoop out the entire midrange on the EQ is odd though. I assume by this point you have made sure the polarity of all the drivers is correct. Have you tried the -3db tweeter setting? Having the tweeter recessed into a cavity like that can horn-load the tweeter. Imagine the sound produced when you speak into a carboard toilet paper roll. It will amplify certain frequencies. Get the tweeter out of the pit and mount it like this:
That's exactly what I was thinking. I noticed if I test the tweeters at home, if my hand, or even a piece of speaker wire gets in front of the tweeter, it sounds harsh. I would have flush mounted if the Sound Ordnance tweeters would have fit. They have a threaded ring on the flush mount cup. It is too big to fit inside the opening. I had to use the front part of the surface mounts to install them with butyl rope. I was thinking of getting a pair of decently affordable separate tweeters (infinity, polk db1001) which I know will fit (from forum posts), and just using them with my existing crossovers. I have ancient pairs of Lanzar Titanium, and Silk dome tweeters, and an old pair of elemental designs tweeters from the edi6000s components. All of those would have fit inside the A-pillar opening if I dremeled out the factory tweeter mount. They aren't threaded though, so I'd have to fabricate something to hold them in place. What model are your Hertz (Dieci), and how much work was it to get them flush mounted?Ok. I was thinking you had the 9 speaker system because you keep mentioning the word "mids" but you are actually referring to the mid-bass 6.5" drivers. So Kenwood headunit driving a 2-way cross-over and the cross-over wired to the respective P67CB component speakers. Nothing obviously wrong with that. Having to scoop out the entire midrange on the EQ is odd though. I assume by this point you have made sure the polarity of all the drivers is correct. Have you tried the -3db tweeter setting? Having the tweeter recessed into a cavity like that can horn-load the tweeter. Imagine the sound produced when you speak into a carboard toilet paper roll. It will amplify certain frequencies. Get the tweeter out of the pit and mount it like this:
If the harshness persists after moving the tweeter out, it may just be the characteristics of the speakers you bought.
The factory, Powerbass, and now the Sound Ordnance, all share a similar harshness, so I'd bet it's the "recessed" position of the tweeter.
You may have convinced me. I may eventually bite the bullet and just Install an additional amp + dsp. Already purchased one for a subwoofer. I'd really like to keep the rear deck speakers for rear fill. I'm not sure how I'd do that without still being forced to go through the front crossovers. It appears there are 6-channel amps, so I may look into that.