Toe link bushings.

[ILStang]

Hi, curious if anyone here has installed these toe link bushings on the rear irs knuckle? Watched a few videos and I’m not certain I want to tackle these. They come with the Ford performance track handling kit, which I plan on purchasing.

If anyone has any first hand experience with these please chime in.

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[JJSSI]

Hi, curious if anyone here has installed these toe link bushings on the rear irs knuckle? Watched a few videos and I’m not certain I want to tackle these. They come with the Ford performance track handling kit, which I plan on purchasing.

If anyone has any first hand experience with these please chime in.

I started on installing mine today. Only got as far as removing the drivers side when I realized I didn't have any red loctite. I will finish up tomorrow. I used the Full Tilt bearing removal tool and a 2 ft breaker bar. The bearing came out with no problem.

 

[ajsfirehawk]

I think the key question is 'are these pressed in?" and 'do you have a press and know how to use it?"

 

[ILStang]

I think the key question is 'are these pressed in?" and 'do you have a press and know how to use it?"

They are pressed in. If I decide to try it, I can do the “rent a tool” deal at a local auto parts store. No prior experience with that part press.

 

[Cheo]

took me two days to remove and install, not an easy job on jack stands. Lots of trial and error finding the right size socket to remove and install them. Freeze the bearing the night before. I fitted a heavy duty torque wrench to the tool I used, it helped a lot!

 

[ILStang]

I started on installing mine today. Only got as far as removing the drivers side when I realized I didn't have any red loctite. I will finish up tomorrow. I used the Full Tilt bearing removal tool and a 2 ft breaker bar. The bearing came out with no problem.

Please post up comments on your final thoughts once you wrap it all up, much appreciated. Was this the tool you used?

 

[Austin1992]

I tried all night with what I had laying around, every combination of big sockets, c clamps, long bolts, gave up and called it a night. Bought a big ball joint press kit from harbor freight next day and had both sides done that afternoon. Not bad with the right tools.

 

[TeeLew]

I pulled the uprights off the car and used a real press (much easier). They're a pain in the dick to do, but it needs to be done, so...

 

[Robottrainer]

Hi, curious if anyone here has installed these toe link bushings on the rear irs knuckle? Watched a few videos and I’m not certain I want to tackle these. They come with the Ford performance track handling kit, which I plan on purchasing.

If anyone has any first hand experience with these please chime in.

I did mine but I had a 20 ton press. I removed the knuckle. Made life a whole lot easier. Took me 5 minutes once the knuckle was out.

 

[bnightstar]

I did mine but I had a 20 ton press. I removed the knuckle. Made life a whole lot easier. Took me 5 minutes once the knuckle was out.

this process makes me nervous for the wheel hubs though. As removing the knuckle remove the wheel hubs and we all know how hard is to get them torqued right. Also I'm guessing an alignment is needed after this bushings are installed.

 

[TeeLew]

this process makes me nervous for the wheel hubs though. As removing the knuckle remove the wheel hubs and we all know how hard is to get them torqued right. Also I'm guessing an alignment is needed after this bushings are installed.

You just knock the axle out. You don't have to remove the hubs. Similar to the brake caliper, you leave everthing attached to the chassis side and just disconnect it to remove the upright.

 

[Robottrainer]

this process makes me nervous for the wheel hubs though. As removing the knuckle remove the wheel hubs and we all know how hard is to get them torqued right. Also I'm guessing an alignment is needed after this bushings are installed.

I installed new Ford Perf axles at the same time. red loctite and 200 lb.ft of torque and they've not loosened off. For stock-red located and torque it to 150lb.ft. Kelly from Kelltrac had a write up about it

You just knock the axle out. You don't have to remove the hubs. Similar to the brake caliper, you leave everthing attached to the chassis side and just disconnect it to remove the upright.

Yes you don't. There are presses available to do it on the car. I found it easier, although more involved, to just pull the knuckle

 

[PC_GUARD]

When I took the rubber stock ones out, I scored them with a sawsall. I stopped short of cutting through, and then they about fell out. First side took an hr second side took about 35 minutes.

Before I sent the new ones in, I cleaned up the bore with a wire wheel and steel wool. I slathered up the red loctite (paint pen style) started them with a light deadshot hammer (making sure they were straight) and wound them in.


If you do the spherical on the LCA, those will need to come off. I bought a second set and did those before disassembling my car.

 

[Bossdog]

I did mine but I had a 20 ton press. I removed the knuckle. Made life a whole lot easier. Took me 5 minutes once the knuckle was out.

My plan is to remove the knuckle. I've never removed/replaced a hub from a axel. Any thing I should be aware of? Removing or reinstalling?

 

[Robottrainer]

this process makes me nervous for the wheel hubs though. As removing the knuckle remove the wheel hubs and we all know how hard is to get them torqued right. Also I'm guessing an alignment is needed after this bushings are installed.

Nope. Pretty straight forward. The spline should push right out of the hub by hand. You may need to use a pusher or just screw the nut on backwards and tap it with a plastic hammer. Make sure you remove the wheel sensor. 8mm socket. Wire up the axles so they dont droop. I dont think it matters but....Makes life easier when it's out of the car.

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