Rpg racing engines

[robmustang201528]

Most were 100% stock, one had drop in rods, pistons, with ARP head studs. I think the stage 2 RPG with the upgraded head studs, good head gaskets, and balanced rotating assembly will support 900hp, but shit can happen.

Exactly I worried about the shit lol. Inlike that RPG has a warranty for a year or 12,000,miles

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[andrewtac]

Yeah I have a gen 2 block. I really didn't want to have my car down for months while I wait for my motor to get built so I figured I'd buy a new block and maybe put sleeves into my old motor wayyyyy down the line lol. I was just trying to figure out which motor is best. So far RPG seems to be the most reputable, and their prices for a block without sleeves with all the goodies inside are not that bad.

Similar situation, been watching several of these threads. Planning on at some point going to JTB from the paxton and want to make 1000ish whp, not putting a cage in the car but just stretching the limits of the street car (will do transmission as well). I might try to see if the stock motor lives, but don't want to break it so bad I have to replace other parts. Was considering the aluminator. I could probably spend more (5.2 and so on) but trying to find a logical stopping point on the money pit (though I know it never ends).

 

[Mghoward74]

Exactly I worried about the shit lol. Inlike that RPG has a warranty for a year or 12,000,miles

At this point, there’s really nothing to worry about. A lot of the trial & error has been done for you. It’s been proven the gen2 & 3 blocks are stout.

What are you trying to accomplish? Exactly what parts are on your list of things to buy? What have you bought already? Then you’ll have a better ideal of what block you need.

ive seen guys buy parts that don’t make any sense for their build…

 

[Mghoward74]

Similar situation, been watching several of these threads. Planning on at some point going to JTB from the paxton and want to make 1000ish whp, not putting a cage in the car but just stretching the limits of the street car (will do transmission as well). I might try to see if the stock motor lives, but don't want to break it so bad I have to replace other parts. Was considering the aluminator. I could probably spend more (5.2 and so on) but trying to find a logical stopping point on the money pit (though I know it never ends).

Do you have an idea on what it cost to make 1000rwhp?

When I was planning my build, I realistically was just hoping for a little bit more than what the Demon/Hellcat could put out. I ended up making a hair over what a demon makes…lol

 

[andrewtac]

Do you have an idea on what it cost to make 1000rwhp?

When I was planning my build, I realistically was just hoping for a little bit more than what the Demon/Hellcat could put out. I ended up making a hair over what a demon makes…lol

Sort of, I know what the JTB cost, how much the transmission will cost, how much the ID1300s will be (assuming the 1050s don't cut it), and a few more items. I've tried to do everything else in support of eventually getting at that level. The next major hurdles will be a bottom end that can take it along with the transmission. This isn't anything I plan on doing tomorrow, but trying to go that direction some day.

 

[robmustang201528]

At this point, there’s really nothing to worry about. A lot of the trial & error has been done for you. It’s been proven the gen2 & 3 blocks are stout.

What are you trying to accomplish? Exactly what parts are on your list of things to buy? What have you bought already? Then you’ll have a better ideal of what block you need.

ive seen guys buy parts that don’t make any sense for their build…

I want to make 900hp at the wheel without any issues with a little more room to grow. I don't want to run 900hp on the limit every time get on it. I need a fuel system, 331 gear in thr rear and a tire. Already have v7jt blower ,tq booster, Ben calimer stage 3 trans, aluminum driveshaft, gforce axles, Bmr links and cradle lockout, solid diff bushings. I just need a strong shortblock that I can beat the fuck out of, without having to worry about blowing up or cracking a ringland. I have low compression on 8 and 6.

 

[robmustang201528]

I want to make 900hp at the wheel without any issues with a little more room to grow. I don't want to run 900hp on the limit every time get on it. I need a fuel system, 331 gear in thr rear and a tire. Already have v7jt blower ,tq booster, Ben calimer stage 3 trans, aluminum driveshaft, gforce axles, Bmr links and cradle lockout, solid diff bushings. I just need a strong shortblock that I can beat the fuck out of, without having to worry about blowing up or cracking a ringland. I have low compression on 8 and 6.

