SCCA CAM-C Thread

[WItoTX]

If the car is primarily meant for the track or recreation, I truly think this is the way to go. Start with a stripper model and change it all. I think where the Magneride shines is a 'performance' middle-ground, where you drive primarily on the street and then you like to do an Auto-X or track day a few times a year. Having spent way more than amount this personally, I'd say the max expenditure to make a Magneride better should be a DSC and 350R struts. The 350R rear dampers aren't really necessary if you keep the rear spring rates where I believe they should be. Anything past that and you should move to a proper coil-over. They do make a DSC controlled racing coil-over, but I'd go passive. At some point, you need to limit the variables. A good passive setup is, by far, the easiest way to get a good track car. It just won't ride nice on the street.

Thanks Tim, this is the expertise I am completely lacking in.

My understanding is, you can't run R front dampers and non-R dampers on the rear. Admittedly, this is just a massive assumption on my part based on the fact that DSC sells a non-R and R controller. I understand the valving in the R damper is much "tighter", meaning the R damper requires less electrical input to get similar shock resistance in the non-R damper. Heck, I might have gotten this from you on another thread, or earlier in this one.

I need to get my own bugs worked out so I can use the mag-ride as you describe. Stupid abs sensor/thrust washer/axle problem I am chasing. Have you been able to get your hands on the DSC coil over set up and play around with it yet? I am still considering the leap to traditional shocks, but the ride height sensor issues folks have makes me nervous.

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[TeeLew]

Thanks Tim, this is the expertise I am completely lacking in.

My understanding is, you can't run R front dampers and non-R dampers on the rear. Admittedly, this is just a massive assumption on my part based on the fact that DSC sells a non-R and R controller. I understand the valving in the R damper is much "tighter", meaning the R damper requires less electrical input to get similar shock resistance in the non-R damper. Heck, I might have gotten this from you on another thread, or earlier in this one.

You can and I do. The DSC Controllers aren't different, just the file in it when it's delivered. The Mag Dampers are super simple. It starts with an oil that gets thicker in a magnetic field. The dampers are basically a hole in the piston and magnet windings. The R has a stronger magnet, so it makes more force for a given current.

I've played with one car on the Tractives. They're nice pieces and I'm fairly certain they could be made to work well, but I don't like the base valving as they're delivered (which may just be *my* error), so I feel like I have to tune around a clunky valving. They're getting figured out, though.

 

[mavisky]

Well problem solved. Apparently the factory magneride calibration is just woefully inadequate at damping the Steeda Dual Rate springs when it's in comfort mode. Put the suspension into Sport or Race and the damping controls the unexpected movement at the rear just fine. Easy repairs are awesome, but I'll be looking even harder into the Steeda configured DSC magneride controller as I understand that their comfort is closer to sport, sport closer to race, and Race has been properly tuned to match the dual rate spring rates.

So problem not-so-solved. Took the car out in some rain the other day and it about tank slappered into a wall on me. Something definitely out with the rear end. 99.9% certain it's an issue with the camber moving with the Steeda camber brackets so ordered up a set of SPC camber arms. Everything else is rock solid and tight. I was getting some clunking over bumps too and I think the passenger rear was dynamically shifting camber/toe on me as I drove and as load shifted on the rear tires causing it to "rear steer" on me. In the dry it was masked by the massive amounts of grip the car has, in the wet when combined with the autocross toe settings it was a death trap and I had to limp it home at under the speed limit.

I don't think this is an inherent flaw with the design of the Steeda parts, but when I took it to get aligned the tech told me they did the best they could with the rear, but that the passenger rear was just spinning in place, so I think something was damaged during the alignment and rather than buy another of these hard to adjust camber brackets, the SPC arms will work better and be easier to adjust. OPMustang just announced a massive discount on them so took advantage of them for father's day.

 

[TeeLew]

That's not a part problem. That's a mechanic problem.

 

[mavisky]

That's not a part problem. That's a mechanic problem.

Agreed, but adjusting those parts was a pain in the ass so upgrading to adjustable arms rather than just re-ordering the same parts.

 

[RobZ71LM7]

I'm not on your guys' level, but I really love these AAD rear camber arms. They lockout and hold settings well and are super easy to adjust.

 

[WItoTX]

Agreed, but adjusting those parts was a pain in the ass so upgrading to adjustable arms rather than just re-ordering the same parts.

If it were me, I would throw a gopro under the car, and go for a ride. You may end up throwing parts at it if you don't know what is actually happening. I'd think you would see signs of movement if you camber arm is moving.

I know a thing or two about throwing parts at problems instead of just diagnosing it properly the first time LOL...it gets expensive fast.

Is the wheel bearing still good?
Did you look at the axle bolt, was that still tight?
Have you done toe links and vertical links?
How does your bushing look in your lower control arm? You may have to lift the car to see if it's torn.

And Rob, I have the AAD arms based on a recommendation from members on this thread. They are awesome. Just wish I could have got them in blue.

 

[mavisky]

Is the wheel bearing still good?
Did you look at the axle bolt, was that still tight?
Have you done toe links and vertical links?
How does your bushing look in your lower control arm? You may have to lift the car to see if it's torn.

