Steeds clutch spring

[Schwerin]

I think I depressed the peddle, got the tips of the vicegrips between the coils, left the peddle up while putting pressure on vicegrips(or they push out) and when coils closed I was able to lock the vgrips
Had to pre set vgrips for gap before starting process. Then I was able to wiggle spring out.

Easiest way to get the new one in is to press the spring on a bench, with grips or in a vice, then use small zip ties to hold it compressed. Put it in place, then cut the zip ties. That way you don't have to line it up, hold the clutch and squeeze the spring all at once while semi-upside down.

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[TXAG96]

Just wanted to bump this to the top and big props to Steeda for getting the spring feel right.
My soon to be 50 year old knee thanks you greatly.
That factory spring could double as a F150 Front coil.....

 

[Elp_jc]

Well, the Steeda spring actually requires MORE effort, since the spring is an assist spring, meaning the stronger it is, the more it helps when depressing the clutch pedal. The Steeda springs is basically just to assure the pedal is retracted all the way to the top of its travel; it provides hardly any assist. The stock one provides quite a bit more assist. You're the first one I read about who didn't notice the extra effort with the Steeda spring .

 

[TXAG96]

Well, the Steeda spring actually requires MORE effort, since the spring is an assist spring, meaning the stronger it is, the more it helps when depressing the clutch pedal. The Steeda springs is basically just to assure the pedal is retracted all the way to the top of its travel; it provides hardly any assist. The stock one provides quite a bit more assist. You're the first one I read about who didn't notice the extra effort with the Steeda spring .

Stock spring = 185 lb/in
Steeda Spring =35 lb/in
Its actually an assist to return the pedal back to normal position, not to assist while depressing the pedal.
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-7022-s550-clutch-spring

 

[Bullitt0819]

Well, the Steeda spring actually requires MORE effort, since the spring is an assist spring, meaning the stronger it is, the more it helps when depressing the clutch pedal. The Steeda springs is basically just to assure the pedal is retracted all the way to the top of its travel; it provides hardly any assist. The stock one provides quite a bit more assist. You're the first one I read about who didn't notice the extra effort with the Steeda spring .

The Steeda spring feels much lighter to me. In 12K miles or so, I could never get the 'feel' of the clutch with the stock spring, made some awful shifts and even stalled my engine a few times. I don't recall having such problems with my '08 Bullitt--with Tremec 3560 IIRC--which I traded in at 112K miles, with original clutch and brakes. I'm not a rookie; I've been driving manuals for over 51 years, starting with a no-synchros Model A I drove in high school and junior college and currently own two old British sports cars and a '46 Chevy 2-ton (3 on the floor and no synchros on any of them; I'm still working on 'crunch-free' shifts in that one).

I heard/read somewhere that Ford used the stronger spring to help alleviate an issue with the Getrag gearbox; something about making sure the clutch was completely disengaged when not shifting, but as far as I can tell the Steeda spring returns the pedal to its upper stop.

 

[FreePenguin]

The Steeda spring feels much lighter to me. In 12K miles or so, I could never get the 'feel' of the clutch with the stock spring, made some awful shifts and even stalled my engine a few times. I don't recall having such problems with my '08 Bullitt--with Tremec 3560 IIRC--which I traded in at 112K miles, with original clutch and brakes. I'm not a rookie; I've been driving manuals for over 51 years, starting with a no-synchros Model A I drove in high school and junior college and currently own two old British sports cars and a '46 Chevy 2-ton (3 on the floor and no synchros on any of them; I'm still working on 'crunch-free' shifts in that one).

I heard/read somewhere that Ford used the stronger spring to help alleviate an issue with the Getrag gearbox; something about making sure the clutch was completely disengaged when not shifting, but as far as I can tell the Steeda spring returns the pedal to its upper stop.

And people like easy clutches. It appears majority enjoy the soft oem feel

 

[Elp_jc]

Its actually an assist to return the pedal back to normal position, not to assist while depressing the pedal.

That's incorrect. You need very little pressure to push pedal up, which is exactly what the Steeda spring basically does. Somebody measured the force required to push the clutch pedal from 0 to 100% with and without spring, and with the Steeda spring. Look for it on Youtube. The force needed with the stock spring was the least, as expected. The curve shape was similar in all 3 cases, for what I remember.

 

[ice445]

The main advantage of the Steeda spring is that it's linear. OEM isn't, and halfway through the decompression of the spring, it gets a lot stiffer which is extremely annoying because it occurs right before the bite point.

 

[PringleMD]

The main advantage of the Steeda spring is that it's linear. OEM isn't, and halfway through the decompression of the spring, it gets a lot stiffer which is extremely annoying because it occurs right before the bite point.

Agreed......

 

[Bullitt0819]

It appears the spring is BOTH an assist and a return spring. From Steeda:

"By negating your factory clutch assist spring you will notice chatter/NVH from your clutch pedal. Your clutch pedal will never fully return to stock position without any assist spring (emphasis mine), and over time your slave cylinder may begin leaking due to constant pressure on its seals from the clutch pedal not returning to the stock position."

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-7022-s550-clutch-spring

I'm still trying to wrap my head around how it can be both an assist and return spring; I don't believe I've ever seen a similar application.

 

[TXAG96]

It only assists the return stroke. Nothing else.
the effort to push the pedal is reduced only because its lighter than the OE spring.

 

[WD Pro]

Mine fitted easily with the tool shown and following (official) instructions i.e. no broken perch etc :

I watched some unofficial videos on YouTube and I'm not surprised with how rough some people were of why the perch can get broken.

I am a RHD car so perhaps that effects how easy access is / chance of breakage etc.

Difference in appearance between OE and Steeda springs are significant.

Oh yeah, don't drop the perch on the carpet as you might get grease on you carpet - don't ask me how I know ... lol

WD

 

[Elp_jc]

I'm still trying to wrap my head around how it can be both an assist and return spring

Simple geometry. Imagine a pendulum, where straight down is the middle of the clutch pedal travel, and the spring is hinged in line with that. Spring pressure wouldn't affect lateral pendulum travel in the middle, but as soon as you move it either way, the spring would start pushing (assisting) the pendulum. In our case, the assist is a lot more to overcome the clutch pressure plate than to push pedal against its stop, but you get the picture. If you still don't understand, just get your head under your pedals, push the clutch, and watch how the spring moves . Hope this helps.

 

[Bullitt0819]

Simple geometry. Imagine a pendulum, where straight down is the middle of the clutch pedal travel, and the spring is hinged in line with that. Spring pressure wouldn't affect lateral pendulum travel in the middle, but as soon as you move it either way, the spring would start pushing (assisting) the pendulum. In our case, the assist is a lot more to overcome the clutch pressure plate than to push pedal against its stop, but you get the picture. If you still don't understand, just get your head under your pedals, push the clutch, and watch how the spring moves . Hope this helps.

I'll have a look. Thanks.

 

[Vlad Soare]

The spring sits on its perch in a compressed state. It has a tendency to extend. When the pedal is at rest, the spring is oriented somewhat upwards, which makes it push the pedal upwards. Thus it keeps the pedal from resting on the master cylinder.
The pedal's trajectory is circular. As you depress it, it pivots on its mounting point, describing an arc. The spring, being mounted directly on the pedal, will rotate as well. At some point during this rotational movement the spring will start being oriented more and more downwards. So its tendency to extend will now assist you in pushing the pedal further down.

Frankly, I find it pretty neat. I know that people hate it, so saying I like it on these forums is probably akin to swearing in church, but I can't help admiring a piece of neat engineering when I see it. It's attractively simple and effective.

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