Sound System Upgrade for Base Model 2016 GT

[CricketSP]

I've never heard of Rockville subs. How do they rate compared to JL Audio, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, etc?

Sounds good to me, not sure what to compare it too, I have not messed with after market audio components in over 25 years. I mostly listen to hard rock from the 80's and the kick drum feels like it's right behind my seat, I have to set the gain to 35% otherwise it's too over powering, but it sounds good to me, I keep the radio volume ~ 20% max. All I can say is the difference with and without this sub is night and day.

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[MegaG]

OP, did you end up making a decision or are you still mulling it over?

 

[Asvy]

OP, did you end up making a decision or are you still mulling it over?

You are not gonna believe me but I have switched my mind a thousand times. I have been learning a lot about car audio. I learn something new every day. I have called many specialists, researched all across forums, and done a lot of youtube watching.
My List is as followed:
Speakers: Morel Tempo Ultra 602 6-1/2" Component Speaker System
Subwoofer: ADIRE Brahma 12'
AMP for Speaker: Arc Audio X2 600.4 Multi-Channel Amplifier (Four-Channels)
AMP for Sub: Arc Audio X2 1100.1 Mono-Block Amplifier (Single Channel)
Line Output Converters:
AudioControl LC7i
AudioControl LC2i PRO
(edit you only need one or the other haha, I just had two in my cart. It depends how many channels you have in your system)

(2nd edit you might be able to work around buying these line converters with the use of forescan)

I will be getting a custom enclosed sub box and custom tuning of my whole audio system with a plug in my area.

Let me know what you guys think.

 

[m3incorp]

You have chosen some great products. I love the sound of the Morel Temp Ultra 602.

I personally haven't tried the Adire Brahma or the Arc Audio amps but have done research on them and they look to be great quality and also great choices.

Either the LC7i or the LC2i Pro should work, depending on what you plan to do with the front stage.

You are going to have a really nice system when it is done.

You are not gonna believe me but I have switched my mind a thousand times. I have been learning a lot about car audio. I learn something new every day. I have called many specialists, researched all across forums, and done a lot of youtube watching.
My List is as followed:
Speakers: Morel Tempo Ultra 602 6-1/2" Component Speaker System
Subwoofer: ADIRE Brahma 12'
AMP for Speaker: Arc Audio X2 600.4 Multi-Channel Amplifier (Four-Channels)
AMP for Sub: Arc Audio X2 1100.1 Mono-Block Amplifier (Single Channel)
Line Output Converters:
AudioControl LC7i
AudioControl LC2i PRO

I will be getting a custom enclosed sub box and custom tuning of my whole audio system with a plug in my area.

Let me know what you guys think.

 

[StangTime]

Is this for a base GT with the 4" screen? I think you can program the head unit for variable line-out with Forscan (someone correct me if I'm wrong. I heard it was possible) to lower the background amplifier noise (cleaner signal to the amps). Even if you can't re-program the head unit, the ARC Audio amps have line-level inputs. In either case, you don't even need the LC7's at all. Flatten the EQ and remove the rear bass roll-off with one code in Forscan and now it's an even nicer system and costs less. Your welcome.

 

[CricketSP]

You are not gonna believe me but I have switched my mind a thousand times. I have been learning a lot about car audio. I learn something new every day. I have called many specialists, researched all across forums, and done a lot of youtube watching.
My List is as followed:
Speakers: Morel Tempo Ultra 602 6-1/2" Component Speaker System
Subwoofer: ADIRE Brahma 12'
AMP for Speaker: Arc Audio X2 600.4 Multi-Channel Amplifier (Four-Channels)
AMP for Sub: Arc Audio X2 1100.1 Mono-Block Amplifier (Single Channel)
Line Output Converters:
AudioControl LC7i
AudioControl LC2i PRO

I will be getting a custom enclosed sub box and custom tuning of my whole audio system with a plug in my area.

Let me know what you guys think.

Damn you! Now you have me thinking about spending more money. Do you have an idea what this will all cost

 

[Asvy]

Is this for a base GT with the 4" screen? I think you can program the head unit for variable line-out with Forscan (someone correct me if I'm wrong. I heard it was possible) to lower the background amplifier noise (cleaner signal to the amps). Even if you can't re-program the head unit, the ARC Audio amps have line-level inputs. In either case, you don't even need the LC7's at all. Flatten the EQ and remove the rear bass roll-off with one code in Forscan and now it's an even nicer system and costs less. Your welcome.

