Rear hub replacement recommendation

[FUN2RIDEFAST]

About three months ago I went through the rear wheel speed sensor fiasco where every light on the dash seems to light up. I replaced the LHR sensor, drove 50 miles, lights went out until yesterday. Now I've got the same issue with the same wheel, left rear. So codes show, besides LR speed sensor LR Tone wheel which is a small sprocket that the speed sensor gets it's signal from. So I'm thinking bad hub assembly/wheel bearing. I'll jack it up tomorrow and check for play. If it's that I'll change both sides. Any recommendations on who to buy the hubs from and possible pn? Standard stud length. Thanks in advance for the help.

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[1 old racer]

I have these and they are great
https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford...-hub-kit-w-arp-studs-1517-gt-ecoboost-v6.html

 

[CobaltFilly]

@FUN2RIDEFAST 1OldRacer is right, thats the one to go for.

 

[NightmareMoon]

@FUN2RIDEFAST 1OldRacer is right, thats the one to go for.

IDK why you'd want longer studs unless you NEED longer studs. Makes you run open lugs and they stick out unless you have an equally long spacer.

Those hubs are just Ford hubs... Nothing fancy except the studs.

So yea, get new Ford hubs from wherever will get them to your door the cheapest. Levittown Ford is always good for great prices (except the shipping).

 

[CobaltFilly]

IDK why you'd want longer studs unless you NEED longer studs. Makes you run open lugs and they stick out unless you have an equally long spacer.

Those hubs are just Ford hubs... Nothing fancy except the studs.

So yea, get new Ford hubs from wherever will get them to your door the cheapest. Levittown Ford is always good for great prices (except the shipping).

My bad didn’t read og post. Go for stocks unless you need the extended studs like moon said. I need to do my rears honestly the imbalance bothers my OCD lol.

 

[WildHorse]

I got some lifetime warranty ones through my work. Not sure who makes em.
But they exceed OE spec FWIW. So far, so good. 1/2 the cost of OE replacements.

When my dash 'lit up' there was zero play in the bearing. The thrust washer broke and took out the exciter ring. Even damaged the sensor a bit. Sensor was fine however.

 

[Biggsy]

As @NightmareMoon mentioned, OE hubs are fine. Your hubs may be fine and its the thrust washer. Some people dont put it back in when replacing the hubs. Dont have to worry about that issue again

 

[FUN2RIDEFAST]

IDK why you'd want longer studs unless you NEED longer studs. Makes you run open lugs and they stick out unless you have an equally long spacer.

Those hubs are just Ford hubs... Nothing fancy except the studs.

So yea, get new Ford hubs from wherever will get them to your door the cheapest. Levittown Ford is always good for great prices (except the shipping).

I don't need longer studs. Sorry if I wasn't clear about that. I just ordered a pair of hubsfrom American Muscle. Might as well do both at the same time.

 

[WItoTX]

OP mustang is my go to. One of the best vendors I've used, always helpful, always going above and beyond for customer service.

 

[Zrussian13]

Even if there isn't any play in the hub, it's probably still bad. Mine had no play but replacing the left rear fixed my christmas tree dash

 

[FUN2RIDEFAST]

Even if there isn't any play in the hub, it's probably still bad. Mine had no play but replacing the left rear fixed my christmas tree dash

That's my thinking. Probably should replace the axle nuts too.

 

[kz]

About three months ago I went through the rear wheel speed sensor fiasco where every light on the dash seems to light up. I replaced the LHR sensor, drove 50 miles, lights went out until yesterday. Now I've got the same issue with the same wheel, left rear. So codes show, besides LR speed sensor LR Tone wheel which is a small sprocket that the speed sensor gets it's signal from. So I'm thinking bad hub assembly/wheel bearing. I'll jack it up tomorrow and check for play. If it's that I'll change both sides. Any recommendations on who to buy the hubs from and possible pn? Standard stud length. Thanks in advance for the help.

I just bought two spares, thrust washers and nuts from Levittown just to have them in my toolbox.

I didn't think people still shop at American Muscle - they're the worst store among all the terrible ones.
I ran long studs but if you don't need them (and I really didn't in the rear), it's just a waste of money. Make sure you order open ended lugs because you will need them - standard nuts will bottom out at the end of the studs and not the wheel.

 

[FUN2RIDEFAST]

I just bought two spares, thrust washers and nuts from Levittown just to have them in my toolbox.

I didn't think people still shop at American Muscle - they're the worst store among all the terrible ones.
I ran long studs but if you don't need them (and I really didn't in the rear), it's just a waste of money. Make sure you order open ended lugs because you will need them - standard nuts will bottom out at the end of the studs and not the wheel.

Thanks. I've never had a problem with American Muscle or CJ. Now Lethal Performance is a whole other story.

 

[Jerryinpa]

Thanks. I've never had a problem with American Muscle or CJ. Now Lethal Performance is a whole other story.

Hi,

When I bought my 2022 gt the salesman said that the ford hubs don't last long, he said get Timken hubs.
He also said if you dont replace the hubs in time it'll wipe out your axle half shafts.
On rockauto Timken is marked as a favorites, $62 plus tax n shipping.

I came across Timken when I used to work on tracking optical telescopes, they make high quality bearings.

Here's a link.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...89,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub,1636

I bought axel nuts n hub bolts also, they're one time use items. I'm waiting for winter to do the work.

Thanks, Jerry

 

[Eyesac]

I don't think there's anything wrong with any of the hubs available (OE/Timken or Moog, etc). The issue is the nut backing off IMO. Pick one and make sure it's torqued right and locktite'd.

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