Steeda's Adjustable Rear Camber Mount Installation

[wildcatgoal]

Got mine in last light. Fitment is excellent. I had to fight the damn wires and gas filler pipe in the way, too. What I realized you could do is dismount the wires (driver side) from their little holder doo-dads up high getting toward the center of the car, which made it easier to get them out of the way, then you had much more space. I had to disconnect the ABS sensor wire where it mounts to the frame rail, too.

I oriented the welded nut face toward the front of the car on both sides because that seems to be the easiest location to get to in order to adjust camber.

I will say, an 18mm deep well swivel socket (not the swivel attachment thing that looks like a driveshaft joint) will really make this job (and at-track adjustments) easy. I was able to borrow one from a guy who was at the shop. Without it, I would have used one of those bendy adapters that look like a driveshaft joint, but it would have been tight. This is definitely a job that can be done easier with the springs out and/or the IRS lowered, but if you use your noggin, it can be done by your usual garage mechanic. I would recommend, if you do a jackstand job, only jacking up the back of the car so you get that triangle of extra space (because the back is sticking up at an angle) for your big 1/2" 120 ft. lbs. torque wrench. I'll be at the alignment shop today and I look forward to what they think of the ability to adjust with these.

Did anyone notice... how freakin' ugly the stock camber arm is? I've never really looked at it... and now that I'm intimate with it, I'd rather have a better looking one. ;)

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[wildcatgoal]

Highly suggest folks get universal impact swivel adapters like these: https://smile.amazon.com/BSPUJ2PI-U...97&sr=8-6&keywords=impact+universal+joint+set

This type of swivel will not work efficiently, and quite frankly I don't trust a torque wrench through them. I just ordered the universals that I linked to above and hope they hold up to my occasional use.

The one I used was a Matco, I think, but this is an 18mm deep well swivel by itself: https://smile.amazon.com/Sunex-218u...1-22&keywords=sunex+1/2"+drive+universal+deep

 

[Jmeo]

Got mine in last light. Fitment is excellent. I had to fight the damn wires and gas filler pipe in the way, too. What I realized you could do is dismount the wires (driver side) from their little holder doo-dads up high getting toward the center of the car, which made it easier to get them out of the way, then you had much more space. I had to disconnect the ABS sensor wire where it mounts to the frame rail, too.

I oriented the welded nut face toward the front of the car on both sides because that seems to be the easiest location to get to in order to adjust camber.

I will say, an 18mm deep well swivel socket (not the swivel attachment thing that looks like a driveshaft joint) will really make this job (and at-track adjustments) easy. I was able to borrow one from a guy who was at the shop. Without it, I would have used one of those bendy adapters that look like a driveshaft joint, but it would have been tight. This is definitely a job that can be done easier with the springs out and/or the IRS lowered, but if you use your noggin, it can be done by your usual garage mechanic. I would recommend, if you do a jackstand job, only jacking up the back of the car so you get that triangle of extra space (because the back is sticking up at an angle) for your big 1/2" 120 ft. lbs. torque wrench. I'll be at the alignment shop today and I look forward to what they think of the ability to adjust with these.

Did anyone notice... how freakin' ugly the stock camber arm is? I've never really looked at it... and now that I'm intimate with it, I'd rather have a better looking one. ;)

I thought about this while installing these but I think I read somewhere this is not recommended. I'm not sure why but if this is a safe option [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] or [MENTION=7748]tj@steeda[/MENTION] please let us know.

 

[wildcatgoal]

This is exactly how my cam bolt is oriented... which equates to the welded one facing the front of the car and the lock nut facing the rear.

BTW, the video Steeda has shows a prototype unit. The welds/metal quality on the part you actually buy is a work of art.

 

[Jmeo]

This is exactly how my cam bolt is oriented... which equates to the welded one facing the front of the car and the lock nut facing the rear.

BTW, the video Steeda has shows a prototype unit. The welds/metal quality on the part you actually buy is a work of art.

