Steeda's Adjustable Rear Camber Mount Installation

[gatornek]

- Yes, a lift will make it easier, but it can be done on jackstands.
- No, the subframe does not need to come out of the car. We have installed numerous kits without the need for this.
- Tools will be basic hand tools. Ratchet, torque wrench, sockets, and box end wrenches.
- We recommend the cam bolt feed from rear to front but it’s dealer’s choice for what you find easiest.
- The top bolt only requires a ratchet and socket with a box end wrench.
- We have torqued the arm a couple of different ways. It depends on how you ultimately install the cam bolt.
Steeda Tech

Thank you Steeda!

Let me preface this by saying, I'm an avid customer. I have your subframe alignment kit, irs bushings, braces, lowering springs, and other equipment. Needless to say, I am a fan. So thank you for chiming in.

On the top bolt. Again, I will reiterate: that after the camber arm is put back into place, there SEEMS to be no room to stick a wrench in there "from the front" like you do when you first start the thread, with the camber arm off. That's why I THINK, from what I read on this thread, people say you have to stick the wrench, to hold the nut, in THROUGH THE BACK, and the only way to do that is with a flexhead wrench because maybe the angle is bad with a regular straight boxed wrench?

So I've actually been trying to chase down an 18mm flexhead ratchet wrench and have been waffling on spending the $100 for the set (even though they seem to be great tools, and are probably worth it).

I think I'm set on torquing the cam bolt, if you can confirm whether or "regular" boxed cuts the mustard for the 18mm nut on the top bolt, or whether I will need either an "offset" boxed wrench, or a "flexhead", hat would be GREAT.

I have all the other tools you mention. This is the last piece of the puzzle before I get underneath. :-)

Thank you so much for the response.

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