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Replacing Sift Knob

Iconicgt

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I have one new in box for sale if interested. Itā€™s in the marketplace under interior. Think I listed it for $50.
 

NGOT8R

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Why both??? You'd only need one of them, if at all.
I used both because there was no way to hold the jam nut when tightening the knob down. I probably could have gotten away with just using loctite, but I didnā€™t want to take any chances on it coming loose. I know itā€™s on there good now.
 

boos550t

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The OE shift knob is super light.

I ended up buying a 675g raceseng ashiko and the shift feel has improved a lot. Before it felt like I was shifting through rocks.
 
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danno1

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I have one new in box for sale if interested. Itā€™s in the marketplace under interior. Think I listed it for $50.
Which knob is it?
 

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NGOT8R

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Thanks but looking for the FP knob
Do you know if the GT that youā€™re going to purchase already has an aftermarket shifter installed? If so, you might have to go with something like the Steeda knob. The reason being is, the fsctory shift lever has a tapered end ,whereas the Steeda (not sure about Barton or MGW shifters), isnā€™t tapered. While I was able to install my factory Bullitt knob back onto the Steeda shift lever, within a day, it came loose in m hand on a shift. I also noticed fine powder shavings around the shifter boot from where the threads in the knob had disintegrated. This is what led to me having to install a Steeda knob. Just FYI to,save you from potentially running into this issue.
 
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danno1

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Do you know if the GT that youā€™re going to purchase already has an aftermarket shifter installed? If so, you might have to go with something like the Steeda knob. The reason being is, the fsctory shift lever has a tapered end ,whereas the Steeda (not sure about Barton or MGW shifters), isnā€™t tapered. While I was able to install my factory Bullitt knob back onto the Steeda shift lever, within a day, it came loose in m hand on a shift. I also noticed fine powder shavings around the shifter boot from where the threads in the knob had disintegrated. This is what led to me having to install a Steeda knob. Just FYI to,save you from potentially running into this issue.
I don't think it's aftermarket. I would assume the knob would have been replaced with something else at that point.
 

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Elp_jc

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At least reasonable :). By the way, no way in hell I'd use red loctite for that application; blue at the most. But I'd give the locknut a try first, especially if you can sit the knob as low as possible (one turn above where it hits the lockout, like the CJ Pony guy did it).
 
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danno1

danno1

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At least reasonable :). By the way, no way in hell I'd use red loctite for that application; blue at the most. But I'd give the locknut a try first, especially if you can sit the knob as low as possible (one turn above where it hits the lockout, like the CJ Pony guy did it).
Just wondering. Why can't you just wrap a piece of tape right under the stock knob. This way it would mark where to stop turning the new knob?
 

NGOT8R

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I don't think it's aftermarket. I would assume the knob would have been replaced with something else at that point.
Not necessarily, as some owners like the factory knob. I would have kept mine had the threads not disintegrated. Youā€™ll be able to tell once you remove the shift knob whether the shaft of tapered or not.
 

WD Pro

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Me too :). 'Racing' doesn't really go with my car. Ha ha. CJ Pony has it for $68 shipped: https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-pe...-RlbMT4WJyKZFFM_TdEHBzyE3v5V0z_AaAn81EALw_wcB
I just want to know how much it weighs, to make sure it's at least as heavy as the Bullitt white knob. No word on that from CJ Pony, unfortunately. Does anybody know??? Thx.
Ref my comment further up this thread, hereā€™s the underside of the FP knob with the brass insert :

1616186226227.jpeg


That might help you make a weight guess compared to the all resin Bullitt knob :like:

Photo shamelessly pinched from @Iconicgt ā€˜s for sale advert :like:

WD :like:
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