The only reason, I added them was because a technician at Crutchfield recommended them to me, he said they are much cleaner than if I were to mess with the head unit, but of course, their job is to sell products.

I believe your statements are true, I have heard of a lot of people using forescan. I do have the BASE GT with a 4" screen and look at you, I had no clue the ARC AMPS had live-level inputs. Im gonna have to look into that. Thank you that saves me a days' worth of Door Dashing , haha.

 

[Asvy]

Damn you! Now you have me thinking about spending more money. Do you have an idea what this will all cost

Cost of Products(excluding line converters b/c I don't think we actually need them):
$450 Subwoofer
$440 Speakers
$600 4-channel AMP
$660 Single Channel AMP
Costs around $2,150 (amazon saves you like 20bucks or something)

Cost of Sub Custom Enclosure: Varies $100-$200
Cost of Installation: Professional Installation is around 300-400 dollars or more.
Cost of Tuning: $100/hour.

A professional shop was charging me $750 for installation and tuning.

Howerver, a friend from my hometown knows someone and I'm gonna save myself hundreds of dollars. Its a perk of living in a small city Everyone knows each other, so plugs always come thru!

So total you are looking at around 3,000 dollars.

 

[StangTime]

The only reason, I added them was because a technician at Crutchfield recommended them to me, he said they are much cleaner than if I were to mess with the head unit, but of course, their job is to sell products.

I believe your statements are true, I have heard of a lot of people using forescan. I do have the BASE GT with a 4" screen and look at you, I had no clue the ARC AMPS had live-level inputs. Im gonna have to look into that. Thank you that saves me days' worth of Door Dashing , haha.

Crutchfield doesn't know the Mustang inside and out like we do here so I am not surprised they would try and sell the LC7 converters. It's likely their go to interface for all aftermarket amplifier hook-ups.

Here is the Forscan code to remove factory EQ processing. I would do this no matter what you decide to do system wise.

Bits to change in the ACM (Audio Control Module)
727-01-02 00xx - Disables Factory EQ Processing (change this code to 00)

 

[Asvy]

Crutchfield doesn't know the Mustang inside and out like we do here so I am not surprised they would try and sell the LC7 converters. It's likely their go to interface for all aftermarket amplifier hook-ups.

Here is the Forscan code to remove factory EQ processing. I would do this no matter what you decide to do system wise.

Bits to change in the ACM (Audio Control Module)
727-01-02 00xx - Disables Factory EQ Processing (change this code to 00)

Yes sir, and thank you very much!

Now this is completely off topic but have ever had an issue with your mustang leaking water through the rear windows panels of the car? I went to wash my car the other day, and water was leaking on the back passenger side of the headliner near the rear window.

Like this:

 

[MegaG]

Some thoughts,

I can relate to you changing your mind a thousand times, I resemble that remark on my current build

I like where you are going with the equipment with the exception of the LOC

Some installers will not make the Forscan change that is popular on this forum, could be why Crutchfield would have recommended the LOC especially if OP was being budget conscious. I doubt CF policy allows them to recommend people get into Forscan. There are aftermarket interfaces that when installed ends up making a Forscan change but it is done by the device, not anyone going into Forscan through laptop and the port (think liability)

I am confused as to what will be tuned if there is no DSP. The factory unit can provide good clean sound but it has no time alignment or adjustable EQ features and neither does the LOC. This is where the DSR1 can offer a lower cost DSP then most of the traditional stand alone units.

For the cost of your two amps, you can buy an amp with built in DSP and drive 3 channels (think 2.1 set-up) and forget the rear deck speakers or run the rear deck off the head unit while you run the front stage and sub off the DSP Amp or add a 5 channel DSP Amp (or 6 channel where 5 & 6 can be bridged) and drive all 6 speakers (4 channels) and the sub.

Also, is it necessary to do the whole system at once or are you willing to grow into it? Its important to really understand your goals and yourself, are you prone to getting sucked into a rabbit hole or wanting to come back later and make changes if you aren't happy?

There are plenty of people on the forum that will happily tell you what to do if that's what you prefer, some do and that's ok, or you can slow down, like its seems you did a little, and spend more time figuring things out.

Once common approach is to just add a subwoofer, make the Forscan changes (remove factory EQ and bass roll-off), and see how you like that, that has satisfied some and still leaves an upgrade path without throwing away too much in equipment if you decide to take the next step. Only real downside is once you remove the bass roll-off, if you turn up the volume too much you can blow the cheap factory speakers but even this can be cheaply mitigated by adding a capacitor (bass blocker) right before the speaker.

