Sound tube delete

[Freedom]

Or you can plug it from the inside. The hole resides right behind the gas pedal.

Interesting. How big is the opening from the inside compared to the outside?
If its a much bigger difference itll be hard to use a plug designed for the outside in.

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[pgonza2723]

The plug from the JLT kit fit right in on mine.

 

[jdoug]

One more vote for the "just yank it out" method. It's a lot easier and doesn't really mangle the end of the sound tube that much.

 

[ryant601]

Ordered the kit from cooltech today, will attempt this when it comes. I do have long skinny arms so maybe I'll be able to do this the "clean" way.

 

[Kennocha]

I honestly found front of the car on ramps and extensions easier than trying from the top.

 

[69mach1-395]

Actually, they DO serve a purpose:

A common misconception among many auto enthusiasts and hot-rodders is that the air intake resonator is there for the sole purpose of muffling the sound of the engine on an older car. While dampening the sound of the engine is one of the purposes of the air intake resonator, it is not the primary purpose. The primary purpose of the air intake resonator is to inhibit pressure wave harmonics, which causes air pressure in the engine and restricts the amount of airflow through the RPM spectrum. In effect, the air intake resonator, via its expansion chamber, slows down the air emerging from the engine. This reduces the engine intake noise and increases the amount of horsepower available.

From another source:

To the average hot-rodder, intake resonators go on the same pile as smog pumps, catalytic converters, exhaust gas recirculation valves and charcoal canisters. But imagine which pile the resonator would end up in if that same customizer knew it was more than a plastic muffler -- it's actually an important part of the engine's intake system, and may add a fairly significant amount of horsepower.

Design and Construction
The resonator itself couldn't be simpler in design; it's basically just an expansion chamber or wide spot in the otherwise-smooth intake pipe. It may or may not contain some kind of baffle or plate, depending upon the design and the intent of the designers. Resonators come in two types: In-line resonators are open chambers that sit in the intake tube, while side-branch resonators are chambers that sit next to the tube and are connected to it via a small duct or channel.

The Common Misconception
Most hot-rodders and car enthusiasts think of intake resonators as simple mufflers in the intake tube, devices designed to siphon all the awesomeness out of a car's sound track to appease soccer moms and senior citizens. That makes it a prime candidate for the "chuck-it" school of auto modification. After all, it's basically just a plastic tumor growing off of a tube that should by definition be as smooth and blemish free as possible. While sound control is indeed part of the resonator's job, the sound control itself is really more of a side effect of its primary purpose.

Pressure Wave Harmonics
Air flowing into your cylinder head's intake port doesn't move in a straight line while the valve is open, then politely stop in its tracks to await another valve opening. When the valve closes, the moving column of air slams into it, then compresses and bounces back like a spring. This pressure wave travels backward at the speed of sound until the intake runner opens up or it hits something, and then it bounces back toward the cylinder. This is the "first harmonic." The pressure wave actually bounces back and forth two or three more times before the intake valve opens again.

Intake Tube Pulses
The resonator in your intake is technically known as a Helmholz resonator, an acoustic device used to control pressure wave harmonics. Air bouncing back out of your engine and into the intake tube doesn't do it in a single pulse the way it would in a single intake runner; the multiple pistons put out pressure waves at their own intervals, and some of those are going to try to bounce back in while others are going out. The result is a "clog" or high pressure area in your intake tube that ultimately limits airflow through almost the entire rpm spectrum.

The Resonator
Adding an expansion chamber to the intake tube forces air coming back out of the engine to slow down to fill the cavity, thus expending a great deal of its energy and slowing the pressure wave reversion. This slowdown allows fresh air to flow toward the engine without fighting pressure reversion waves the entire way, thus aiding in cylinder filling. Since these pressure waves are essentially sound, giving them a place to expend their energy before exiting the air filter box ends up dampening the intake noise and quieting the engine. Thus, the resonator helps to make the engine paradoxically quieter and more powerful.

I think the font size was too large for people to read this :lol:

 

[shelbywannabe]

I think the font size was too large for people to read this :lol:

So if you read the first part of this then you are losing available horsepower by removing the sound tube ? :eyebulge:

 

[BmacIL]

So if you read the first part of this then you are losing available horsepower by removing the sound tube ? :eyebulge:

Definitely not, no. Removing the resonating chambers in the intake tube without a increase in tube volume can reduce power, however. Mishimoto found this out when they were developing their silicone tube.

 

[LG23]

Easier to go from underneath. It's a 5 minute job.

Do you need to move anything from underneath? Might just put the front on stands and go at it. Useless thing taking up space under the hood.

 

[new302]

No. You don't even need to put it on stands.

 

[Kennocha]

No. You don't even need to put it on stands.

I dunno, no way I would fit under the car enough to go at it. I atleast had to use ramps.

 

[Mr. Motion]

One more vote for the "just yank it out" method. It's a lot easier and doesn't really mangle the end of the sound tube that much.

After 15 minutes of trying to get at that !@#$% sound tube nut from both underneath the vehicle and on top, I finally went to "Plan B" that many in this forum suggested, i.e., just yank it out. I found that if you take a screw driver and pop off the crimped clamp that holds the front section of the tube that looks like a space capsule, the half that's left is much easier to manipulate. A quick tug and a twist and presto - it was off! Took less than a minute.

 

[Mr. Motion]

I yanked mine out as well. My arms couldn't fit in the space between the STB and FW to install the plug for the hole in the FW so took a suggestion from someone in the forum and took off the gas pedal and installed the plug from the inside. 10 minute job and made a pretty decent difference on the interior for me.

Why didn't you just remove the bolts on the STB and swing it out of the way? That's what I did and there was plenty of room to reach down to the hole. Took a little silicone grease and lubricated the plug so it slipped right in!

 

[ryant601]

Just to clarify, the yanking out method means you don't have to do anything with the firewall right? Just cap the intake and you're good?

 

[pgonza2723]

Regardless of the method used, removing the sound tube means having to plug the hole at he firewall. You can do it from the engine bay side or from inside the car behind the gas pedal.

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