Rear Toe Bushings Install - different approach

[VictorH]

Was to have my Ford Performance Toe bearings installed at my Ford shop, but since I needed the car back same day they said they wouldn't have time. Their approach is to remove the whole lower rear arm. I'm sure someone has posted this approach but couldn't find it, so I thought I'd post in case this is helpful to anyone considering this install. (This will be a "work in progress so this is part 1).

!) Remove rear wheels
2) Removed outer rear toe adjuster, swing it down.

Now your ready. I purchased a 1 5/8 BiMetal hole saw which is just about right and doesn't risk any misadventures into the lower control arm.

Take your time and drill all the way through. Take about 10 minutes per side. Don't forget safety glasses as small metal particles will be flying around.

Tomorrow I'll use a hacksaw to cut the outer metal flange in a couple of spots and then hammer it out with a drift. Should be ready for install then.

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[NGOT8R]

That’s a good approach, but are the new bushings the same diameter as the factory sleeves? If so, perhaps a quick burn of the residual rubber with a handheld propane torch will clean it out and save you a little work.

 

[kz]

Install is what having a knuckle removed from the control arm makes much easier. Trying to press it in with knuckle on the car is incredibly frustrating experience. Good luck !

 

[kz]

That’s a good approach, but are the new bushings the same diameter as the factory sleeves? If so, perhaps a quick burn of the residual rubber with a handheld propane torch will clean it out and save you a little work.

That sleeve has to come out. No point in burning anything out.

 

[KellTrac]

Yep. It works. I've done it exactly like this a few times. Use a nice stud with some heavy duty washers and a thrust bearing top press in. I combine that with my 1/2" impact. Works flawlessly.

 

[bankyf]

Install is what having a knuckle removed from the control arm makes much easier. Trying to press it in with knuckle on the car is incredibly frustrating experience. Good luck !

That's an understatement.... I already had my drivers side control arm off and it probably took me 20 minutes to remove and replace. I decided to leave passenger side arm in and easily spent 2 hours before giving up for the night out of frustration. I have "tooled up" in the event I ever need to do it again though.

 

[VictorH]

Okay, Part 2 today. I'll admit that getting out the OEM bushing flange was more challenging and time consuming. I cut two slots but didn't go all the way through because I didn't want to risk damaging the lower arms.
Turns out a 36mm socket is perfect size for the OEM steel flange and will fit through the lower control arm hole. It definitely did NOT require hydraulic press level of force to remove, in the picture that's a ratcheting box-end wrench.

 

[NGOT8R]

The relief cuts may have helped you out a great deal. Glad to hear it was pretty easy for you. However, it seems like every RLCA is different. When I was doing mine, I used a brand new 12 ton press (and bent the press ram without the sleeve ever budging). I had to go to my buddy’s shop and we used his 20 ton press to remove the shell. His press also struggled to do the job, but won the fight in the end.

I’ve also heard of people using tools from Autozone with relative ease.

Here’s the carnage that was caused to my 12 ton press.

 

[VictorH]

WOW! Now that is crazy. Agree, the two cuts may have helped. Also, when I looked at the lower arm it's evident; the bushing was installed from the direction of front of car to the rear. It looks like it's a pretty tight interference fit as there's aluminum peeling into the back-side of the bushing flange. I removed the bushing the the direction opposite installation. Maybe that helped a little bit too.

 

[kz]

The relief cuts may have helped you out a great deal. Glad to hear it was pretty easy for you. However, it seems like every RLCA is different.

This is not RLCA bushing / bearing - it's the toe link bushing in the knuckle - which is quite a bit easier to press out than RLCA one.

With my RLCA bushings I gave up and went to machine shop who seemed to have no issues getting them out - asked what they've used - they've had some monster bushing removal tool (kinda like the Autozone ones).

 

[moffetts]

The toe bushing removal is comparatively easy, but the same "maul and cut" process works for both.

 

[VictorH]

is this possible? I'm measuring an interference fit of between .017 to .018". I'm not a machinist but that seems really huge to me. Is that why folks are needing 20 Ton presses to get the bushings in?
I'm measuring the Ford bushing at 1.930" and the lower control arm opening at 1.913. I'm thinking .008 to .010 would be nice, but maybe that's not enough.

 

[NGOT8R]

Good luck to you brother. I really do hope it’s not as difficult as the RLCA bearing to press in. There are some pics on here where pieces of the aluminum chipped out around the circumference of the bushing hole on the back side.

 

[KellTrac]

Freeze it for 4 hours. Make the accepting hole nice and smooth. Coat the receiving surface with silicone spray film. Goes right in...

 

[TeeLew]

Freeze it for 4 hours. Make the accepting hole nice and smooth. Coat the receiving surface with silicone spray film. Goes right in...

A little of the 'blue-wrench' on the upright to get it nice and warm would also help. Just make sure you don't get out of control and make it 'droopy' (which you'd be hard-pressed to do using propane).

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