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Simple+Cheap Adjustable rear camber solution from Moog (K100411)

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shogun32

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Why not increase performance and gain the adjustment you want with adjustable camber arms?
$450 vs $66. I agree that replacing the camber arms at all for $400+ makes the part largely moot. Now if replacement arms (fixed length) were priced $75-100 each like they PROPERLY belong, then this kit also provides value.
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$450 vs $66. I agree that replacing the camber arms at all for $400+ makes the part largely moot. Now if replacement arms (fixed length) were priced $75-100 each like they PROPERLY belong, then this kit also provides value.
There are plenty of reasons why that may not be the most cost effective route, mainly, tires are expensive. Not even going to touch on performance gains with aftermarket adjustable control arms like our own.

Many people have made large amounts of money locking out factory eccentrics. They're sloppy and move easily. They are however cheap to manufacture, hence why OEM's use them. The cost of tires and an alignment for every bump you hit, seems to make locking the eccentrics and using an adjustable arm more cost effective.

Im not trying to sell you on my product or talk down on another companies product, just playing devils advocate for anyone looking into an eccentric adjustment system.
 

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While the initial price point is nice, why not upgrade the whole arm to something more dependable and easier adjusting while you're in there? You're already dealing with the inboard side on this cradle (the most difficult side to work on). Why not increase performance and gain the adjustment you want with adjustable camber arms?
Which arm is yours? I'm not a big fan of any of the adjustable arms I've seen, but maybe I haven't seen yours.
 
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If I were designing one I would use thru-bolts clamping 2 interlocking/ridged faces (think machinist mill clamping set) or a simplified square-form pitch. Granularity/resolution would be no finer than 2mm and maybe 3mm.
 
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That actually looks quite reasonable.

AAD Performance - how does the adjustment work ? Got a manual page explaining it somewhere ?
I have a post here https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/aad-performance-drag-packs-now-shipping.168712/ explaining all our components.

essentially we use a tongue and grove set up, where the end is allowed to slide in this grove. two bolts hold them together, one is purely clamping, the other goes through one of our stainless steel tabs. This locating tab allows us to set the length of the arm. All the tabs are the same size, the location of the bolt hole in the tab changes along the length of the tab. Once a tab is in place, the alignment will never change, unless you change tabs

Tab sheet.PNG

As you can see in this drawing, If you have anymore questions or confusion about this system, Dm me and we can chat. -Graham
 

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Out of curiosity, how much performance does aftermarket camber arm bring ?
Most of the increased performance comes from reducing deflection; the amount the knuckle moves in undesirable directions during loading/unloading. We reduce deflection with a more rigid control arm design (billet aluminum), 94A durometer inboard bushings, and our patented quiet and bind free spheriflex bearing on the outboard side.

Slightly off topic so ill link here where i discuss it a little more in depth, feel free to shoot me a dm or question here https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/aad-performance-drag-packs.168712/
 

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If I were designing one I would use thru-bolts clamping 2 interlocking/ridged faces (think machinist mill clamping set) or a simplified square-form pitch. Granularity/resolution would be no finer than 2mm and maybe 3mm.
We had tried that as an early prototype maybe 10 years ago. It turned out to be not very user friendly, especially in aluminum.

Also if you were to make your own like that, id suggest a 0.5mm resolution. It all varies with arm design, but we see about a 0.25degree change in camber for each mm of advance with the geometry in ours, but again, depends on arm geometry
 

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Many people have made large amounts of money locking out factory eccentrics. They're sloppy and move easily. They are however cheap to manufacture, hence why OEM's use them. The cost of tires and an alignment for every bump you hit, seems to make locking the eccentrics and using an adjustable arm more cost effective. Im not trying to sell you on my product or talk down on another companies product, just playing devils advocate for anyone looking into an eccentric adjustment system.
The factory bolt just uses clamping force on the bushing sleeve to hold it in place in the range of the factory slot. The Moog and Steeda design add the eccentric with to the factory slot design. Doesn't the eccentric adds to the repeatability of adjustment and reliability of a slot with no eccentric, comparing an eccentric bolt in a slot to bolt in a slot with no eccentric, correct?
 

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The factory bolt just uses clamping force on the bushing sleeve to hold it in place in the range of the factory slot. The Moog and Steeda design add the eccentric with to the factory slot design. Doesn't the eccentric adds to the repeatability of adjustment and reliability of a slot with no eccentric, comparing an eccentric bolt in a slot to bolt in a slot with no eccentric, correct?
All the eccentric does if provide a reference of a quantifiable location. A sloppy one at that. Most eccentrics will have “tick” marks on them so alignment techs can have a relation between turning the eccentric cam and degrees of camber change.
Both those designs rely on clamping force to keep the bolt from sliding in the slotted hole.
 

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I have a post here https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/aad-performance-drag-packs-now-shipping.168712/ explaining all our components.

essentially we use a tongue and grove set up, where the end is allowed to slide in this grove. two bolts hold them together, one is purely clamping, the other goes through one of our stainless steel tabs. This locating tab allows us to set the length of the arm. All the tabs are the same size, the location of the bolt hole in the tab changes along the length of the tab. Once a tab is in place, the alignment will never change, unless you change tabs

Tab sheet.PNG

As you can see in this drawing, If you have anymore questions or confusion about this system, Dm me and we can chat. -Graham
Thanks - so this is a "discrete" (non-continues) adjustment - you have to swap these tabs to adjust the camber ?

What's the range of adjustment (in degrees) between 9mm and -9mm tab ? And how do you an alignment procedure going given toe and camber are inter-dependent and you have to iterate if you want them perfectly set ?

How do you lock out (if at all) inboard mount to prevent sliding ?
 

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Thanks - so this is a "discrete" (non-continues) adjustment - you have to swap these tabs to adjust the camber ?

What's the range of adjustment (in degrees) between 9mm and -9mm tab ? And how do you an alignment procedure going given toe and camber are inter-dependent and you have to iterate if you want them perfectly set ?

How do you lock out (if at all) inboard mount to prevent sliding ?
Correct it’s a discrete “fixed” adjustable. You use the tabs to adjust

The tabs are available from -9mm to +9mm in .5mm increments.

camber adjustments will change toe, toe will not effect camber. Set camber. Adjust toe accordingly (we also have toe links available that adjust the same way)

Lock outs are included in every kit that requires them I.e camber and toe
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