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Replacing shortblock after ringland failure.

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Sorry if I’m posting in the wrong place. First timer. So I broke another cylinder #8 ringland. I’m out of warranty this time. So I’m gonna be ordering a new shortblock. But I’m just trying to make sure I don’t forget anything. Assuming with a broken ringland there may be debris through the engine oil passages, what all do I need to clean, replace or look out for while moving everything to the new block? Thanks for any tips/info!
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Well seeing as how you're getting a new shortblock, you should have no such issues. Obviously you'll need to get the heads looked at so a machine shop will clean those up. Maybe the pickup tube might need to be flushed but you might want to replace all that with new stuff anyway.
 

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Sorry if I’m posting in the wrong place. First timer. So I broke another cylinder #8 ringland. I’m out of warranty this time. So I’m gonna be ordering a new shortblock. But I’m just trying to make sure I don’t forget anything. Assuming with a broken ringland there may be debris through the engine oil passages, what all do I need to clean, replace or look out for while moving everything to the new block? Thanks for any tips/info!
How are you damaging #8 ringland? Are you still N/A, or forced induction (turbo/supercharger)?
 
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Well seeing as how you're getting a new shortblock, you should have no such issues. Obviously you'll need to get the heads looked at so a machine shop will clean those up. Maybe the pickup tube might need to be flushed but you might want to replace all that with new stuff anyway.
I plan on getting a new oil pump and pickup tube and all that. But I just didn’t know if anything could get debris into it like the oil cooler or anything I should worry about.
 

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I plan on getting a new oil pump and pickup tube and all that. But I just didn’t know if anything could get debris into it like the oil cooler or anything I should worry about.
Your response is confusing. In the OP you say you're getting a new shortblock. So that eliminates any contamination/debris concern. As far as the oil cooler goes, you'll just have to flush it but there may very well be no way to completely verify there isn't trash/debris in it. You can water flush it both directions and hopefully it gets most of anything that got in there.

This time around I recommend you have the rings gapped properly for whatever power (heat) you're generating and the type of use you're planning. A single drag pass is only a few seconds. The ring gaps for that are different than someone who's wanting to do 1/2 mile events or HPDE events or street (back to back to back rips) use. Most of the time ring lands fail when rings expand until they bind and then it's a cascade of carnage.
 

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How are you damaging #8 ringland? Are you still N/A, or forced induction (turbo/supercharger)?
Stock engine with about 4,000 miles on it.. procharger stage 2 with the pulley that comes with it 4.5”? 8 rib setup. Lethal dual pump return style on e85. Catless long tubes and catback. Tuned by the best. Didn’t get hot. Didn’t hot lap it. I’m not sure why it happened other than that it’s a stock engine and I was making a bunch of passes with it. Broke at about 600 feet out and I knew it right away. Shaking and smoking bad.
 

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Stock engine with about 4,000 miles on it.. procharger stage 2 with the pulley that comes with it 4.5”? 8 rib setup. Lethal dual pump return style on e85. Catless long tubes and catback. Tuned by the best. Didn’t get hot. Didn’t hot lap it. I’m not sure why it happened other than that it’s a stock engine and I was making a bunch of passes with it. Broke at about 600 feet out and I knew it right away. Shaking and smoking bad.

Who tuned it ? Lund?
 

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This time around I recommend you have the rings gapped properly for whatever power (heat) you're generating and the type of use you're planning.
This is solid advice.
 

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Stock engine with about 4,000 miles on it.. procharger stage 2 with the pulley that comes with it 4.5”? 8 rib setup. Lethal dual pump return style on e85. Catless long tubes and catback. Tuned by the best. Didn’t get hot. Didn’t hot lap it. I’m not sure why it happened other than that it’s a stock engine and I was making a bunch of passes with it. Broke at about 600 feet out and I knew it right away. Shaking and smoking bad.
You've gone through two engines in 4,000 miles.

Methinks getting a stronger engine, like a Ford Performance Aluminator engine, would be a wise investment. I do believe they make one specifically for boosted applications like yours.

