Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[DeepImpactS550]

If you want rearfill you need a DSP that is capable of doing differential rearfill, means Helix or Mosconi and probably larger amounts of $ (way more expensive in the US than in Germany afaik).

Wow, surprised this thread has been silent since my last post. Constant experimentation with the 13-band EQ on my aftermarket head unit has made the system palatable, but the highs, and to some extent the mids, are still way too harsh in my opinion.
So I bit the bullet, and picked up a JBL DSP4086 DSP AMP combo. It will do 40 x 8, which should be plenty considering that 40 watts will go to the component mids and tweeters separately (80 watts per side). I will be using coaxials on the rear deck, and likely rolling off their high end slightly via the crossover. I'm not sure if it has differential rear fill, but it does have "time delay", which i'm assuming is time alignment. It connects to a PC/Laptop via USB for adjustments. This will provide a DSP and active crossovers, with a 31-band parametric EQ. I have a USB PC XLR interface and a pair of RTA mics I can use to get interior measurements.
I already had a SKAR RP-800.1D, (not installed yet) which I can connect to the final 2 channels from the DSP amp via speaker level to RCA adapters (included with DSP amp). I chose an Infinity Kappa 800W 8" sub, and a GP Audio Tru Spec vented box from SonicElectronix.
As soon as I can find a good deal on a spare pair of used A-Pillar covers, I'll be hacking them up (opening up the hole) so I can flush mount my tweeters.
I'm hoping the combination of all this, and a lot of tuning, will get my system where I want it.

EDIT: I just could not get the bass sounding right by using direct speaker wire to RCA adapters. It was either far too boomy, or not musical enough. Everything I've read says that doing it this way is a big no-no, that an LOC is required. I'm guessing it's because of the high resistance in actual RCA cables connected to a head unit, (preamp) so I decided to buy a poor man's Epicenter Micro (Hifonics BXIPRO3.0) for $50 to experiment with. I will be using the sub outs from the DSP amp into the high-level inputs on the Hifonics. It doubles as both a Line Out Converter and a Bass Restoration device. Not sure how well it will work if I end up also needing to EQ the bass on my DSP, but we will see. Worst case it's still cheaper than an LC2i even if I never use the bass restoration functionality, and it has the same multi-function (effect + sub level) bass knob as the epicenter included.

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[Benjamin Hundred]

Hey, I have a 2018 Premium, I added the Shaker sub as I had the factory wiring already in place and added the Shaker Pro Amp. I recently did an entire Shelby interior swap and added in all the B&O speakers, though the problems I’m having are
1. The B&O amp appears to have a different connector than the Shaker Pro amp, is there a way to make it work?
2. My biggest issue is the sub connectors are different. Any recommendations on making the B&O sub connect to the Shaker connector? Custom wiring job a big deal? I’m new to wiring.
The green connector is the B&O, the connector running out the carpet is the shaker connector.

 

[DeepImpactS550]

Hey, I have a 2018 Premium, I added the Shaker sub as I had the factory wiring already in place and added the Shaker Pro Amp. I recently did an entire Shelby interior swap and added in all the B&O speakers, though the problems I’m having are
1. The B&O amp appears to have a different connector than the Shaker Pro amp, is there a way to make it work?
2. My biggest issue is the sub connectors are different. Any recommendations on making the B&O sub connect to the Shaker connector? Custom wiring job a big deal? I’m new to wiring.
The green connector is the B&O, the connector running out the carpet is the shaker connector.

You are probably going to have to splice into your factory wiring to make it work, unless you can find some kind of factory amp integration adapter which will give you bare wires. If you could find a vehicle that originally had the B&O and cut off the harness further back it may make it easier. I see common color wires on the B&O. Black and Yellow for ground/positive, maybe grey and green for speaker connections? You could check the pins and see where you have 2 or 4 ohms resistance to figure out which ones go to the sub, and go from there.