Bearing is good
Axle bolt tight
Vertical Links are billet Steeda units and all tight.
Toenlinks are still stock but also tight
Lower control arm bushing checks out fine.

Passenger side camber bolt nut (a lock nut btw) was able to be tightened so 99% sure it just didn't get torqued all the way. Due to the design of that inner camber arm mount it can be really hard to get any meaningful force on it when the cradle is actually in the car which is why the factory setup uses that locking tab on the nut so you only have to put effort on the side you can actually see and access.

 

[Gearz]

That upper link inner bolt is such a pain to get to. I bought this wrench and that's its only job.
https://www.northerntool.com/produc...rive-flex-ratcheting-wrench-16mm-x-18mm-32299

Also, the last time I fought the rear camber settings I rigged up this clap-trap just to keep it from slipping when I loosened that bolt. I used the digital inclinometer from my Longacre camber gauge to tweak the adjustment.

I was getting the clunking noise and funky rear handling just like you described, right after I had the rear alignment done by a local shop that I used before and never had any trouble with. Thankfully I bring that wrench along to events so I checked and found that bolt was snug but not tight. The above picture was taken when I decided to just do it myself instead. I only took it to that shop because that camber setting is so difficult. They got it spot on, but I should have checked all of the bolts afterward. Never again.

Now that the bolts are all tight I no longer have active camber and the car has been friggn great!

 

[Dana Pants]

@Gearz i use a quick grip between the wall and the brake rotor for this job. Free hand is not a life worth living.

 

[WItoTX]

That upper link inner bolt is such a pain to get to. I bought this wrench and that's its only job.
https://www.northerntool.com/produc...rive-flex-ratcheting-wrench-16mm-x-18mm-32299

Also, the last time I fought the rear camber settings I rigged up this clap-trap just to keep it from slipping when I loosened that bolt. I used the digital inclinometer from my Longacre camber gauge to tweak the adjustment.

I was getting the clunking noise and funky rear handling just like you described, right after I had the rear alignment done by a local shop that I used before and never had any trouble with. Thankfully I bring that wrench along to events so I checked and found that bolt was snug but not tight. The above picture was taken when I decided to just do it myself instead. I only took it to that shop because that camber setting is so difficult. They got it spot on, but I should have checked all of the bolts afterward. Never again.

Now that the bolts are all tight I no longer have active camber and the car has been friggn great!

Just buy adjustable camber arms and you never have to do this again LOL

The drivers size is the worst. Almost 2 hours to do the drivers side on mine, 20 minutes to do the passenger side.

 

[mavisky]

That upper link inner bolt is such a pain to get to. I bought this wrench and that's its only job.
https://www.northerntool.com/produc...rive-flex-ratcheting-wrench-16mm-x-18mm-32299

Also, the last time I fought the rear camber settings I rigged up this clap-trap just to keep it from slipping when I loosened that bolt. I used the digital inclinometer from my Longacre camber gauge to tweak the adjustment.

I was getting the clunking noise and funky rear handling just like you described, right after I had the rear alignment done by a local shop that I used before and never had any trouble with. Thankfully I bring that wrench along to events so I checked and found that bolt was snug but not tight. The above picture was taken when I decided to just do it myself instead. I only took it to that shop because that camber setting is so difficult. They got it spot on, but I should have checked all of the bolts afterward. Never again.

Now that the bolts are all tight I no longer have active camber and the car has been friggn great!

That seems like the perfect tool. Putting that on my "tools to get" list.

Also glad to hear the confirmation of my experience.

 

[Gearz]

Just buy adjustable camber arms and you never have to do this again LOL

The drivers size is the worst. Almost 2 hours to do the drivers side on mine, 20 minutes to do the passenger side.

Buddy I would get the AAD arms and never look back but I'm in FS (sorry for invading the CAMC thread) so I'm stuck with Ford's "better idea".

The flex head ratcheting wrench makes it much easier to get to, even on the drivers side. The real PITA for me is making the adjustment, put the wheels back on, lower it and check the toe and thrust angles, remove wheel, adjust and repeat. So much easier on an alignment rack - when they do it properly.

 

[mavisky]

Just buy adjustable camber arms and you never have to do this again LOL

The drivers size is the worst. Almost 2 hours to do the drivers side on mine, 20 minutes to do the passenger side.

Exactly why those brackets are going back to stock and going with the SPC arms.

 

[kz]

@mavisky - don't forget to buy a thin wrench for the outboard adjustment on these SPC arms - I can almost guarantee that the alignment place you're using doesn't have one that fits.
SPC sells one, I bought one off Amazon, Stanley Proto I think.

Edit : Proto Stanley J3548 Thin Pattern Service Wrench 1-1/2" https://a.co/d/1vDUluL

(Bending or cutting handle in half of this wrench would make things easier)

Also - if someone wants brand new, unused AAD camber arms (only with some scratches from my attempt to use them) for lets say $240 OBO, let me know. They're in my basement and I don't think I'll use them.
(Offer only for someone autocrossing).

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