QuickJack Question and Decision help

[GTP]

Originally I bought both sizes as per the video. Once I started messing with things I realized that four 1" balls mounted as shown was easier since I could fine tune the clearance height at both ends and not have to come up with the ideal thickness spacer plate.

My metric tap set is in better condition than my SAE so I chose M4 x 10mm button head Phillips screws. That gave a little extra room in the holes and the head size did not hit the curved part of the roller base.

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[Prodigal]

Originally I bought both sizes as per the video. Once I started messing with things I realized that four 1" balls mounted as shown was easier since I could fine tune the clearance height at both ends and not have to come up with the ideal thickness spacer plate.

My metric tap set is in better condition than my SAE so I chose M4 x 10mm button head Phillips screws. That gave a little extra room in the holes and the head size did not hit the curved part of the roller base.

No concern drilling holes into a structural piece? I like the mod but concerned drilling into the supports to mount the roller. If the Jack ever failed Qj woukd most assuredly blame the holes drilled.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Originally I bought both sizes as per the video. Once I started messing with things I realized that four 1" balls mounted as shown was easier since I could fine tune the clearance height at both ends and not have to come up with the ideal thickness spacer plate.

My metric tap set is in better condition than my SAE so I chose M4 x 10mm button head Phillips screws. That gave a little extra room in the holes and the head size did not hit the curved part of the roller base.

That's what I was hoping to hear. Thanks!

 

[Rapid Red]

Right. The instructions even say to hold the down button for an extra five seconds.

Curiously my right side jack is harder to couple than the left.

So go 10 not going to hurt a thing or whatever, residual pressure is your enemy

 

[GTP]

No concern drilling holes into a structural piece? I like the mod but concerned drilling into the supports to mount the roller. If the Jack ever failed Qj woukd most assuredly blame the holes drilled.

The thought crossed my mind.
I don't know what typically fails on a Quickjack. I would guess cylinders or pump before frame components. They get pump claims due to contaminated fluid. I wipe clean my connect ends often and then keep them capped.

M4 requires only a 1/8" drill bit. So no, I'm not worried about structural compromise.

The trickiest part was finding the optimal locations for the rollers. I will evaluate mine once again and then suggest where to locate them for others.

 

[Hahny]

I can't decide if I should get the 5000TL on sale at costco (1399) or the 5000TLX? I like to have extra lenght but can't beat the $1399

How are you liking the 5000TL?

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

How are you liking the 5000TL?

I have only used it couple times but so far its amazing I like how high it lifts the car. No complains. Does not leak at all that teflon tape did the trick nicely.

 

[Rapid Red]

How are you liking the 5000TL?

My $0.02 get the 5000TLX the higher ground clearance it key.

Can see the difference
First shot 5000LX

Note the distance of the white cabinet door & roof
line .
This is the 5000TLX worth every red cent.

A friendly, tip the pneumatic rams do and will leak down, check before using. I removed the Schrader valve & housing, Teflon taped the threads, soap checked for leaks.

None found, 3 months later rams needed a charge.

Why for & what is the purpose of the rams? They are there to fully collapse the jacks. After the car is resting on the tires.

 

[RagmopInKona]

My $0.02 get the 5000TLX the higher ground clearance it key.

Can see the difference
First shot 5000LX

Note the distance of the white cabinet door & roof
line .
This is the 5000TLX worth every red cent.

A friendly, tip the pneumatic rams do and will leak down, check before using. I removed the Schrader valve & housing, Teflon taped the threads, soap checked for leaks.

None found, 3 months later rams needed a charge.

Why for & what is the purpose of the rams? They are there to fully collapse the jacks. After the car is resting on the tires.

What locks them in place in the up point?

 

[shogun32]

There are detents in the track that the diagonal arms have a matching slot. Once you raise it past the detent you lower it till the lock engages.

The oil lines also have a valve that closes by default so it will remain pressurized. Not that it should be relied upon in any sense of the word.

 

[mcky2011]

My $0.02 get the 5000TLX the higher ground clearance it key.

Can see the difference
First shot 5000LX

Note the distance of the white cabinet door & roof
line .
This is the 5000TLX worth every red cent.

A friendly, tip the pneumatic rams do and will leak down, check before using. I removed the Schrader valve & housing, Teflon taped the threads, soap checked for leaks.

None found, 3 months later rams needed a charge.

Why for & what is the purpose of the rams? They are there to fully collapse the jacks. After the car is resting on the tires.

That TLX looks awesome.

 

[EFI]

My $0.02 get the 5000TLX the higher ground clearance it key.

Can see the difference
First shot 5000LX

Note the distance of the white cabinet door & roof
line .
This is the 5000TLX worth every red cent.

Where is the difference? The only thing different between the 5000TL and 5000TLX is the wider lift point spread.

It has the same lowered height (3"), has the same max lifting height (24"), baseically every spec is the same except for lift point spread.

 

[tosha]

My $0.02 get the 5000TLX the higher ground clearance it key.

Can see the difference
First shot 5000LX

Note the distance of the white cabinet door & roof
line .
This is the 5000TLX worth every red cent.

A friendly, tip the pneumatic rams do and will leak down, check before using. I removed the Schrader valve & housing, Teflon taped the threads, soap checked for leaks.

None found, 3 months later rams needed a charge.

Why for & what is the purpose of the rams? They are there to fully collapse the jacks. After the car is resting on the tires.

TL based models all the way. I have gotten myself 7000TL model just because this is what Costco Canada carries at good price, and it works great with Steeda full length jacking rails. but if I had better selection, TLX would be my go-to for the mustang. Either TL* option gives great ground clearance for comfortable work under the car. I wouldn't want less.

 

[tosha]

Where is the difference? The only thing different between the 5000TL and 5000TLX is the wider lift point spread.

It has the same lowered height (3"), has the same max lifting height (24"), baseically every spec is the same except for lift point spread.

The difference is between EL and TL(X) in terms of height. EL are older models.

Both TL and TLX are fine for mustang. Better spread just makes it more universal for other cars. And selection between 5000 and 7000 lb capacity is another dimension to consider. If you have a mustang and a Model X Or Silverado, go with 7000TLX.))) otherwise, choose based on your needs.

Just a word of caution, if you have lowered suspension and 305/30/19 wheels, 7000 model won't fit under front part just by few mm. Easy solution is to drive over a 2x6 or get low profile rubber blocks from quickjack. 5000 models should be fine in theory.

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

5000TL is more than enough of a lift on the Mustang. It was a great deal at costco couldnt pass it up. I throw some Heavy duty 6ton high quality US Jack stands under it as well but the Quickjack is very secure either way.

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