See if you can find a Ford Schematic for the shaker wiring which will tell you what you need to splice on the vehicle end. Not an expert on any of this. Just making suggestions.

 

[Fishels]

I don’t understand how the 401A package has 12 speakers. I’m counting and getting around ten altogether what am I missing? Does the Sub count as more than 1?

Anyway guys I have had a regular premium 2015 that I got in the past few weeks and I’m in love with it. Until today the drivers side speaker 6.5 is rattling or making some sort of annoying racket at even 30-35 percent volume.

Please tell me there is a chance of a not so tough fix for this? I have no mechanical ability so I’m wondering what my options are. Is a DIY fix pretty easy or is a shop the way to go? I understand it may not be the speaker itself that is rattling but something around it. It’s stressing me as ownership has not been smooth sailing so far.

Thanks guys

 

[m3incorp]

The rear speakers are coaxial and count as two for each speaker.

I don’t understand how the 401A package has 12 speakers. I’m counting and getting around ten altogether what am I missing? Does the Sub count as more than 1?

Thanks guys

 

[Fishels]

The rear speakers are coaxial and count as two for each speaker.

Ahhh so tech 4 in total back there thanks.

Any idea on the Rattle? Every-time I get enjoying my car something new happens

 

[Evolvd]

I don’t understand how the 401A package has 12 speakers. I’m counting and getting around ten altogether what am I missing? Does the Sub count as more than 1?

Anyway guys I have had a regular premium 2015 that I got in the past few weeks and I’m in love with it. Until today the drivers side speaker 6.5 is rattling or making some sort of annoying racket at even 30-35 percent volume.

Please tell me there is a chance of a not so tough fix for this? I have no mechanical ability so I’m wondering what my options are. Is a DIY fix pretty easy or is a shop the way to go? I understand it may not be the speaker itself that is rattling but something around it. It’s stressing me as ownership has not been smooth sailing so far.

Thanks guys

Without hearing it we can only guess. Could be a blown speaker, could be something came loose in the door. The panel is easy to remove and there are YouTube videos of how to do it.

 

[Fishels]

Without hearing it we can only guess. Could be a blown speaker, could be something came loose in the door. The panel is easy to remove and there are YouTube videos of how to do it.

i think it’s a blown speaker. But will definitely check.
Is this actually an OEM replacement? Surely it can’t be this inexpensive and easy can it? Lol

https://ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-door-speaker-gr3z18808r

 

[Evolvd]

i think it’s a blown speaker. But will definitely check.
Is this actually an OEM replacement? Surely it can’t be this inexpensive and easy can it? Lol

https://ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-door-speaker-gr3z18808r

Looks like it but I’d confirm with your dealer parts counter. Yes they are cheap, and they sound cheap too.

 

[Fishels]

Looks like it but I’d confirm with your dealer parts counter. Yes they are cheap, and they sound cheap too.

Thanks will do. And by that comment you mean the OEM sounded cheap day 1 right? Lol

 

[Evolvd]

Thanks will do. And by that comment you mean the OEM sounded cheap day 1 right? Lol

Yes. I, like many others, have completely upgraded the stock system.

 

[Fishels]

Yes. I, like many others, have completely upgraded the stock system.

Appreciate it thx

 

[makamajwalker]

I'm late to the party here, but I want to thank O.P. as this thread has helped me immensely. I recently purchased a 2015 Mustang GT Premium. It came with equipment group 401a, so the 12 speaker Shaker Pro audio system. While I was test driving the car and inspecting it, I didn't think too much of the stereo. BIG mistake. After making the car mine, I realized that the stereo sounded like garbage. The sub was missing, which I knew before I bought it, but no matter as I planned on replacing it anyways. Still though, the rest of the speakers sounded so anemic and I couldn't believe they were all stock. Enter my wiring nightmare. Allow me to show you what some boob before did to this poor Mustang...

I thought surely I was not seeing this right. After removing the kick panel, I found the mess that was...

