Rear toe link bushing install tips

[CXRs]

I'm knee deep in this job right now, and figured I'd share what I'm learning while failing to accomplish the OEM bearing removal.

The OEM bearing's outer sleeve external diameter is 1.927", and the ID is roughly 1.8".

The FRPP bearing sleeve's OD is the same 1.927", but the ID is about 1.55".

If you're looking for something to press this out with, I'd recommend a socket with a ~1.8" OD. Not all sockets are sized the same, so one 1 1/4 socket may not be the same as another.

Another item of note, the Harbor Freight/Pittsburgh 32mm deep impact socket is about 1.763" OD, which is just enough to punch out the rubber bushing and inner sleeve, but not enough to bite the outer sleeve and press it out. It will bind in there though.

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[CXRs]

Also, this job isn't an easy one without a full lift. If you can swing it, I'd suggest you have a shop do it if you aren't well equipped.

 

[Cordero1]

I'm about to tackle this job in a couple of weekends as well. Bought the icon bearing kit to see if it will get the job done. Also have a 1 1/4 socket just in case I need it. I will measure the od here in a bit to make sure. No lift here either, all jacks & elbow grease.

 

[SheepDog]

I've done it twice now. Save yourself the headache and get a Harbor Freight Shop press. Removing the knuckle isn't that hard, and you can have the bushing out/in in 5 minutes with a press

 

[MrMike]

If I had to do this again, I might just buy M-5970-M lol.

Another item of note, the Harbor Freight/Pittsburgh 32mm deep impact socket is about 1.763" OD, which is just enough to punch out the rubber bushing and inner sleeve, but not enough to bite the outer sleeve and press it out. It will bind in there though.

A Kobalt 36mm socket works.

 

[CXRs]

If I had to do this again, I might just buy M-5970-M lol.



A Kobalt 36mm socket works.

Sadly, I didn't have enough Ford point for these. But thank you, I'll swing by Lowe's and check.

I've done it twice now. Save yourself the headache and get a Harbor Freight Shop press. Removing the knuckle isn't that hard, and you can have the bushing out/in in 5 minutes with a press

I want a press, but I'm about to move a few states over and am trying to minimize the things I need to haul lol. I may do it, but I haven't pulled the knuckles on mine before and am not entirely sure if its gonna be as straightforward as pulling the brakes and axle nut. If it is that easy, I may go that route.

 

[SheepDog]

Sadly, I didn't have enough Ford point for these. But thank you, I'll swing by Lowe's and check.

I want a press, but I'm about to move a few states over and am trying to minimize the things I need to haul lol. I may do it, but I haven't pulled the knuckles on mine before and am not entirely sure if its gonna be as straightforward as pulling the brakes and axle nut. If it is that easy, I may go that route.

Well, if you do... here are the specs
No need to discard the bolts and nuts. They are not Torque to yield. Ford just wants you to do this because they have factory applied thread locker on them. I just clean the threads and apply Orange Locktite, and torque properly.

Also recommend installing jam nuts on the axle stubs if you are removing the hubs. Some people have issues with the axle nuts backing off. Torque the factory nut to spec, then apply blue or orange threadlocker to the end of the axle threads, and torque the jam nut to 100 lb/ft

https://www.mcmaster.com/97013A118/


The axle nut should be replaced

https://parts.levittownfordparts.co...Zo_G-tEP8TlF0ZkZrlyHuWxURbbL8ye5jCtVdnTCqTW-W

 

[MrMike]

Sadly, I didn't have enough Ford point for these. But thank you, I'll swing by Lowe's and check.

I want a press, but I'm about to move a few states over and am trying to minimize the things I need to haul lol. I may do it, but I haven't pulled the knuckles on mine before and am not entirely sure if its gonna be as straightforward as pulling the brakes and axle nut. If it is that easy, I may go that route.

I did not remove the control arm to do this. I used a standard ball joint press with the 36mm socket while the arm was still on the car.

 

[CXRs]

I did not remove the control arm to do this. I used a standard ball joint press with the 36mm socket while the arm was still on the car.

This is plan A. I'm getting the axle nuts and other items so I can R&R the hubs as plan B, but I'm hoping that I can do it on the car.

 

[Duece McCracken]

I also used a threaded ball joint press and got the job done easy peasey without removing the arm.

 

[RobZ71LM7]

I've done it twice now. Save yourself the headache and get a Harbor Freight Shop press. Removing the knuckle isn't that hard, and you can have the bushing out/in in 5 minutes with a press

Agreed! I just pulled both knuckles and it made the job a lot easier. I have a HF press that has paid for itself 10x.

 

[DefaultDriver1]

I used the ICON kit. It had every size for pressing in and out all the bushings/bearings I replaced. It was perfect. I highly recommend it.

 

[CXRs]

As others mentioned, a 36mm socket did the trick. Didn't have to pull the knuckles, and it took about 2hrs to r&r both with it.

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