Checkout Audio Control's D Series Amp, they have a 4 and 6 channel one out and will have a 5 channel one available soon, Kicker has two DSP AMP that are more budget friendly, The Kenwood 6 channel DSP Amp is $100 off (last day at CF) but unfortunately out of stock, a lot of value for $399.

The AC 6 channel DSP AMP is less then your two amps put together, gives you a full DSP and will be easier to install since its a single amp, the only drawback is when you bridge channel 5/6 together your sub has to be 4 ohms. Their new 5 channel option is more like there mono amp in that the 5th channel will be 2 ohm stable and I believe pump out 500 watts versus the 400 bridged ones of the 6 channel model.

 

[OF5.0]

Some thoughts,

I can relate to you changing your mind a thousand times, I resemble that remark on my current build

I like where you are going with the equipment with the exception of the LOC

Some installers will not make the Forscan change that is popular on this forum, could be why Crutchfield would have recommended the LOC especially if OP was being budget conscious. I doubt CF policy allows them to recommend people get into Forscan. There are aftermarket interfaces that when installed ends up making a Forscan change but it is done by the device, not anyone going into Forscan through laptop and the port (think liability)

I am confused as to what will be tuned if there is no DSP. The factory unit can provide good clean sound but it has no time alignment or adjustable EQ features and neither does the LOC. This is where the DSR1 can offer a lower cost DSP then most of the traditional stand alone units.

For the cost of your two amps, you can buy an amp with built in DSP and drive 3 channels (think 2.1 set-up) and forget the rear deck speakers or run the rear deck off the head unit while you run the front stage and sub off the DSP Amp or add a 5 channel DSP Amp (or 6 channel where 5 & 6 can be bridged) and drive all 6 speakers (4 channels) and the sub.

Also, is it necessary to do the whole system at once or are you willing to grow into it? Its important to really understand your goals and yourself, are you prone to getting sucked into a rabbit hole or wanting to come back later and make changes if you aren't happy?

There are plenty of people on the forum that will happily tell you what to do if that's what you prefer, some do and that's ok, or you can slow down, like its seems you did a little, and spend more time figuring things out.

Once common approach is to just add a subwoofer, make the Forscan changes (remove factory EQ and bass roll-off), and see how you like that, that has satisfied some and still leaves an upgrade path without throwing away too much in equipment if you decide to take the next step. Only real downside is once you remove the bass roll-off, if you turn up the volume too much you can blow the cheap factory speakers but even this can be cheaply mitigated by adding a capacitor (bass blocker) right before the speaker.

Checkout Audio Control's D Series Amp, they have a 4 and 6 channel one out and will have a 5 channel one available soon, Kicker has two DSP AMP that are more budget friendly, The Kenwood 6 channel DSP Amp is $100 off (last day at CF) but unfortunately out of stock, a lot of value for $399.

The AC 6 channel DSP AMP is less then your two amps put together, gives you a full DSP and will be easier to install since its a single amp, the only drawback is when you bridge channel 5/6 together your sub has to be 4 ohms. Their new 5 channel option is more like there mono amp in that the 5th channel will be 2 ohm stable and I believe pump out 500 watts versus the 400 bridged ones of the 6 channel model.

To build off this, use either the DSR1 or iDatalink AR with the dFO2 harness. It fixes the EQ and bass roll off without getting into Forscan and a laptop. If you wait a few weeks, AudioControl’s AR adapter for the D-series amps and DSPs will finally be released. Signal integration would be easily solved with this combo without any wire cutting.

 

[m3incorp]

Anyway you look at it, upgrading the audio in these cars can get to be expensive compared to what we were used to a few years ago. Throw in DSP and tuning and that increases the expense even more. I bet no one ever thought they would pay an audio tuner $100 and hour.

 

[Asvy]

Some thoughts,

I can relate to you changing your mind a thousand times, I resemble that remark on my current build

I like where you are going with the equipment with the exception of the LOC

Some installers will not make the Forscan change that is popular on this forum, could be why Crutchfield would have recommended the LOC especially if OP was being budget conscious. I doubt CF policy allows them to recommend people get into Forscan. There are aftermarket interfaces that when installed ends up making a Forscan change but it is done by the device, not anyone going into Forscan through laptop and the port (think liability)

I am confused as to what will be tuned if there is no DSP. The factory unit can provide good clean sound but it has no time alignment or adjustable EQ features and neither does the LOC. This is where the DSR1 can offer a lower cost DSP then most of the traditional stand alone units.

