PMAS vs Gen3 airbox

[Unbridled5.0]

In the sn95 days, I remember they were using air straighteners (fine mesh metal screens) directly in front of the maf to clean up turbulence caused by drawing air in at a 90° angle from the fenderwell. Lots of people removed those screens when they went with aftermarket cold/ram air intakes. Some of those people would coast in neutral after a pull and stall out at speed. No power steering, brakes...Dangerous.

Removing jo bidumbs tampon from the air box is one thing, but taking that straightener out is another.

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[Nitrofish]

I’m not trying to debate open vs closed intakes I ran a drop in on my gen 1 and was happy with that I’m just saying I think 22-23 benefits from either modifying the intake or getting a new one and as above mentioned you need to tune or car won’t idle if you removed this screening. it’s more of a plastic mold of crap when I pulled it out and was looking at it seems like a restriction to me idk how it could be good for it making the air divert through all that.

 

[NGOT8R]

When my car was dyno’d with PMAS, the hood was closed. I wanted it closed to simulate real world conditions. The car made 469 rwhp/434 rwtq in that configuration. This was with One Ethanol S in the tank.

 

[NGOT8R]

I should also add that I was pleasantly surprised with the outcome, but as I mentioned before, I had to run a PMAS for nitrous, otherwise I would have just stayed with the factory GT350 CAI system, or maybe even added a closed air box with a good filter.

 

[NightmareMoon]

https://performancemrp.com/c-1389190-air-intake-components-air-straightener-screen.html

There’s a member here who has installed a straightener into the Steeda closed lid and has no MAF transfer function issues.

yeah that was me. Really cleaned up the MAF signal. Idled poorly and the tuner didnt want to touch it based off the MAF signal noise before the mesh screen, and after the straightener mod it ran and idled smooth like stock. Worked shockingly well.

I’d try to remember to check my hackjob straightener every 3 or 6 months to make sure it wasnt in danger of getting sucked into the intake or cracking apart. It held together well and I continued to run that intake that way until the motor swap.

 

[Pistol_91]

yeah that was me. Really cleaned up the MAF signal. Idled poorly and the tuner didnt want to touch it based off the MAF signal noise before the mesh screen, and after the straightener mod it ran and idled smooth like stock. Worked shockingly well.

I’d try to remember to check my hackjob straightener every 3 or 6 months to make sure it wasnt in danger of getting sucked into the intake or cracking apart. It held together well and I continued to run that intake that way until the motor swap.

Have any pictures of it? Or the material you used for it?

 

[GregO]

yeah that was me. Really cleaned up the MAF signal. Idled poorly and the tuner didnt want to touch it based off the MAF signal noise before the mesh screen, and after the straightener mod it ran and idled smooth like stock. Worked shockingly well.

I’d try to remember to check my hackjob straightener every 3 or 6 months to make sure it wasnt in danger of getting sucked into the intake or cracking apart. It held together well and I continued to run that intake that way until the motor swap.

I was referring to member Deanm11 but it’s great to hear about your positive results as well.

 

[Gen3javi]

ive done this test myself i also tested the steeda closed airbox im doing my datlogging with a ngauge and datazap and im tuned by lund e85 headers all seats out drag pack the stock airbox had the highest maf/lb the only way i see the pmas working very efficently is at temps under 60F

 

[NightmareMoon]

Have any pictures of it? Or the material you used for it?

I'll try to find a picture tomorrow, but I really wouldn't recommend doing what I did. Neither my choice of material (aluminum wire mesh window screen), or my method of attachment (mostly gorilla tape).

My worry was aluminum might fatigue and crack more easily than some other materials but it was a fine grain screen (for airflow straightening purposes) and wasn't going to inhibit airflow much at all, plus it was in stock that day at Lowes. Actually it held up pretty well, for the 25k miles. with one cautionary mesh rebuild after the about the first year.

In my defense, this started as an experiment to see if a kind of screen would do the needed trick for MAF quality. It worked well enough I just got lazy and never bothered to re-engineer a better more durable permanent solution.

 

[WD Pro]

Bank 1 and 2 are all we have in the coyote.

It will show long and short term, you should also have a lbs per min channel.

Thank you.

I was kind of hoping it would combine bank 1 & 2 to give an overall value, as the graph function will only record four values, so I can’t capture short / long & 1 / 2, along with lb/min on the same plot.

I have now found I can split the graph though :

So I will have to see how useful that is once it starts to populate data.

Here is a short test from when I started to mess around with it the other night :

I’m not sure I trust the calculated value in purple … lol

WD

 

[WildHorse]

Much better trims with the gen3 box as well. No compromises like other aftermarket CAI's.

 

[GregO]

Much better trims with the gen3 box as well. No compromises like other aftermarket CAI's.

Now a persons got to be wondering how the 2022+ OEM lid performs with the OEM laminar flow honeycomb insert ?

 

[NGOT8R]

Now a persons got to be wondering how the 2022+ OEM lid performs with the OEM laminar flow honeycomb insert ?

I’m waiting for someone to drill and mount a high quality/high speed fan to their air box lid to see what kind of gains that might net them.

 

[K4fxd]

I’m waiting for someone to drill and mount a high quality/high speed fan to their air box lid to see what kind of gains that might net them.

Here you go
https://www.amazon.com/Supercharger...id=2475811882066429911-B0C2HWH3QN-&hvexpln=73

 

[WildHorse]

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