Probably my confusion and I did see that in the video as well. I like this way WAY better and I will switch to it when I get my hands on the new upper links

 

[MtnBiker]

I went with the welded piece facing rear, lock nut facing forward (the way the OEM setup works). My alignment guy was able to get a torque wrench on there without too much trouble. No swivels required. Another data point.

 

[wildcatgoal]

I operate under the motto: "if it is remotely hard, I need a new tool."

That way I get new tools, fully justified.

 

[Jmeo]

Update: Original post updated to what I believe is the best way to do this install

I switched the orientation of the brackets to match the video and Wildcatgoal today. To be honest I only had the drivers side done when I wrote this post yesterday so I only had to redo that side lol.

The drives side probably took me 2-3 hours but this was also including all the figuring out and such. When I moved to the passenger side I kid you not I was done n 30 minutes!

Thanks for all your input guys

 

[SteedaTech]

Update: Original post updated to what I believe is the best way to do this install

I switched the orientation of the brackets to match the video and Wildcatgoal today. To be honest I only had the drivers side done when I wrote this post yesterday so I only had to redo that side lol.

The drives side probably took me 2-3 hours but this was also including all the figuring out and such. When I moved to the passenger side I kid you not I was done n 30 minutes!

Thanks for all your input guys

Yes,thank you everyone for your input!!

 

[wildcatgoal]

At my alignment shop of choice and they really like these things - makes it easier for them to get precise and adjust with the weight of the vehicle on the car. Great news!

 

[tj@steeda]

At my alignment shop of choice and they really like these things - makes it easier for them to get precise and adjust with the weight of the vehicle on the car. Great news!

The design team loves this type of feedback I'll pass it along!

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[MtnBiker]

At my alignment shop of choice and they really like these things - makes it easier for them to get precise and adjust with the weight of the vehicle on the car. Great news!

Had the same experience. Good solution if you follow the updated torque spec.

 

[4orceFed]

Thanks for taking the time to do a write up and post pics of your install, Jaime. Was talking to Dave about this today. Working on a tire setup for my Air Lift and was wondering if this kit AND the rear adjustable camber arms are NEEDED for proper set up. Will this kit suffice? I know there's an added benefit of the rear adjustable camber arms, but I'm on a budget.

 

[4orceFed]

Got mine in last light. Fitment is excellent. I had to fight the damn wires and gas filler pipe in the way, too. What I realized you could do is dismount the wires (driver side) from their little holder doo-dads up high getting toward the center of the car, which made it easier to get them out of the way, then you had much more space. I had to disconnect the ABS sensor wire where it mounts to the frame rail, too.

I oriented the welded nut face toward the front of the car on both sides because that seems to be the easiest location to get to in order to adjust camber.

I will say, an 18mm deep well swivel socket (not the swivel attachment thing that looks like a driveshaft joint) will really make this job (and at-track adjustments) easy. I was able to borrow one from a guy who was at the shop. Without it, I would have used one of those bendy adapters that look like a driveshaft joint, but it would have been tight. This is definitely a job that can be done easier with the springs out and/or the IRS lowered, but if you use your noggin, it can be done by your usual garage mechanic. I would recommend, if you do a jackstand job, only jacking up the back of the car so you get that triangle of extra space (because the back is sticking up at an angle) for your big 1/2" 120 ft. lbs. torque wrench. I'll be at the alignment shop today and I look forward to what they think of the ability to adjust with these.

Did anyone notice... how freakin' ugly the stock camber arm is? I've never really looked at it... and now that I'm intimate with it, I'd rather have a better looking one. ;)

You thinking adjustable rear camber arms or non-adjustable?

 

[wildcatgoal]

You don't need adjustable camber arms with this. The Steeda fixed arms give you better bushing/bearing (can't remember which) than stock. For an air setup, I'd be going for the adjustable arms just to be sure I can dump it. Haha.

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