The only thing I can keep thinking about this is "HOW TF DOES SOMEOBY POSSIBLY DO THIS?!?!" I cannot for the life of me even pretend to imagine how some idiot thought that CUTTING the factory wiring harness and using butt connectors and line splicers was going to be their best method of using an aftermarket amp. I was absolutely floored.

After scouring the internet and finding that you pretty much cannot replace the plugs short of purchasing a complete used interior wire harness for the hefty price of ~350 USD, I decided I was going to fix it manually. And painstakingly I might add.

After cutting all that crap off the wiring harnesses, soldering and heat shrinking 6 inch lead wires to each individual pin on the connectors, I finally was left with this:

All neat and tidy, properly soldered, heat shrunk and zip tied in groups, my stereo sounds... well it still sucks, but that's because the boob also mangled the wiring harnesses at the speakers. My god, who let this person near vehicle wires?!?! Admittedly it is much better however despite the speaker harnesses being all cut up and spliced.

I have new speaker harnesses and baffles coming later today, then that plus my sub and amp will make this stereo what the Mustang deserves!

Anyways, thanks again O.P. and many others in this thread for all your extremely helpful pictures, diagrams and info!

Cheers!!!

 

[Evolvd]

I'm late to the party here, but I want to thank O.P. as this thread has helped me immensely. I recently purchased a 2015 Mustang GT Premium. It came with equipment group 401a, so the 12 speaker Shaker Pro audio system. While I was test driving the car and inspecting it, I didn't think too much of the stereo. BIG mistake. After making the car mine, I realized that the stereo sounded like garbage. The sub was missing, which I knew before I bought it, but no matter as I planned on replacing it anyways. Still though, the rest of the speakers sounded so anemic and I couldn't believe they were all stock. Enter my wiring nightmare. Allow me to show you what some boob before did to this poor Mustang...

I thought surely I was not seeing this right. After removing the kick panel, I found the mess that was...

The only thing I can keep thinking about this is "HOW TF DOES SOMEOBY POSSIBLY DO THIS?!?!" I cannot for the life of me even pretend to imagine how some idiot thought that CUTTING the factory wiring harness and using butt connectors and line splicers was going to be their best method of using an aftermarket amp. I was absolutely floored.

After scouring the internet and finding that you pretty much cannot replace the plugs short of purchasing a complete used interior wire harness for the hefty price of ~350 USD, I decided I was going to fix it manually. And painstakingly I might add.

After cutting all that crap off the wiring harnesses, soldering and heat shrinking 6 inch lead wires to each individual pin on the connectors, I finally was left with this:

All neat and tidy, properly soldered, heat shrunk and zip tied in groups, my stereo sounds... well it still sucks, but that's because the boob also mangled the wiring harnesses at the speakers. My god, who let this person near vehicle wires?!?! Admittedly it is much better however despite the speaker harnesses being all cut up and spliced.

I have new speaker harnesses and baffles coming later today, then that plus my sub and amp will make this stereo what the Mustang deserves!

Anyways, thanks again O.P. and many others in this thread for all your extremely helpful pictures, diagrams and info!

Cheers!!!

Wow, that is just…bless their heart. Since you have the Shaker system are you planning to use the PAC Audio Amp Pro for integration?

 

[makamajwalker]

Wow, that is just…bless their heart. Since you have the Shaker system are you planning to use the PAC Audio Amp Pro for integration?

I wanted to use something like that, but I was under the impression that it didn't fit in our Mustangs. At least Crutchfield would have me believe. They offer Rockford Fosgate DSR1 as an option, and pricing wise they are about the same. I definitely want to replace to factory multi channel amp at some point. For my sub that I'm installing, I have a clipped male wiring harness from a skater pro sub that I'm going to t-splice (I know I was knocking the other guy for doing that, but this won't involve any splicing or cutting I the factory harnesses) and use a line output converter.

With 101 pages of replies, I admittedly didn't read every post but if the PAC Pro amp works for our cars, I wouldn't be against checking it out!

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