I'm hoping my little ID 1000 injectors can make around 900 wheel..I've seen a guy on YouTube make a 1000 at the wheel with ID 1000's on E85 but he was maxxxxxed out lol

 

[Mghoward74]

I want to make 900hp at the wheel without any issues with a little more room to grow. I don't want to run 900hp on the limit every time get on it. I need a fuel system, 331 gear in thr rear and a tire. Already have v7jt blower ,tq booster, Ben calimer stage 3 trans, aluminum driveshaft, gforce axles, Bmr links and cradle lockout, solid diff bushings. I just need a strong shortblock that I can beat the fuck out of, without having to worry about blowing up or cracking a ringland. I have low compression on 8 and 6.

Clutch and fuel system will also be a factor. I myself would not use anything around 1000cc and less. I’d be looking at something a lot more and a return style, or DI.

Do you already have your gears in? Are they matched to the trans ratio?

I like the laundry list of parts. Get a long block. Then you swap the motor in and out, car won’t be down long.

mt-82 or tr6060 Ben calimer???

 

[shogun32]

I just don't want to do this shit twice man. This shit is expensive as hell and I'm trying to do right the first time.... on a budget

I think I see the problem here... You need more money.

I good machinist should be able to drill/ream a 3.5 or 4mm hole 100mm(?) deep either side of the apex of the 'V' slot and friction fit a rod of suitable material and thus construct a bridge to transform it into 2 non-connected legs and a central passage..

 

[robmustang201528]

Clutch and fuel system will also be a factor. I myself would not use anything around 1000cc and less. I’d be looking at something a lot more and a return style, or DI.

Do you already have your gears in? Are they matched to the trans ratio?

I like the laundry list of parts. Get a long block. Then you swap the motor in and out, car won’t be down long.

mt-82 or tr6060 Ben calimer???

Yes Ben calimer stage 3 rxt clutch mgw shifter. I have 3:73's. Switch gears too fast and 40 rolls... I blow the tires off.. (on a street tire).going to a 331 gear. That way I'll be in boost alot longer. Anything after 145 150.. I have to switch into 6 th gear. 60 to 140 is my race

 

[robmustang201528]

Clutch and fuel system will also be a factor. I myself would not use anything around 1000cc and less. I’d be looking at something a lot more and a return style, or DI.

Do you already have your gears in? Are they matched to the trans ratio?

I like the laundry list of parts. Get a long block. Then you swap the motor in and out, car won’t be down long.

mt-82 or tr6060 Ben calimer???

Di? What's a DI?

 

[turnswrench]

Di? What's a DI?

Direct Injection

 

[robmustang201528]

I think I see the problem here... You need more money.

I good machinist should be able to drill/ream a 3.5 or 4mm hole 100mm(?) deep either side of the apex of the 'V' slot and friction fit a rod of suitable material and thus construct a bridge to transform it into 2 non-connected legs and a central passage..

I don't even want to take the chance of machinist drilling into the block.

 

[olaosunt]

I've been going back and forth with who I want to build my motor. I looked at the aluminator gen 3 but I'm not a fan of 12.1 compression. It's to high for me. I drive my car alot and E85 is hard to come by out here, but I do like the price of the aluminator. They also have the 9.5 compression option but I feel like that's too low and I'll need to run alot of boost to make power. Plus they don't have a warranty on the shortblock. RPG cost a little more but for a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty... I think it may be worth the extra couple of grand plus I'll get to choose what compression I want (10.1) instead of 12 or 9. I was considering a engine shop around the area but a friend of mine told me he had a bad experience there and wouldn't recommend that shop to anyone. Anyone have a built RPG motor? How was the build, customer service? Overall experience? Thanks

I have had 2 . A sleeved Vodooo (currently being refreshed ) and a Gen 2 Voodoo short block build with cross plane crank .
Will is awesomene , honest and straight forward to deal with .
I could not be happier with his work .

 

[robmustang201528]

I have had 2 . A sleeved Vodooo (currently being refreshed ) and a Gen 2 Voodoo short block build with cross plane crank .
Will is awesomene , honest and straight forward to deal with .
I could not be happier with his work .

I talked to him briefly. I told him what I'm looking for and he said the gen 3 stage level 2 short block is the way to go.

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