For the cost of your two amps, you can buy an amp with built in DSP and drive 3 channels (think 2.1 set-up) and forget the rear deck speakers or run the rear deck off the head unit while you run the front stage and sub off the DSP Amp or add a 5 channel DSP Amp (or 6 channel where 5 & 6 can be bridged) and drive all 6 speakers (4 channels) and the sub.

Also, is it necessary to do the whole system at once or are you willing to grow into it? Its important to really understand your goals and yourself, are you prone to getting sucked into a rabbit hole or wanting to come back later and make changes if you aren't happy?

There are plenty of people on the forum that will happily tell you what to do if that's what you prefer, some do and that's ok, or you can slow down, like its seems you did a little, and spend more time figuring things out.

Once common approach is to just add a subwoofer, make the Forscan changes (remove factory EQ and bass roll-off), and see how you like that, that has satisfied some and still leaves an upgrade path without throwing away too much in equipment if you decide to take the next step. Only real downside is once you remove the bass roll-off, if you turn up the volume too much you can blow the cheap factory speakers but even this can be cheaply mitigated by adding a capacitor (bass blocker) right before the speaker.

Checkout Audio Control's D Series Amp, they have a 4 and 6 channel one out and will have a 5 channel one available soon, Kicker has two DSP AMP that are more budget friendly, The Kenwood 6 channel DSP Amp is $100 off (last day at CF) but unfortunately out of stock, a lot of value for $399.

The AC 6 channel DSP AMP is less then your two amps put together, gives you a full DSP and will be easier to install since its a single amp, the only drawback is when you bridge channel 5/6 together your sub has to be 4 ohms. Their new 5 channel option is more like there mono amp in that the 5th channel will be 2 ohm stable and I believe pump out 500 watts versus the 400 bridged ones of the 6 channel model.

Took me a bit to get to your post been busy all day, currently writing back at 2 am thanks for the input. To answer your question about why I am not buying a DSP. It took me a while to make this decision trust me, I was going crazy because I did not really know if I needed a DSP or not. I was going to buy a Helix.3 DSP and a director separately. I did a lot of research on the lookout for an DSP, and after extensive reading. The helix provided the best performance and tunability, although there is other DSP's out there with easier software to use, once you understand the software of the Helix then you can really play some magical sounds out of your system. Not only was this option a very expensive one but I found out that I don't really need the DSP.

A friend of a friend who will be tuning my whole car has a DSP, and fancy devices, and this whole software that tells him where exactly my car needs to be tuned at, I'm not very sure what the whole process is, he is the one who knows a lot about this audio tech stuff. He told me its gonna take him a couple of hours to tune my car. The only reason I would need a DSP is if I wanted to the tuning myself or to have the ability to change the tune of my system on the go with my director, but I don't really think I need that. Plus I don't really want to mess with the tuning of my car. Il is happy as long as I just get a solid tune for my whole system. I thought about just adding a subwoofer and an AMP and calling it a day.

Upgrading only to subs was my last decision, but that changed a couple of days ago. When I came across the morel speakers once again. I changed my mind and decided why not upgrade my base speakers as well. I heard a lot of good things about the morels so I'm hoping they are worth the hype.

I chose the AMP I chose because its perfect for the Brahmas. I am gonna get the subs with a dual ohm, and the amp gives me 1100 watts at 1ohm, which is the perfect wattage for my sub.

Yes, I do a lot of research before buying things because I hate being dissatisfied with my products. I try to get the best of equipment( that I can afford) that there is and yes I am fully aware that $1000 dollar setup can sound amazing and can be enough if installed correctly however I have always liked spending a few more benjamins to have a top-notch system.
Maybe it's mental, but I have never cheaped out on my mustang.

Another friend of mine actually told me to not spend that much money and that he could hook me up with a discount on some powerful subwoofers and speakers from the brand named "SUNDOWN" and I was actually going to go this route because it was wayyy cheaper. He told me he could build a much powerful system for way cheaper than what I was gonna spend with my current list, however after a few days. I went back with my gut and research and said f*ck it go with what you want. Even though he said that the system I was gonna get was top quality. My fear was the SQ of my system. I was afraid that going with the SUNDOWN setup, might be more for SPL than SQ.



Having said that I'm hoping to have this project done by the end of May.

 

[SAY WHAT]

I installed this in my Gt https://www.alpine-usa.com/product/ford-mustang-sound-system-psu-300mtg.

It was a noticeable improvement. I'm sure you can do better for $700 but it was plug and play, very to self install.

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