If you just go with another stock block, you're going to wreck it again in short order.
 

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Sounds like you broke it good!!

Ring gap is the problem. The stock hyper pistons will take 900 hp EASY if the rings are gapped for boost.

OP -- yes, you still need to be concerned about metal debris in anything that sees oil. Further, when my motor let go, I had chunks of piston in my INTAKE MANIFOLD. It took me a few hours to clean that.

Other things you need to look at: All oil lines (supercharger feed and drain), oil cooler ( I cleaned my oil cooler by soaking it in gasoline for 30 min), all charge/boost pipes. You will also have metal debris in your exhaust, but I wouldn't worry about that I suppose.

The last thing you want is to ruin a new motor from missing some debris in the "clean up" process.
 

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Sounds like you broke it good!!

Ring gap is the problem. The stock hyper pistons will take 900 hp EASY if the rings are gapped for boost.

OP -- yes, you still need to be concerned about metal debris in anything that sees oil. Further, when my motor let go, I had chunks of piston in my INTAKE MANIFOLD. It took me a few hours to clean that.

Other things you need to look at: All oil lines (supercharger feed and drain), oil cooler ( I cleaned my oil cooler by soaking it in gasoline for 30 min), all charge/boost pipes. You will also have metal debris in your exhaust, but I wouldn't worry about that I suppose.

The last thing you want is to ruin a new motor from missing some debris in the "clean up" process.
Definitely agree, thoroughly clean all oil passages. As far as piston gaps, talking with the Shop/manufacture of the short block to make sure they gap your rings accordingly to your application of use. Good Luck with your build.
 
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Who tuned it ? Lund?
Who tuned it ? Lund?
You've gone through two engines in 4,000 miles.

Methinks getting a stronger engine, like a Ford Performance Aluminator engine, would be a wise investment. I do believe they make one specifically for boosted applications like yours.

If you just go with another stock block, you're going to wreck it again in short order.
No, around 4,000 miles on this new engine. Also, You can’t get a gen 2 shortblock anymore. This time even if I go with a stock one. It will be a gen 3. I’m not sure if they are stronger in the piston/ringland department or not. Also, I’m on the fence about selling it now.
 

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I’m not sure if they are stronger in the piston/ringland department or not. Also, I’m on the fence about selling it now.
If you get a short block from Ford you will need to disassemble it and file the rings for larger gap.
 

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You've gone through two engines in 4,000 miles.

Methinks getting a stronger engine, like a Ford Performance Aluminator engine, would be a wise investment. I do believe they make one specifically for boosted applications like yours.

If you just go with another stock block, you're going to wreck it again in short order.
a stock shortblock should last a long time

Stock engine with about 4,000 miles on it.. procharger stage 2 with the pulley that comes with it 4.5”? 8 rib setup. Lethal dual pump return style on e85. Catless long tubes and catback. Tuned by the best. Didn’t get hot. Didn’t hot lap it. I’m not sure why it happened other than that it’s a stock engine and I was making a bunch of passes with it. Broke at about 600 feet out and I knew it right away. Shaking and smoking bad.
stock engine should have warranty
 

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Your response is confusing. In the OP you say you're getting a new shortblock. So that eliminates any contamination/debris concern. As far as the oil cooler goes, you'll just have to flush it but there may very well be no way to completely verify there isn't trash/debris in it. You can water flush it both directions and hopefully it gets most of anything that got in there.

This time around I recommend you have the rings gapped properly for whatever power (heat) you're generating and the type of use you're planning. A single drag pass is only a few seconds. The ring gaps for that are different than someone who's wanting to do 1/2 mile events or HPDE events or street (back to back to back rips) use. Most of the time ring lands fail when rings expand until they bind and then it's a cascade of carnage.
100%. Factory .009-.012” ring gaps with 700+whp on gasoline don’t like long pulls or multiple back to back pulls on gasoline. Ask me how I know.
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